Thanks, unfortunately I can’t order from taobao and the rest (mouser, digikey) have too high shipping costs for a sub 50 cent item.
What country do you live in? Maybe you can find a member that’s buying something from one of those places and have them buy one and ship it to you.
Have you tried looking on eBay?
(edit) Hmm… no results there, sorry…
Yes, tried everything else I could think of (and a desperate search on google)
XPL HI V3-3C and Texas Avenger driver now inside
Narsil with full brightness when forward switch connects battery
a few days back I used my reverse lens adapter to make some nice makros
with a powerful flashlight light I got to F=18 16-35mm lens reversed on crop 1.6 DSLR
Woah, you guy have a bad luck, i guess
Basically, taobao has everything( i just type name and ta dah)
Made another Texas Avenger driver and reflo 3 Nichia leds from a Kaidomain triple to a Noctigon XP20 triple.
Before heating up. I like to see the small solder balls in the paste through microscope Fun to watch them melting together.
Anyone familiar with this driver? I took it out of the TrustFire ST-80 that is running SST-50 led. Goal is to change it to one mode only but I did not expected to bi so complicated.
Other part of the driver (not shown) has 2 mosfets K3638, sense resistors and a coil on it…
Trustfire makes their own drivers AFAIK, and they usually look complicated. I hope someone can help you (I can’t)
If it's got a sense resitor and a coil it sure sounds like a buck. Tow fets sounds like a synchronous buck, which is kind of cool if that's really the case. I'd be looking for an amp attached to the sense resistor (if it's not built into the buck controller) and then some circuit biasing the amp output. That would be the thing to hijack, the biasing circuit. But it might not work that way.
I made two PD68 lighted tailcap board for my future builds. One will be in the Jaxman E2L triple host. The other maybe in VG10 triple.
Did some lye treatment…
Here I added some better/more pics, maybe someone will be able to spot solution before I release the magic smoke that lives inside the driver
Interesting thing: on the eeprom chip there are 2 pins soldered together (modes were: hi-low-blinky-blinky-sos) when I removed bridge modes were: hi-mid-low-strobe-sos…
Some parts arrived from MtnE yesterday. Bought my first E-SW driver and installd it today. Seems to be some issues with the modes. Ordered it with ML+6 and there are only 5 modes after ML. There is an extra dead Off spot as I need to hit the SW 2X to get it into ML. Anyway the driver is installed and otherwise working and it’s not coming back out.
The second Solarstorm K2 has the E-SW Fet+1 driver piggybacked on the gutted original driver board. Yeah it ended up as a Triple XP-L HI V2 3C. Used a copper X6 spacer and 2 XP32 under the emitter as spacers and All stacked and soldered together.
Some pics of the driver install.
Bypassed tail Spring
It is necessary to turn on the strobe. And with a multimeter to look for where the signal is coming from. It is necessary to find a EN signal that allows the DC-DC inverter to work.
I would suggest to add some silicone for heat transfer from the new driver to the old one.
Thanks and appreciated.
Does not work as it should so if it burns out I will make sure to fully test the replacement and thermal silicone that one.
fixed the photo in my previous post. click for some mediocre cellphone beamshots.