What did you mod today?

Nice mods Jensen567. Your fiance is a lucky girl.
Thanks for the tips and pictures Tom. They will come in handy.

Thanks for explaining the pine board method Tom E. If I run across this issue, I would stick the boards into a vice since I only have 1 c-clamp. Those springs do look pretty cool despite the loss of current.

How did you mad it fit? Did you reduced the diameter a bit or did you only soldered it to the pill?
Hoy did you do it on the convoy C8? There is only room for 17mm driver, isn’t it?

I was sceptical about this idea, but he done it well. He bored driver place and underdriver place.

Yes, for the S2+ pills I bored out the driver pocket to fit the 20mm board, then soldered it to the pill. For the C8 I was lucky that the stock retaining ring is almost 20mm, so I expanded the pocket, then shaved the edges of the driver until it just cleared so I could use the retaining ring. If that didn’t work it would have been harder, since I can’t just solder it to aluminum.

This is my first mod today on a Convoy L6 today.

Decided to follow through with my second mod on my F13 immediately after.

Cree XP-L HI V3 1B led on a Noctigon XP32 mcpcb with an MTN 22mm FET driver with a copper spacer and optics from kiriba-ru.
Used Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste on the mcpcb and glued the spacer with some heatsink plaster. :weary:

It’s not a clean professional work and my photos need improving too.
But both the flashlight works and I am really happy.
And I will get better at my soldering skills and hopefully will improve with time.

Looks good to me! Everyone has to start somewhere with soldering, and the best way to get better is just to keep doing it.

2s emitters with 3s cells? Nice. I bet it pulls 45A or so.

Yep 2s emitters with 3s cells. I was a little hesitant to do it this way so I started with longer wires 12 gauge I think. Crossed my fingers and tested it first without the tailcap. Nothing fried so I took it out and played with it. Not a problem at all and ran it down to where the batteries needed charging. Last night I shortened half the wires and no problem, then I shortened them all down to really short and still fine. I might try 10 gauge wires next and see how that goes. Although I think I might already be where the batteries are maxing themselves out. The batteries were getting hot already so it’s probably about where it’s getting iffy to push it more. It’s interesting for sure. The high is about as bright as any of the super flooders I’ve made in the past. Then the Turbo kicks it up to whole other level.

I’ve got an 18xXML / 5x32650 light that I might try next. Maybe see what five batteries into 9 sets of 2x XHP-50’s does. I’d have to sell some more stuff to finance it though. So it might be a while.

Dedomed a 219C 4000K today, using “wasbenzine”. (gas dedome)
Results are pretty satisfactory: Dome popped of when I lifted the whole thing pincing the dome, no phosphor was taken and the die is silicone free!
Not the cleanest around the die, but hey, who cares? :stuck_out_tongue:
Tint seems to have gone warmer, but not by a lot and not as yellow
Did I say this was my first dedome? :smiley:

(sorry for awful cellphone pic)

Nice work Jensen!
That driver is seriously interesting, your post made me think i have to buy it and mod something which is held impossible before

Today I added green and cool white mixed lighted tailcap to my S41

And got a really used Nitecore P12 for repair. It has broken solderswhich peeled off the pads, some water ingress signs, broken capacitor, so it’s pretty much dead. It was really hard to loosen the glued bezel. It has some scratches before but when the pipe wrench cutted through the bike inner tube It made some big marks.
So they will buy a new one and I got the whole light to do with it what I want. Maybe I try to resurrect the driver. But if not I will put in something with Narsil maybe.

Good job on the dedome doubleone44!

fixed up an eveready “junior captain” 1aa for a neighbor kid.
since i didnt have any #112 bulbs and the family already uses 18650 stuff i put a 5mm ebay hi cri and 4.7 ohm resistor in an empty base.
got the switch stuff cleaned up and working right and dropped the conversion bulb and a 14500 li-ion in it.
probably 10x the light of the original bulb and 100% reversible.
light was his grandfathers and one of the few surviving items he has from him.
another restomod.

Modded some more pipes

A JAXMAN E2L. This is my first triple flashlight and in the end I couldn’t be more impressed. I knew I had to make the 20mm Nichia 80+ CRI LED MCPCB a bit smaller and bore out the shelf hole for the 22 AWG wires, but my challenge was with the BLF double spring lighted switch that I got from Banggood. When I put everything together, the Mountain Electronics FET + 7135 driver with Bistro turned into next mode memory. I then experimented with different bleeder resistors and found the proper ohms that worked for the flashlight. I also added solder to the outer ring of the driver since it was too thin to be secured by the retaining ring. In turbo the flashlight is crazy bright and heats up very fast, which is exactly what I was shooting for! The moonlight mode is also great.

Some more “German” details and pics: Skyray King SRK mit 3 x Nichia 144A sm453 R9050 | Taschenlampen Forum

And translatet from google: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=de&tl=en&js=y&prev=\_t&hl=de&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.taschenlampen-forum.de%2Fthreads%2Fskyray-king-srk-mit-3-x-nichia-144a-sm453-r9050.57036%2F&edit-text=&act=url

Nice Jensen, that little green light with the big MT-G2 is the kind of style that drew me into this in the first place. I need to build an AC headboard light with like 3 to 5 of these… the colored Convoy heads work beautifully and a mix of spot and wide optiocs should do to make it easy for some late night reading or add to a little more boradly lit up fun, all run off a wall wart. Thanks for sparking some ideas, enjoy your lights…

I made a PVC pipe integrating tube. It is almost done. I call it Lumensnake :slight_smile:
I need some foam ringr around lights. Some platform to fix it on. And install the ring around the sensor.

All pictures here

Nice PVC tube. I’ve been thinking about making an integrating system to replace my ceiling bounce tests. That tube geometry seems like it would work well for integrating different beam shapes.