What did you mod today?

Lightbringer · 2019-04-06T18:56:46.000Z

Aha, so holes for the wires and holes for the screws don’t all line up… Gotcha.

I only got a micro, so can’t say how the mini’s put together, but if the reflector pushes down hard enough on the pcb, regular thermal goop like AS5 should work fine. The reflector (and presumably centering spacer?) should keep it lined up and centered. It’ll “float” and self-center via the reflector.

I had that issue with C8s before.

Lexel · 2019-04-06T22:44:22.000Z

Th558:

Lightbringer:

Hm? Whaddya mean “don’t line up”?

Well for some reason the screw cutouts on my gtmini stock pcb are spaced equally whereas the ones on L4Ps 20mm 3030 board are closer together so there no way to screw the board in.
Ignore the super bad de-soldering job.

still its always risky with the LED holes within the MCPCB diameter
if it rotates as well it will easily cut through the wire insulation, had that often enough in the past
best is to drill fitting holes and thread them
or
use a grinding tool or file to remove material from MCPCB
if you work on MCPCB always make sure if you are finished the bottom is flat!

Henk4U2 · 2019-04-06T21:26:22.000Z

Lexel:

Th558:

Lightbringer:

Hm? Whaddya mean “don’t line up”?

Well for some reason the screw cutouts on my gtmini stock pcb are spaced equally whereas the ones on L4Ps 20mm 3030 board are closer together so there no way to screw the board in.
Ignore the super bad de-soldering job.

still its always risky with the LED holes within the MCPCB diameter
if it rotates as well it will easily cut through the wire insulation, had that often enough in the past
best is to drill fitting holes and thread them
or
use a grinding tool or file to remove material from MCPCB
if you work on MCPCB always make sure if you are finished the bottom is flat!

Because axial fixation is done by bezel/reflector/centering ring, one screw should be enough to prevent the MCPCB from rotating and shearing off the leads. IMHO there will always be one cutout that fits. Just don’t overtighten the screw to keep the MCPCB flat. Easy does it.

DB_Custom · 2019-04-06T22:42:51.000Z

Kawi, I have that but I don’t think it will supply enough power to the 50.2… so… I modded the TK61 entirely.

I wiped the factory driver , installed an FET+1 with ramping and reversing 7 level firmware, then modified the carrier for 4P. With Efest 3500mAh cells it does 4490 lumens on level 7.

This is with my light box diffused and calibrated per Maukka. May be a little low but my meter shows actual lumens now with no multiplier so it’s pretty cool not having to mess with the math. lol

jasontheguitarist · 2019-04-06T22:51:59.000Z

I did a simple driver swap on a Thorfire TG06S. I decided I wasn’t crazy about it always starting on high, so I swapped in a Nanjg 101 AK-A1 with guppydrv. It’s 14500 only now but I like the programmable firmware. The only issue is moonlight doesn’t work. It’s a dead setting, all the others work fine though. I don’t know if the driver is defective or if moonlight is just finicky.

contactcr · 2019-04-07T18:54:17.000Z

E07 mod time!

I took my trusty Work Sharp w/ Blade Grinder attachment and beveled the edge and took just a hair off the total diameter from a 90 degree angle then used some wet 2500 sandpaper to finish the bottom

Old emitters removed, board cleaned up. LH351D 3000K 90CRI + LH351D 5000K 90CRI set aside

She works! The long lines on either side of the emitter pad are negative

My what nice legs you have

One more test before we mess with aux board. The LED wires are so hard with solder and cut exactly to length, this requires some finesse tweezer action

Aux connected without much trouble, too bad this color combo isn’t available anymore

All back together

Measurements:

OUT: 6,118 lm at 0s (Molicel P42A 21700)
CCT: 4143K
CRI: 92 Ra 64 R9

djozz · 2019-04-07T19:17:28.000Z

Nice version, contactcr! And you ended up only very slightly above the BBL. At what current was the tint measurement?

And are you happy with the result?

contactcr · 2019-04-07T19:32:30.000Z

The previous one was turbo using a Samsung 50E

This is 3x7135 default mode when you screw on cap. I had anywhere from .0014 to .0019 in this mode

The tint shift from SST-20’s really bothers me so this is a nice result in my opinion. Essentially the same results across the entire output range. The hot spot is much wider now so no more “pointing” with the light. Gotta adjust your use case I suppose. The light heats up the body nicely now so the MCPCB was a success as well.

bilakos10 · 2019-04-07T19:48:39.000Z

I legoed my S43 (modded with LHD351D) with an SS bezel and body from an S42S and I think it came out pretty dope.
I also sanded the bezel in order to remove the old S42 logo.

djozz · 2019-04-07T22:20:14.000Z

I’m not fond of the S43, but I must admit that you make it look much better!

djozz · 2019-04-07T22:37:08.000Z

A colourful lighted tail for my Supfire S1 EDC with 4000K LuxeonV led and BLF-A6 driver. Looks better in reality, the camera does not capture 470nm, 500nm and 660nm even close to correct.

470 Ohm bleeder on the driver

470 nm led + 22K resistor
500 nm led + 33K resistor
600 nm led + 6.8K resistor
625 nm led + 12K resistor
660 nm led + 6.8K resistor
PCpink led + 22K resistor

The tail draws 0.86 mA current, a 700mAh 16340 battery will be drained in about a month. Because I carry and use it every day, the battery is recharged way sooner than that.

MtnDon · 2019-04-07T22:50:59.000Z

The picture overfloweth…
…that can be rectified

BlueSwordM · 2019-04-07T23:00:17.000Z

Thank you. I usually resize images, but didn’t do it this time.

Some flash copper solution that I managed to make myself, a zincate solution.
I’m now ready to copper plate lights

Firelight2 · 2019-04-08T08:33:46.000Z

Swapped the Oslon white flat I had in my Jetbeam RRT-01 2019 for an XPL HI 5000k. The beam isn’t as throwy, but I like the better tint, extra lumens, and spill.

Also swapped the LEDs in my Jetbeam TCR-01 triple for 3 Oslon flat whites. GAAAAAH…… what an ugly beam!!!

Oslon flats are nice emitters for max throw at low current, but clearly they don’t belong in a small triple.

CRX · 2019-04-08T08:51:53.000Z

What optic?
I just put a Nichia 219B in a TC-R1.

Geuzzz · 2019-04-08T09:30:45.000Z

CRX:

What optic?
I just put a Nichia 219B in a TC-R1.

Super nice light, looks much better than the newer jetbeam imo.

DB_Custom · 2019-04-08T12:51:29.000Z

All it needs now is an accompanying beam shot…

DB_Custom · 2019-04-08T12:52:04.000Z

Firelight, I was thinking about putting 7 White Flats in an E07, bad idea?

oweban · 2019-04-08T13:40:05.000Z

Killed a Wowtac A2S (dogfarts edition) today. Was getting flickering on turbo so went to re-soled wires with something thicker, but it’s just too damn fiddly and I don’t have silicone coated wire. And now I’ve lifted a trace from the driver board. Still works when put together outside the case, but is a nightmare to get back in and running,

Wonder if Wowtac will sell a driver board, or if I’m SOL

contactcr · 2019-04-08T13:57:08.000Z

Pre-tin new wires and use a tiny amount of flux paste on the driver and wire end. I don’t always do this but anytime I feel like the wire might not want to cooperate or i have a small spot to work with this seems to get the job done twice as fast without overheating any tiny components.