What did you mod today?

Wow nice build! You make the spacer?

Super nice!

I am contemplating a similar build with the M21A.

Beam shots??

Stunning!
You give me idea for my unused zippo :+1:

Is that a switch (the cylinder shaped stuff)?
I’m thinking about using reed (magnetic) switch for my future build.

Yes .
Yes, but only for myself, it’s just a hobby …
I’m not going to make money on it.

Yes it has three switches, you can see it working in the linked thread :+1:

I used a Sanrenmu knife clip and put it in one of my Convoy S2+ :wink:

Switch PCB is modded back to 2P battery. In the past i removed the copper layer on 60% of the switch side. So i had to fix it. Used a 0,1mm copper sheet, soldert 2 layers together and glued it on the pcb with thermal glue. Then i were able to install the new switch and the new metal button. Needed a spacer to make it work nicely. But i did not have the right material on hand. So i had to make one brass spacer 2mm and one copper 0,5mm. Soldert both together and made it fit to the aluminium Tailcap. Now i am waiting for some GITD powder to fill the space arround the metal switch button. And the new pill from Kirill that seems to be stuck in customs. But untill then i will remove the red marked area on the pics to make the tube more flat on both sides.
, ,


Put some magnets on the Sofirn C01’s I have. Bought here (Convoy Store):
Used a drop of super glue to fix the magnets in the lights!
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/D5-3-magnet-for-18650-flat-head-battery/1590874652.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3da24c4dkz3qek

Rebel Lime in a Convoy C8+ on a LD25 3A driver. I wanted to use one of my old D80. But the 17mm driver was not a good fit. Even with almost empty battery the rebel lime is pulling the full 3A. It is still not 100% centered. But it is looking fine as it is now.
, ,

So… what is Rebel Lime good for? I mean, is it an aesthetic choice, or is there a practical purpose?

To put out a lot of lime colored light :sunglasses: Kidding! I really have no special use for it. But i find it more interesting to work with a led i never used.
And i like the green/lime colored leds. So i had to get at least one Rebel Lime. To bad that the MCPCB is a Aluminium board and not a Copper DTP
Waiting for new boards from Neven to complete a few more color light mods.

I have a load of (20mm) Rebel Sinkpads doing nothing, I can send you some if you like.

With the rebel does the star have to be a little off center to properly center the dome of the LED?

Reminds me of my Quarks and Jetbeams… :smiling_imp:

Tint is almost as bad as some white CREEs

“almost” :innocent:

Rebel Lime... For a second I thought it was a joke for how the oldgood XPG2s look with a wavien collar and FET.

It's, uh, a color of LED I've only witnessed within the bands of the Cree Fried Egg.

djozz
Thanks! But i have one Rebel Lime and one Rebel Alu Sinkpad left here.
I never thought that it would be such a pain to center this led. Even when the dome is right in the center you get a beamprofile that looks not centered. Only thing that helped was to tilt the reflector a tiny bit. This way you get a good looking hotspot. But still some artifacts arround the hotspot.
Next led i want to build a light with is the KP CSLNM1 F1. The Led4Power 6A driver is ordered (will turn it down to ~5A) and i can not wait to see how it looks in the D80 or the Cometa.
But i am really interested in a deep red led with high output.

Has anyone had trouble with blowing an SST-40? I’ve been messing with TIR lenses in an 18350 S2+ and it lasted about 3 seconds on the highest level. I was using a FET driver but thought I would be OK without a bypassed spring and the Efest 18350. Regardless of mode the led will only come on as if it’s in a moonlight mode.

I thought Astrolux was using a FET in one of their SST-40 lights? Maybe I just got a bad one?

There's a few possibilities. You could have damaged something in the current path, like an unbypassed spring or a switch that wasn't up to the current, in a way that increased the resistance a lot. You may have blown the SST-40, as they can only handle about 9A max... however, I don't think it's likely, as my recollection is that they burn bond wires and die completely. There could also be something wrong with the driver, but I wouldn't know what or how to troubleshoot it. With TIRs, there's no chance you shorted to the reflector, so I'm not sure what else could have happened to it. I'd also check the battery voltage and the thermal paste under the MCPCB just to be thorough.