What did you mod today?

Maybe. DBC-05 started out with a 3.17 pound copper round bar for a pill. :smiley:

Actually SST-20 is not merely efficient for a 2mm² emitter - it’s very efficient.

I find the 20’s to produce too much heat for the lumens they offer and I don’t care for their tint. I have quite a few 20’s, some 46…. all removed from lights and sitting around on my bench.

The 20s definitely produce some heat —- I find the tint is especially current/reflector type (or optic) dependant —- I thought my batch of 4ks were way different so I used the same emitter in a few applications—tint change dramatic in some cases and slightly in others

Inspired by CRX’s DIY glow gaskets for triples, I tried brewing up a batch using his formula.

They turned out better than expected. Now I’m psyched to try some other colors.

I built a “simple” Convoy S2+ triple with a lighted tailcap. The 4000K 95CRI FD2 SST-20s came from the BlueSwordM group buy: BLF Interest List: 3rd Gen Extreme High Current Beryllium Copper Silver-Copper Plated springs+SST-20s FD2 95CRI. I used an electric skillet to reflow the LEDs, my second time ever. I sanded down the cup of the pill since the aluminum spacer didn’t sit flat against it. I chose an aluminum spacer vs copper to keep the weight down. The white lighted tailcap draws only 0.15mAmps, so the Samsung INR18650-35E 3500mAh will last years. I used a Carclo frosted optic and kept the non-AR lens. The tint is very good, even better than the Nichia I’ve gotten from RMM over the years, which I didn’t think could happen. This is now my new favorite EDC.

reflow and your LED wire soldering look top notch :+1:

Is the spacer also from MTN? Did you have to solder a bleeder or do you have next mode memory issue now?

What driver/program did you use —Does it get — I just built one with Bistro and in no time at all it’s Blazing hot

Nice work NeutralFan, careful, it’s VERY addictive! :slight_smile:

LED swap from XPL-HI 3D to Nichia 219F (bought from Clemence).

Stock LED:

After the swap:

Thanks for the compliment! Yes, the spacer was also from MTN. And yes, a bleeder resistor is needed for the MTN-17DDm driver. Bistro works perfectly.

I used a MTN-17DDm with Bistro. It seems to get as hot as quick as my Nichia triples, but I also set the thermal protection to start stepping down at around 140F. It has 9 levels of brightness and rarely do I run them on the higher levels. But it’s impressive the amount of light they can produce even if it’s just for a short time.

Thanks Dale, I appreciate that coming from the Master Modder!

Whoa! Hold on there, no Master here! Just a hack with some experience… BLF has a lot of folks that do all this on a level way over my head! Thanks though, appreciate the thought…

So, I bought one of these, and of course I wasn’t happy with the LED’s when I got it. Reflowed some 4000k 95CRI 2835’s :smiley:

I am a step closer to get my Bench PSU ready. Front and back are finnished now. The internal 480W PSU case is also modded to get better airflow and cooling. Now i have to cut new Air inlets on one side and wire the internals. But i am getting close.

Got the XHP50.2 (3V version) for my Q8 and have to widen the reflector holes now. What is the best way without ruining the reflector? Filing, or drilling? Unfortunately I don’t have a stood drill - but 2 left hands instead. Any idea?

You can get a spare reflector with 9mm hole

Ideally, a step-bit which exactly fits the existing hole and widens to the size you want, but…

Weird question: Where can I find an S2+ with the old rubber button?I like those better in general, and especially for lighted switches.