Congratulations on your mod Jon! You are getting better at it by the day! I like the incandescent the most in your tint comparison. The E21A 3500K actually looks kind of green but it could be the camera playing tricks.
Was it hard to remove the mcpcb? I was thinking of buying one but didn’t because of the glue. Did you reglue it after the swap?
It was pretty easy. You need only soldering iron. Apply a bit of solder to the side of MCPCB to improve heat transfer and just wait. After couple of minutes you will be able to separate MCPCB from the pill with tweezers. Side effect: leds will unsolder themselves as well. Then clean everything with isopropyl alcohol. I used MX4 thermal paste, didn’t glue anything.
Replaced the DIY 2 LED aux board in my E01 with a Lexel board with 4 LED’s. I’ll probably swap them out to a single color to match how the 4 LED’s of the switch are a single color, still gotta decide what color though. I’m thinking red or amber.
The beam pattern with the E01’s big TIR is pretty cool looking!
Way better tint.
Did you reflow the Luxeon yourself? Since the M150 has the rectangular shaped DTP.
I would like to change it as well, but haven’t ever reflowed a LED before.
I received the M150 as well, the tint is very unpleasant, the typical XPL2 corona
Also, i could not get the claimed 750 Lm on T1, i measured about 400. Skilhunt advised me to clean all contacs and try again on a fresh charged cell, but exactly the same results.
Hi Yokiamy! Yes, much much better tint! This LED in 5000K is quite pleasant, I never tried it before! It has - in comparison with other NW LEDs - a rosy tint and some yellow, but its much better than the CW!!
Yup, I unsoldered the M150 PCB and took it out with the help of some pointy tweezers.
After taking the Luxeon V2 out of a 16mm Led4Power MCPCB, I put it over the Skilhunt PCB and applied some heat under it with the soldering iron. I only have that heat tool, so I had to use it the best I could Well, I have an electric stove, but that would be overkill, I only use it to solder pills to triple spacers
About the max lumens, I am carrying it today (for the first EDC trial ) and it doesn’t have the battery fully charged, it may be around 3.7V. However, I compared it with the Acebeam TK16 in the lower turbo version (~750 lumens) and indeed the M150 is lower! When fully charged it behaves better, but like you said, it probably won’t reach 700 lumens. :zipper_mouth_face:
I made some night beamshots here, and I guess it can confirm that it is not as bright as the other lights I compared it with, on T1 / Turbo.
I am carrying it in the “coin pocket” along with a knife and Vicks inhaler. I had to turn the switch to the opposite side of the other stuff as it was getting activated easily. Turning it to the “empty” side, head down, is preventing “pocket activation”!
I’ve got a Luxeon V2 and several Vs in 4000K and love them. I’m going to put some in 5000K in my C8F, and this post makes me even more excited.
As for your heating apparatus, I’m planning to get something like this soon, once I’m setting up a workshop in my house.
Nice find jon! Tempted to get one now…
Tonight another aux LED mod with boards I ordered from lexel. This one in my SP33 (with 8+1+FET CK driver running anduril) with ice blue led’s.
It was actually one of my easiest aux LED installs to date, the board required almost no modification (replaced the pots with 1.7kohm resistors for clearance to the reflector) and I used one of the anti-rotation screw holes instead of having to drill anywhere!
Made a quick kapton isolator but the pic was rotated and it’s late…
If you look perfectly head on you see 4 reflections but if you look from a slight angle you see 8 (bonus surprise in this pic, my new 100cri work lamp providing ultra low ambient lighting)
On high they’re bright! Moonlight bright.
I suppose those aux leds actually produce a (crappy) beam!
Havent worked out how to drive a cft-90 yet so thought i would mod my 145mm aspheric to use k75 as light engine. microwave dish sized spot on a mobile phone tower at just under 1km away.
Edit: i did some measurements and got 5.2km throw but there is no way it could be that
Under 12” it’s a solid beam (and looks cool as hell), over that distance and the donut hole is ever expanding.
Its sort of a proof of concept / test bed for a ZY-T08 mod I’m working on with XP-L HI and 4 red XB-D’S.
I’m confused grin, you say 145mm aspheric but the photo shows the lens not much larger than your K75, am I missing something or forgetting how big the K75 is?
Fun stuff isn’t it?
Lux times distance squared, probably need a 20M or 50M lux test to really get a good read on it. That would be candela, multiply that by 4, then take the square root of the answer for throw.
So, like on my last 5M reading (25 multiplier as 5x5=25) I got 45200 on the meter, for 1.13Mcd. X 4 = 4520000. The square root of 4,520,000 is 2126 so that light throws 2126M or 2.126km
(CFT-90 in a 95mm reflector driven at 22.4A from an FET driver off an 32650 at around 4600 lumens. I’ve since had it show 5010 lumens from a Samsung 30T but didn’t retest lux)
Haha I was in denial when i first came here.
The k75 is a big light here it is with the lens out of the housing has a few scratches. But now i have the dimensions i plan on buying some big billets of aluminium and a new lens so i can get it looking better.
Thanks for bit a clearer explaniation I will eventually get it right. My disto showed a service message when tried to measure the distance more accurately. Might be cheaper to buy a new one. So i will have to wait.
I have a 178mm lens for the next one which will be shoulder held that is what I want the cft-90 for, it will go well with the 8x6w laser diodes i have for it. already spent over 2k on parts for it.
Wow that is certainly some dedication. I think if people want beam shots they can just tell you a latitude/longitude and you just shine it that way
I have a 200 mm Edmunds that shows 2.4Mcd in open testing, probably won’t build it though. My 10x22 lathe doesn’t like that huge bar stock.
I’m liking the ice blue LEDs. I have some on order from eBay to put in a lighted switch.