What did you mod today?

Nice work! While you don’t want to chip the phosphor (UV blue leakage) it’s the bond wires you really want to avoid in most cases. I find that the LB351D doesn’t actually respond well to slicing. YMMV

I sliced a 5000k LH351D and ended up with great results. Dropped the CCT by a few hundred kelvin, I’d estimate it to sit around 4400-4500k and doesn’t appear to be green.

The 5000K dogfart led is the best for slicing IMO, only limited output loss and great tint improvement by decreasing the duv.

I would worry a bit about that conductive spacer you used :frowning:

I thought that too but i’m pretty sure they meant they used it as a slicing guide :slight_smile:

I see :person_facepalming: :beer:

This week I received some 15mm 1S single sided drivers I long awaited to a mod!

Major aim with it: GET ME MY NEW EDC FLASHLIGHT! :heart_eyes:

With this said, I’ll show it below!

The driver, and the wire installation:

The LED was changed. I opted for a Samsung LH351D instead of tge XP-L HD CW led! Much better! It has a slight yellowish shift under an SMO reflector, but it is barely noticeable in the highest outputs!


Driver and LED installed :wink:

I decided to make a gathering between the Convoy lighted switch and the On The Road tail cap (that is slightly transparent) to have a lighted tailcap :person_with_crown:

Yeah, by this time you have probably guessed which is my new EDC light, right?
Oh, I also joined an Olight M1T pocket clip so that we have a great flashlight party :smiley:

Of course! It is the new…Lumin…NO…Nitef…NO!!..…. It is the one and only……

….NITETOP ES10KTool V2.0 :person_with_crown: :face_with_monocle: :student: :beer:
Yeah, this is a great “lego” between these two flashlights! The junction is great, and it works perfectly!

So, I won 2 excellent configurations with 2 different flashights!
I am using it as “NITETOP” as it has a deep carry and with good retention clip, the switch is more silent and it has that great knurling from the Nitefox ES10K tube!
But I can use it as Lumintop Tool AA with the lighted tailcap and the excellent Olight clip :wink:

It is configured in the mode 9 of Bistro OTSM, moonlight ON, no memory and mode reversibility. So: moon light + 1 x7135 + access to Turbo and the other special modes :wink:

I am happy :partying_face:

^^Very Nice! :+1:

Thank you :smiley:

That is a sweet project! Definitely exciting when a plan comes together!

Took a while to accomplish, but now it’s done, I’m really happy!
BTW, the drivers are from Lexel, forgot to mention before!

And the Bistro OTSM choices are quite good for an EDC light :wink:

The next one will involve a Luxeon V2 Led or an XP-L Hi :wink: It will work well under the SMO reflector !
Thanks!

Very nice! The Tool AA makes a great host. BTW, these covers (the light green ones) work great when installing an illuminated tailcap.

They’re actually lighter than I expected them to be:

Thanks gchart! :wink:
I guess those are the same as the ones in ghis link:
https://a.aliexpress.com/lQDeG6JQ

I was wondering if they fit but now you’ve said it I may give it a try! Having several Tool lights I may use them well!

But the OTR tailcap is perfect to use with these switches, it is only sligtly transparent, blocking many light when you are in the dark! You can still locate the flashlight but it will not bother the “night vision” :wink:

Thanks for the tip :slight_smile:

Thanks!
I thought the most boring part will be mcpcb polishing.
It turned out that it was cleaning holes for tir optics from excess thermal paste.

:smiling_imp:

A little collection of 4000K loaded lights:

I replaced the XP-L HD in the SP32A with a LH351D, replaced an XP-L HI in the S2+ with the 351D that was in the generic zooming light (with A6 clip) and put a 219C in the zoomie.

I felt I wasn't getting as much out of the 351D in that zoomie (typical with any small aspheric) as I would if it were in an SMO reflector. The SP32A has a great SMO reflector and even tames the 351D beam to be fairly focused. The 219C (from MTN) is one of the more rosy 4000K but I didn't notice it until I put it behind the convex lens. And it gets hot, pushed at 5A+ by a Convoy SST40 driver.

I loaded my pockets and took these out to my 'test range' for tint comparisons from 3 LED manufacturers.

Tried to slice another one after posting and chipped the phosphor. :person_facepalming: I guess I have a blue led now.

I read somewhere that I shouldn’t worry much about the bond wires in an LH351D? Having a hard time looking for it or I guess I was just lucky while slicing it and didn’t snag anything.

Same here. Sliced it since people says it reduces the greenish tint

contactcr is right. My bad. I edited my post just in case someone reads it.
@contactcr Thanks for your video and measurements! Used it as a guide for this mod.

Looks like you made the host :nerd_face: Any more build pics :slight_smile:

Yes please :slight_smile: And the feet and coffee are misleading, I bet that was a lot of work :smiley:

Can’t remember for sure but the LH351D may be a flip chip technology, will have to re-investigate that. If do the bond wires are on bottom and slicing is easier but in this style of emitter there is typically phosphor surrounding the die on the substrate that also excites and is the cause of the odd aura, dicing around the die to remove the unnecessary phosphor around the perimeter yields the optimal result. Cree XHP 2 emitters and the XP-G3 really fare well with the slice and dice treatment.

I’ve slept since slicing a 351 so I’ll have to look back into it, my memory makes all this a PITA, everything’s new so much of the time…

Yes, the 351 is flip chip so no bond wires on top to break. No, they don’t have surrounding phosphor like Cree emitters, slice as close to the phosphor as you dare and I recommend no dicing in order to prevent chipping the phosphor edge.

All phosphor removed, this is how a bare silicone die 351 lights a room on direct drive. Emitter is on a heat sink, nothing but a test cell.