What did you mod today?

I have an L2, 1s,2s 26650 w/ XP-L HI and though it throws, 3A just wasn't enough so I had an extra Convoy 20mm, 6A SST40 driver to double the draw. Love it!

I almost got rid of it but I'm glad I held on to it.

Eagletac sell pocket clips?

I found out here:


I then contacted sales@eagtac-usa.com in Florida and provided my light's serial number but I suspect these can be bought without one. For the US, it's a $5 general item purchase but you can see A1ee3x9re$$ Eag-tac store has them too, SS and black.

CRX CuTi Piston Drive Nichia 219C 5000K - Lexel TA Driver - 16340 - E-Tail Sw - 840lm.


CRX Halo XP-L HI 5000K - LD-A4 Driver - 18350 - Rv Clicky Lighted Tail Sw - 1800lm.

Nice job CRX… that looks beautiful! :sunglasses:

Simple mod for me last night. I reflowed off the stock SST-20 4000K 95 CRI LEDs in my FW3T and replaced them with XPL HI 5D. Also swapped in a 10507 optic and Sapphire glass lens.

The high CRI on these lights is beautiful… for close up use. But the extra output of XPL HI makes for a better general use light in my opinion.

Yesterday I moded 2 lights!
I had a Convoy S2 with SMO reflector, Osram White Flat and Led4Power driver. I decided I would take the driver and led out of it and instal them in an EagleEye X3R host.

The EagleEye X3R is a micro-USB rechargeable flashlight, with XP-L HD Led, and a 3 modes + Strobe (with double click) user interface.

So I took the driver out, took the led out of it and after HOURS, I managed to make it more or less good with the Osram LED. It is incredibly difficult to put this led under a SMO reflector, specially when the reflector is screwed in the flashlight bezel and turns when screwing the bezel in :weary: :person_facepalming:

But I managed to get a so-so instalation.

I also re-used the Convoy S2 host.
I had a 5700K Nichia Led waiting to be installed (it was from the Jaxman E3) and a Biscotti Driver with just 4 x 7135 chips. I put the original OP reflector et voilá, a very decent tint and beam with High CRI and a nice form factor :wink:

Oh, the X3R is compatible with the Convoy 18350 tubes :wink:

The X3R!

I’ve had this venom orion for a while and just got around to modding the tail. The stock tail seems… unfinished or something. Just a poor design in my view. The switch boot is just pressed in. So I removed the boot and McClicky to install a new switch with a gchart battery indicator and cut some threads for a retaining ring.

I forgot to take a pic before I threaded the tail so the first pic is a stock pic of what it used to looked like…

I can’t show you the tail light in action because that’s a faulty led4power switch and I don’t have any other spares switches at the moment (on order) :cry:

That beam looks intense MascaratumB.
Is it just a small white Omten your after pp?

I removed the omten, it was knackered, but still couldn’t find life on the board so I stripped all the components except the LEDs. Not only did they light up but they started changing colour :open_mouth: I want to try and use it again but think it’s probably beyond my ability.

I had a good dig around and found a lone omten that worked and a BG lighted tail board so I think I’ve got the parts I need to finish this mod now :partying_face:

Yup, it is, but it is not perfect! On the weekend I will check how good it looks in pitch black :stuck_out_tongue:
Hunting white walls with this led ain’t funny :smiley:
Thank you :wink:

Your tailcap solution looks so much better than stock! :+1:

Great looking light, pp!

Curious… why stack two illuminated tailcap boards?

Was just using it as a dummy for fitment purposes. Not actually going to use the L4P board. Sorry for the confusion.

I have better plans for the second one you sent me :wink:

If you need a switch give me a holler.

:beer: :beer:

Moded the Skilhunt M200 .

I put pebbled TIR , replacing the SMO reflector and AR Coated glass lens. I kept the black gasket around the LED, and I put a black o-ring a between the TIR and the bezel (it has a blue one originally, but it was causing some blueish shift in the beam with the TIR).

Here is how the beam looks with the TIR. It has, obviously, less throw, less intensity, it is floodier, but has no artifacts on the beam!

Finished a mod (finally) on a fairly big zoomie - the Xanes X915 P10, bought here on Ali. Came to my attention in the Zoomie thread here, Texas Toasted posting here. It's listed here on BG, but a bit pricey.

Originally planned on a SBT90.2 but decided against it because I got a SBT90.2 in a 1504 already, and the heat is not handled very well. So, a white flat W1 will do with a FET+1 driver running my tweaked Anduril. Plan is to use lighter gauge long leads for the LED's, since they already have to be long through the tube.

From the listing:

Stock parts. Notice the long wires that are needed, and the white plastic centering ring will be tossed.

USB Charger/power bank support:

Driver electronics (partial):

Switch, LED's, and more driver parts:

Driver parts stripped:

Lots of wiring needed to make use of the LED's on each side of the switch, plus switch wire, and batt+ to the board:

FET+1/Anduril installed. Spring replaced a small brass button. I wanted heavier, more wiring on Batt- grnd to help with drawing heat away from the driver, since it's not properly mounted. The Batt+ to LED is already taken care of. The green LED's go to MCU pin #2, while the blue LED's go th MCU pin #7. Anduril supports it on both pins, but currently they do the same thing. I was able to use 2 greens and 2 blues, half of what the light has. The stock driver/MCU controls 8 LED's individually from 6 I/O pins. It provides both + and - to the LED's. If the MCU switches the polarity, the other LED in each pair lights up, so they must be alternating polarity to light up both, probably via PWM's. For this driver with the ATtiny85, I simply wired one side to ground so I could control 1/2 of them.

Copper round, 14 gauge, on backside of the shelf, thermal epoxied in, reflow of the W1 on a stock 3535 XP MCPCB:

Drill/tapped 2 screws, used MX4 under the MCPCB:

Close-up of reflow job, I think it's ok, not perfectly centered:

Backside after mounted:

26 AWG long LED wires got 5 amps on a Samsung 35E, but want to do better. Tried 24 AWG and it bumped a little to ~5.2 amps, so I added a 22 AWG spring bypass on the tail.

Here's how it looks:

Compared to a couple of other similar throwers, 1504 on the left, Noctigon K1 on the right:

Now with a B158 on the right:


Recorded 717 kcd taken at 5 meters (just over 1 mile), on a 4.19V Samsung 35E. I think that's in the ballpark of what I'd expect. The hot spot is tiny - somewhat difficult to get the reading but after some re-positioning of the meter, I could clearly hold it in the 700 -717 kcd range.

Sorry, didn't get a firm recorded measure on the lens width but when I did measure it, I found it to be about dead-on with the 1504's lens, though the Xanes is plastic, not glass like the 1504.

The green and blue LED's look awesome, specially with Anduril 2 level brightness controls.

Tom, have you considered potting the driver to improve thermals?

Nice mod Tom! The amount of copper around the led may be a bit plenty but the stock shelf did need improving so it can’t hurt :slight_smile: Great throw!

Well, I still want to have the ability to reflash so not sure if potting the backside maybe would do much?

Thanx! These zoomies have a terrible time to get rid of the heat. The 1504 and B158 shown both have SBT90.2's in them and both exhibit poor heat distribution - the head stays cool for a while and output drops quick. They both have relatively small brass pills so this light's 'shelf' is decent. Was debating to add much more copper since there's plenty of room.