What did you mod today?

Left pic is at low current, left beam is 219B, right is E17A. The right pic is the same, but at high current. With my iPhone, this is the best I could do to show the difference.

NeutralFan have you tried to use one wire with insulation cut inside? This way I was able to use 22awg wires.

Great suggestion Chatika vas Paus! I’m not sure if my soldering skills are good enough to pull that off though.

Have you had any issues using the LED spacer? I’m afraid to put one on since it would be such a tight fit and the E17As break so easily.

Spacer is glued

Something similar for tool aa?

New AA Copper Tool mod from Cool White to sw45k

Before:

After:

modding sequence and tutorial

==

Modded a AAA Lumintop Tool head to sw45k and captive reversible hatclip.

Love the copper and the sw45k :heart_eyes:

After completing my first simple C8+ build (w/QLITE REV.A 8*7135 and XPL HI 5D), I wanted to make myself a new EDC light.

After getting my Jaxman E3 it was time to take it apart and fit it with an H17Fx driver, DTP MCPCB, and LH351D!

All the pieces (didn’t take a picture before installing the driver :person_facepalming: ) ready to go! I used a dremel to sand down the inside of the retaining ring to make room for all those 7135s, trying to be careful to leave enough metal around the little grooves in the ring for easy screwing in/out.

I used my fly tying vice to hold the new MCPCB and put a dremel to it on one side to even out where it had been connected to its brethren during fabrication. I had accidentally sanded down the tips of the vise jaws in the process of using the dremel on the retaining ring :person_facepalming: but it worked! I then thought I would use a flat file to thin the DTP MCPCB to make the head assembly easier. I quickly gave up on that idea after 30min of filing and almost no change in thickness. I figured an extra O-ring would save me a lot of labor!

I reflowed the LH351D 5000k 90CRI to the DTP MCPCB, which surprised me by taking much more time than with a thinner aluminum board. But that makes sense. It works!

Soldered the driver to the MCPCB after cleaning and then adding thermal paste. My soldering leaves a lot to be desired at this point. Always room for improvement. In this case, a lot of room!

I had to use a small hand file to make a wider window on the stock butterfly spacer to fit around the new emitter. I then attempted to flat file the spacer to make it less thick. Of course I ended up breaking it expertly. :sunglasses: So I grabbed a way larger spacer for a Convoy C8+ reflector and filed down its width and height to get it to fit and keep the reflector away from the LED and solder.

Due to the wonky spacer I ended up using, centering the LED was quite the task. After enlisting your help on the forum and tinkering for a while I finally got it centered “enough.”

The ultimate solution to that problem was a little DC Fix, as I wanted a nice floody beam anyway! It helped with the tint shift and looking at the slightly less than perfect LED centering. You can see the finished light with new(ish) not-quite-deep-carry-but-better-than-stock clip repurposed from an Olight Mini Baton.

Overall, this was a successful first mod and a great learning experience! I ended up swapping in a LH351D in 4000k a few days later for a warmer CCT which I find even more pleasant outside. The H17Fx is also fantastic! I love how customizable it is; I can get lower than 1lm all the way to “why is there so much light” and even make the bike flasher exactly as bright as I’d like. Truly wonderful!

Thanks for all your constant help here, everyone! This is a really wonderful and supportive place. Special thanks to MascaratumB for providing answers and lots support during my endless questioning.

More mods in my future soon!

outstanding first Rodeo!
congratulations :slight_smile:

Thanks! :smiley:

I’ve been quite inspired by all the dedication and creativity around here. It’s infectious!

Looks good Blahblahblahhuh! You could get a new LED spacer that will fit your needs with centering. I’ve struggled with this in the past. You can try over and over again to get the LED centered, and eventually with luck it will be close to centered. But with the right spacer, centering is so easy. Kadomain has a great variety of spacers: MISC PARTS.

Thanks!

And wow! Those are lots of different spacers! I’ll check those out. The impatient part of me wasn’t going to wait weeks to get them to solve the problem. But the future me will thank you when I order a bunch and avoid this problem altogether.

I’ve purchased last year copper version of Astrolux C8. It was deep in the drawer until yesterday. I’ve swapped standard BLF Bistro driver and XP-L HI to some more fancy components.

Took L4P 9A driver and Luxeon MZ 3000K bought here and put things together. The whole set creates nice WARM Flashlight. Copper is kind of warm in touch (silky and smooth thread movement). True - heavier than the aluminium, but so much nicer.
Surprisingly Luxeon MZ (4 panel LED) and SMO went together very nicely this time. I like Simon’s new 3030 9mm hole gaskets. They get widened easily and allow to sit reflector deeper which results in more focused beam. In case of MZ it gave not round hotspot but “+” shaped, very unique looking with a functionality of 5050 wide hotspot.

Some pictures below, the housing of copper C8 is eyes pure happiness just by itself :money_mouth_face: Enjoy.

Very nice!

Some sliced LH351Ds to replace the 2700K and the yucky 6500K SST-20s in a tint ramping Sofirn IF25 :

For reference : SST20 JA3 2700K on the left, LH351D 4000K on the right.

Neutral tint at the extremes and slightly rosy in the middle :

That’s awesome! So to be clear you replaced the sst20s with sliced 5000k and sliced 2700k? Or was it 5700K/2700K?

Either way the tint/cct range is awesome

Thanks, I really like the tint ramping feature, I wish there was some better hosts/driver though, it would be great in something like a D4V2, or maybe a fireflies E07 or E12, with E27A for a large CCT range.

Yes it’s 5000K+2700K, I didn’t have any 5700K at the time, with 5700K or even 6000K (if the tint is good enough) it would have been better, estimation with sliced 5700K :

Crossing the –0.0050 duv mark in the middle.

Modded Atom AL Mule w sw45 to Aspheric lens, for a more collected beam.

Nice aspheric

thank you for the encouragement :slight_smile:

I dont like mules, they throw light sideways too much
puts light in my eyes when tailstanding…

all three lights are on, only the mule glares at the camera: