What did you mod today?

No maybe I will,B16 seem is 3modes,press fit lens and a bit bigger than E522
do you have both two?

Yes, I have both.

A few days ago member Nbabu send me a parcel with a lot of spare parts and lights. Some of them were working, others not. Two of those were hosts, as he called them, and they intrigued me a lot.
There was a “vintage” Convoy C8 (model with a pill) and a FandyFire STL-V6. And I started legoing a bit. And lo and behold what I got. For the time being I will call it a Fandyvoy. As you already guessed it: left is before, right is after. The “silver” Convoy C8 is only shown as a reference.

Though only 99% (give or take) matching, I managed to swap the tubes. And the Fandyvoy looked a lot more sexy than the ConFire (not shown) :blush:

Then the entrails: the package also contained a matching pill and driver.
(pictures “borrowed” from a thread in 2014 by member G0OSE)

The pill had room for a 25mm ledboard, and those are hard to come by. But in my box of parts I found a 25mm brass shim of wich I enlarged the inside diameter from 16mm to 21mm. Soldering it in was done with a frying pan. I laid the shim in the pill and when then temparature was high enough, I just put a solder wire in the gap (temporary fixating it with screws, afraid the shim might float away).

The led I used is a 1mm² White Flat I got from Neven. Since I had no centering ring that spanned the gap between the 3030 emitter and the rather large opening in the reflector, I made one myself. Found a piece of round nylon somewhere that I flattened, and widened the opening a bit. Then I glued it onto the ledboard and made it black with a felttip pen. The centering stub only takes care of the centering. For focussing I use a plastic ring around the centering stub. It serves two purposes: the thickness permits me to fine tune the focussing, and it prevents the reflector touching the solder blobs on the leads. Atm I use a “shim” I cut out of the bottom of a plastic coffee cup.

Then the other side of the pill. Since I hate soldering a driver, I filed down the rim of the pill that holds the driver to a fraction less than the thickness of the driver. So the driver protrudes a bit. But it is firmly held down by a 3mm Nylon shim I filed down until it exactly fits the inside of the head. And it is pushed against the pill by fastening the tube of the light. The driver itself is left intact. I was afraid to stick my soldering iron between the two PCB’s so I refrained to shortening the leads by some 50% and bypassing the spring with 20AWG.

The outcome is rather surprising: With only 1.5A at the tailcap, from two Efest 18350’s, the hotspot has more impact than that of a White Flat with 5A in the silver Convoy I used as reference. I have not measured this, it was done the redneck way. Both lights shining on a white surface, and looking wich beam prevails if the hotspots touch.

No beamshots. I have ordered a “Green” Flat 1mm², and when that arrives, I’ll organize a shooting match.

Quick and simple mod tonight:

O-ring mod to Noctigon KR4.

The KR4 is a great light, but the switch is a bit too easy to depress. I had done the o-ring mod on every FW3 series light I own so decided to give it a shot on the KR4. Here’s what I did:

  • Unscrew the tailcap retaining ring. It was stiff, but not glued. Needle-nosed pliers in the retaining ring coupled with some 3M grip tape on the outside of the tailcap for better grip and it came right off.
  • Remove the switch mechanism. Unlike with the FW3 series, the switch mechanism did not fall out of the light when the retaining ring was off. Fortunately, this mechanism was also quite easy to remove. Just grip the tailcap and press the button quite hard to push the switch guts out. The switch board wasn’t glued. It just had a stiff press-fit.
  • Pull the brass nubbin off the bottom of the switch boot.
  • Insert the o-ring. I used the same size o-ring I used for the FW3 switch.
  • This worked, but wasn’t reliable and required an unacceptably hard press. The o-ring itself didn’t provide enough pressure on the switch to actually cause it to cycle. Perhaps a thicker o-ring would work. Or maybe fill a bit of the switch boot with filler, such as a few layers of tape, to make it shallower.
  • I might try that later, but what I ended up doing was cutting a single tiny square of gaffer’s tape and sticking that on the end of the rubber post in the center of the switchboot where it depresses the switch. This provided just enough extra reach to make the switch reliably cycle. It now requires noticeably more pressure than before. I still have the extra o-ring in the switch, but I’m not sure it’s actually doing anything.
  • Note however that a piece of tape on the end of the thin rubber post doesn’t provide nearly the support of the original brass nubbin. The stock build will be more durable.

Guess I’ll give it a shot like this for a bit and see if it lasts and if I like it.

Can add some more advice.
It is not easy to manipulate such a tiny coin. If you are managing bare PCB (I hope so), and you need to remove more than a hair, take some bigger piece and superglue it to the PCB, this will give you more comfort in holding.
If you are tilting it too much and the sanding surface gets a little convex, you can both feel it and see it.
Find some time and make a small lapping place for such parts. Such lapping plates can be used to finish parts after sandpaper, or for checking them for flatness.
Find some piece (the flattest that you are able to find around) of metal. And a piece of glass (thicker=better). Glue them together with superglue or UV glue. Now you have a lapping plate with a flatness that is far over any flashlight modder needs.
DO NOT use any super abrasives (diamond or CBN powder\grease). They will stack inside metal but won’t remove any material. Do not start with polishing greases. Use regular aluminum oxide abrasives (find them in a liquid state or make your own from powder).
Once you start lapping, you can feel everything. If the surface is already flat, you will feel how big is sticking force (Gauge block - Wikipedia) between your plate and your part. Convex part does not stick to the flat surface. Also you see where is located freshly polished zone, and how big it is. After little practice you don’t need tons of towels around to clean parts every second stoke and see whats happening, you can feel whats happening with bare hands.

P.S. I do not use this technic for flashlight related parts

I see many great new mods in this thread, with lots of nice pics. Fun to read, and modding is still very much alive on BLF! :sunglasses:

My mod this morning:
Last year I bought this little cheap travel clock in a local shop, out of nostalgia because these have been around for 30 years, but also because they are nicer IMO than the digital ones.

It works on a single AA battery and has a small bulb to light the display at night. But unfortunately the display lighting only works by pressing a momentary switch on the back, letting the switch go switches the light off again.

I was sure that it was a led but behold it turned out to be a mini incan bulb. The design is really 30 years old. But I guess it is also laziness, the battery is 1.5V so you would need a little boost circuit to light a led from it, that is why they still went incan.

I really want to light the display continuously, that makes for a nice beacon on the bedside table at night and saves clicking a button if I want to know the time. Having the incan bulb on all the time would drain the battery in no time, but I reckoned that a led at sub-moonlight level, which is what you want at night, should draw small enough current to have it lighted permanently.

This is the plan: a simple Joulethief circuit using a QX5252 component (ebay), an inductor (also ebay), and a 2300K 90CRI 5mm led bought from rngwn. As can be found online, this is the circuit (pin 1 is not used, it is for adding a solar panel to have the battery charged):

The current through the led is adjusted by the value of the inductor, higher value gives smaller current. As I want less than 1mA, I needed a very high value inductor, after experimenting I found what I needed: a 10mH inductor causes 0.260mA and 0.017 lumen from the led. 0.260 mA should drain a typical alkaline battery in over half a year, that is fine :slight_smile: . That is 45 lumen/W btw, which is way better than I expected from this circuitry at such low level.

Opening up the clock revealed what was expected, some wires coming from the battery connected to the glued-in incan bulb via the switch. The bulb was easily pryed out.

The hole for the bulb was widened with a drill to fit the 5mm led. (not shown) the new hole as seen from the clock face looks quite neat btw.

The cutout in the display cover was widened too, this was not a great job as you can see but it is nice enough.

Here is the circuitry soldered in place. The switch was left out, the led runs direct from the battery.

And after closing the light it works nicely and the illumination level seems just right to me :-).

The picture makes the illumination of the face look more uneven than in reality, in fact the illumination is very nice and better than from the stock incan bulb. I measured 2260K, 94CRI and duv=0.0017. I put in a new battery and let’s see if the runtime is indeed more than 6 months :)

@Tom, in your post #9543 two lines in the posted software are very long, causing this whole page to display extremely narrow on mobile devices :frowning:

Excellent mod Jos! Very cool and practical.

Don’t I remember you modding another travel click before? EDIT: yup, here it is

It is this same one, the post that you link is about finding out that the bulb was not a led, so the mod was not as straightforward as bypassing the switch and adding a resistor. So I collected some parts and today I did the actual mod with the boost circuit.

Ahh that’s right. Thanks for jogging my memory.

Nice. :slight_smile:
What would be the current when the battery is near-empty?

Still 260 micro-amps I guess, the QX5252 is supposed to deliver a constant current and in this case I made it so low that a near-empty battery should still deliver that.

You are the only one to comment on it, and that's a syntax issue. So to the trash bin!

Just a waste of time, sorry to say - gone.

Nice mod on the clock light, btw!

That is a thorough way to solve it, of course deleting the post was not my intention :frowning:

I was thinking this the entire time I read the post! “Didn’t someone do this already? Deja vu?” I’m glad someone else remembered it as well. Great spectrum on that original :wink:

Been a while, hope everyone’s been well.

Swapped a 4000K LH351D into a JETBeam Mini-One! Much better than the XP-G3. Wasn’t too bad but the bezel is definitely glued and was a PITA to get off.

I realize this light has a glass lens that’s easily replaceable but i wanted to make a lens cap for it anyway so I lathed it up out of plastic.

No prob, I had a copy and re-created the post in a thread on the Amutorch AL1 mod here, since there's no other threads in existence for this light.

The AL1 didn't get much attention and was dropped from BG, but still listed on the manufacturers site here:


Mod Brass AAA Tool to 219b 4000k 9080 sw40:

Mod Copper AAA Tool to 219b 3000k 9080 sw30

I figured out how to get the pills out without shredding the wires. Heat the head on my reflow hotplate for about one minute, set to 100C…

3000k from a copper light looks great!