11563

Can you explain more about please?

11564

So these were designed by Lexel ( [SALE] FW3A lighted TIR board multicolored with LVP, stabilized or High/low ) originally to work as a modded part thatā€™s why it has so many components on the board.

Some of the other more recent aux board styles use power/control/everything directly from the newer MCUā€™s so it can basically just be a dumb board with LED and a few resistors where as these from the E07 have low voltage protection, power regulation, etc all built into the board. Because the board is self sufficient it really only has on/off as far as the driver is concerned.

11565

SC21 Pro mod to sw30 w stock refector

Auto white balance, ambient night time warm LED house lights.

swap out refector for 20mm, 30 degree Pebbled Tir for xml
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251800586565785.html

2 Thanks
11566

That looks nice Jon! Did you have any fitment issues going from reflector to TIR?

11567

Jon you mentioned a few times you canā€™t set the white balance on your photos.

You can get manual white balance on the iPhone with other apps, search for:

White Balance Camera Apps iOS

I have ProCam 8 and I like it. I got it because the ipad canā€™t record VGA videos directly and it shows red stripes if itā€™s overexposed. I bougt only the basic version, no extra modules.

Auto white balance: tap into the viewfinder

Manual: tab the yellow AWB and use the slider

ProCam 8

App Sliced to track prices and alarms:

Most of other ā€œfreeā€ Apps are with adds or subscriptions and ProCam has photo and video functions.
(Yes a bit pricy, but less than the Opple)

11568

So if I understand, my old e07 is more good than a new e07 with direct power for the aux?

11569

Iā€™m not too sure how the new E07 works but I wouldnā€™t say itā€™s better or worse just different. One has extra flexibility with the potentiometers but you lose ability to do high and low or choose individual colors (in Emisarā€™s case for example).

11570

Not reallyā€¦ I removed the centering ring and glass lens, this made the bezel tighten 1/2 turn tighter. No other adjustments

here is the album SC21 Pro w 219b 3000K sw30 and pebbled Tir mod - Album on Imgur

and a photo taken at 8amā€¦ notice how warm the 3000K looks at that time
https://i.imgur.com/AlJp4yD.jpg
compare to my ambient house lights at 8pm:
https://i.imgur.com/yWoYMqp.jpg

I use ambient light to allow my iPhone to set its Auto White balance. This works very well for me, as it shows what the LED Color and Tint look like in daytime and night time ambient light.

Since I do not take photos in a dark room, I do not need manual white balance. imo taking photos in ambient light actually works very well to show color and tint. It also lets us see the flashlight.

My Opple lets me show both the Ambient and the Flashlight color temp and duv, to help explain why a warm white LED changes its apparent color during the day, vs at night.

1 Thank
11571

Hey @jon_slider, it looks like the ā€œ[/quote]ā€ needs to be on its own line with nothing else after it otherwise it breaks the quoting and you see the underlying code. Just one of the many quirks/bugs of the Discourse forum software.

Examples:
Good quote:

Broken quote:

[quote=ā€œjon_slider, post:11570, topic:37376, username:jon_sliderā€]
I removed the centering ringā€¦
[/quote] la la la

11572

good info, thanks

11574

Should and e-switch light draw current when the LED PCB is removed? I have a D25LR and did a LED swap but after putting things together something seems to be shorting since the light gets warm while off after a while. Not sure if it was like this before the LED swap but I only noticed it now.

Tested different batteries and shows the same issue. There is an 87ma draw in the D25LR whereas my D25S only has a 0.00032ma draw when off(using an aneng AN8008 if it matters).

I have not checked the driver yet as the cover is being stubborn so just asking for info before I mutilate this light further.

11575

Yes, the e-switch drivers will consume a little current even without a load (or a potential load) because they need to stay awake and wait for a signal (or things like voltage monitoring, etc). It should be very little, though, like >50uA and probably a lot less since itā€™s a simpler driver with no aux lighting. 87mA says something is wrong. Check for shortsā€¦solder spatter, wire insulation where they pass through the mcpcb or touch host metal, etc. Metal reflectors can also do this if they touch the wire points but thatā€™s not an issue for this light. Make sure the wrap on the battery is intact on the + end. Those are the obvious things but if thereā€™s a chance you may have damaged a component on the driver, look there, too. Since this is doing this without the mcpcb attached, it sounds unlikely that the led wires are at fault (or something like an emitter that was mounted backwards/polarity).

11576

I agree there is a short

here are 3 possible ways

  1. if the solder blob on the positive wire is too tall, it can touch the reflectorā€¦ or

  2. if a small solder ball falls between the side of the mcpcb and the bodyā€¦ or

  3. if the insulation on the positive wire gets split, so the wire touches the side core of the mcpcbā€¦

11577

Thanks for the insights @Correllux and @jon_slider Iā€™ll try again next weekend and look into what you guys have suggested. Been trying to diagnose it the whole day and Iā€™m already at wits end.

11578

I agree, sometimes its best just to set things down and come at it fresh another day. Been there :slight_smile:

11579

Nothing specialā€¦

After my handmade fabric pouches, i made simple lanyard from a flat fabric cord, so i have the original lanyards brand new in their boxes !

11580

I moded my convoy S21D to be a mix tint. I used two 5000k and 2700k 519As.

image
image1846Ɨ1713 754 KB

image
image1125Ɨ2059 148 KB

image
image1125Ɨ2079 185 KB

image
image2709Ɨ2672 1010 KB

1 Thank
11581

Very nice !

11582

I spent way too many hours this past weekend modifying my Cyansky P10 that I won with their GAW. But had fun doing it!!!

Although the flashlight was very bright, I didnā€™t like the low CRI and greenish tint of the OSRAM P9 LED.

The P10 head is pressed fit and glued together. In order to replace the LED with a 2700K SST-20, I had to hammer the TIR lens thru the head which cracked the lens, tore off the LED, and bent the MCPCB and aluminum shelf.

I then made some customize parts in order to rebuild the head:

  • Created a driver retaining ring from a lock washer. Lots of filing and sanding in order to screw it into the head threads.
  • Modified a plastic reflector taken from a cheapo AA flashlight by sanding down the top of it.
  • Dremeled a green S2+ AR lens to fit in the head.
  • Filed the driver and shelf so they would move freely in the head. The shelf still presses against the head, but no longer needs to be hammered into place.

Put it all together (also replaced the wires with durable Teflon wires and added 3 layers of Kapton tape to insulate the driver) and the beam was not the best. It was ringy, but thankfully no donut hole. So I put some DC-Fix between the reflector and lens and the beam turned out great.

The high mode lumens is noticeably less than before, but the tint/CRI/CCT and beam is much better. Iā€™m very happy with how well it turned out!

IMG_5370
IMG_53701920Ɨ1440 153 KB
IMG_5373 2
IMG_5373 21920Ɨ1440 120 KB

IMG_5378
IMG_53781920Ɨ1440 127 KB
IMG_5380 2
IMG_5380 21920Ɨ1440 115 KB

3 Thanks
11583

Nice. That sounds like a lot of work. So you can Dremel glass?