This sounds hot, and fun!
I wish there were a 21700 tube and high CRI 3V XHP50s.
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Same here!
You can use the 26800 tube and some spacers to utilize a 21700.
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Good luck and be very careful when trimming/fitting the aux board, any damage to the silicone from a too-tight aux board can make them burn up before they normally would.
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Brilliant idea to pair a driver with incan bulb, not sure why I have never thought of that! I have some incan build but I always wished they have modes and LVP.
How did you fit the driver, did you keep the S2 pill?
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I kept the S2 pill, but the reflector isnât electrically neutral, so it needs to be insulated from the body for the driver to function. I found a random plastic piece that fit snugly on the top of the S2 pill to insulate the bottom of the bulb PCB from the top of the pill, and i used Kapton tape to insulate the edges of the reflector. The pill already had a hole on the middle from the previous laser diode swap i made, so i ran the wires through it. The pill didnât had a retaining ring (old convoy clearance trapezoidal host), the driver was soldered to it, so i just soldered it again.
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Swiss Tech Klassisch emitter swap
[review] [teardown] had a brief moment of fame because of a pricing error and itâs unique design. It has a terrible driver with visible pmw and low cri emitter and non replaceable battery and itâs not very bright. My original goal was to use 219b 4500k and Anduril driver and have a replaceable 21700 but that was too ambitious so for now I decided to scale back and just do a basic emitter swap. I use these 3030 95cri emitters djozz review. The tint came out neutral and looks pretty good.
Modded S2+'s/SC31 Pro next to Swiss Tech Klassisch
Sunlike 3030 3 x 5000k/ 3 x 4000k/ 1 x 3000k 95CRI
Abandoned Nichia 219b 4500K mod
S2+ mule FFL351A 1800K/5000K 95 CRI
S2+ mule 219A 4500k 95 CRI
S2+ mule LH351D 2700k/5000k 90 CRI
Swiss Tech Klassisch Sunlike 2835 5000/4000k/3000k mix 95 CRI
SC31 SFT40 6000k 70 CRI
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Where would I find the spacers for the s21a? Iâm looking to do a couple quads and only seem to find posts from years ago.
I just made one yesterday out of a piece of 6mm thick copper. I rough cut it to ~23mm diameter, drilled a hole in the center, used a bolt as a mandrel, chucked it in my cordless drill and ran it against a belt sander.
You could use aluminum instead of copper and plain sandpaper or a file instead of a belt sander, but then you canât solder it to the pill.
I usually make spacers with copper rounds stacked and soldered together
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That doesnât look like a 519A, looks like a 219B, from both the silicone and the die size. You canât dedome those.
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sorry⌠for future reference, get the LED hot, then push sideways:
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Iâve always just pinched the dome with tweezers until I saw it separate from the glass, so far havenât broken any 519a that wayâŚ
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Iâve always preferred the blade method, slicing then shaving. I use brand new utility blades when I can. Cut til you feel resistance of the glass, then scrape away any excess with the sharp blade. I find you get much finer control with the sharp edge as well.
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Iâve pretty much just used my fingernail, or the plastic end of the tweezers from a swiss army knife. Usually also with a hot emitter, but it works fine cold too.
Iâve only had one failure, and that was because I accidentally picked away too much silicone while cleaning up so some blue light was leaking out.
Youâre right. Itâs definitely a 219b. I looked it up on past orders from Hank. Not sure why I thought 519a. I even have it documented 519a.
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Thanks for joining the gang, kletsinger5394!
Thanks I may try this idea!
Do you know what size I would need for the s21a?
23mmĂ6mm is perfect for the S21A.
Because it has a pill that screws into the head itâs also pretty forgiving, so if your off by a mm one way or the other it probably wouldnât matter.
Also
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