Maybe this will help…
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The current increase resulted by reducing the shunt value isn’t a product of the reduced resistance itself, that would only result in very minimal improvements. The shunt resistor is there to give the LED controller a current feedback. When you reduce the shunt resistor value the feedback voltage gets lower, the LED controller thinks that the output current is lower than what it really is, so the controller sends more current than it was sending before.
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Yes!!
Hmm, OK,
(OK from that site)
Dividing Current
Parallel resistors have an analogous effect with current: the total current flowing into the network is divided between the parallel branches. Branches with higher resistance will have a smaller proportion of the total current, and branches with lower resistance will have a larger proportion of the total current.
In my understanding of electrical theory/logic, the current would simply “choose” the branch with lower resistance and ignore the other branch; all current would travel through the one branch, not be divided between them.
Apparently it doesn’t work that way. Interesting!
I understood mostly before the applied concept you are using, ie what it accomplishes… I just couldn’t understand how it could possibly physically do that, as stated above, that kind of current flow to me is impossible.
It still doesn’t make much sense why it would work that way, but neither does a whole lot of things; I can accept it as fact that it does indeed work, for whatever reason.
Thank You!
Yep, electrical circuits might be confusing. But in your logic connected high resistance branch acts exactly same way as disconected one. Why would it ?
If you have a water tower and a wide pipe stuck in it. If then you add another but narrower pipe in parallel would the water choose only the wide pipe and ignore the narrow one ?
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Ha,with water that would depend on the forces involved. And the pipe size. And the style of connection to the source.
Under high pressure, it could flow both, unless there was restriction entering the small pipe then it could bottle neck, eddy back, and effectively stop the flow to that pipe.
Under gravity/atmospheric pressure feed, it would depend. Generally it would flow both to their capacity.
A big enough difference in the pipe sizes and water flowing through the big pipe could cause vacuum suction at the source and flow the small pipe in reverse!
But yes, as I think you mean it, generally both pipes would have flow.
But every electrician, and electronics tech I have ever known have said the water analogy doesn’t work beyond very basics, and that I agree with. I do a lot with fluid; Assuming electricity works like fluid dynamics is usually what gets me in trouble with electrical problems.
But yes, now it is clear, see what you mean, really doesn’t make sense that one branch would act as if disconnected! But it sure felt that way before, so now I’m not sure how I was thinking that. Lol.
Oh well, that’s why we ask questions, right?
I’m learning, so thanks! 
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I wasn’t quite sure where to put this post. So I’ll put it here.
When I first built these shelves for behind my bar, the vision was to have them backlit like this. However, I wasn’t finding anything that fit what I was wanting that didn’t cost $400. Until I decided to check AliExpress.
$16 later…
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Can you send a link to the barlights
on aliexpress?
Sure thing!
Nice! Do you have link to the GITD pls and pic if possible of where you put it. PS I am VERY clearly not as skillful as you are so picture or clear instruction would be good.
As a hard core Convoy “fan”, IMHO the M21H is both latest and overall “best,” generation of Convoy TIR+quad LED host: much much better side switch than M21E and F wrt tactile response and deeper travel, helpful USB-C on board charging, and I suspect much better thermal regulation than the venerable S21D (haven’t tested this one carefully yet, but very clearly so in S21F, another newish Convoy host).
This looks great! How did you manage to hold the button in place? The original driver was a double decker with the switch on the top layer I believe?
Andruil 2 boost driver in M21H sounds like a winning combo!
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I’ve tried to link on AliExpress before and failed.
Try this one:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004701571563.html
Seller is MULTIONS Official Store. I ordered Type 1 colour, it’s cyan in the picture but blue in real life (assuming they sent me the correct one…).
I ordered 20mm width, I can’t remember the specifics of how I fitted the tape to be honest, I’m away with work right now so don’t have the light to hand, if i remember I’ll upload some pics in about a week’s time when I’m back.
I think I took the TIR out and with a bit of trial and error, cut a strip the correct height to fit behind the TIR. First attempt was a little short, it looked okay when the light was assembled but I wanted maximum glow material.
Keep the sticky back on, and loop the tape “inside out” to wrap it around the TIR. To secure it, lift up 5mm of the backing and stick the tape to itself. I must have made 6 or so small cuts to make it form the cone shape.
Reassemble carefully and it should look good from the outside!
I also bought the orange tape (type 6). While orange is a weak glow in the dark colour, this tape is acceptable and actually glows brighter than the garbage green GITD tape I bought from a different seller on AliExpress a year ago.
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I just centered up the switch I got from Hank and pressed the stock ring back in place. The ring from the black one originally had blue anodizing that I stripped off. It was then a little loose so I just squeezed it a tiny bit out of round and it’s now secure. It’s definitely a bit ghetto, but has been working without issue.
If this means your M21H now has Anduril. I am extremely jealous. 
Will an R005 be too much?
Or just two in series?
I think R005 is too much. I think MP3431 maximum switching current is 16A. The ones I used are bit too much as well. R010 and R030 parallel are R075 or something (7.5mOhm).
Two R005’s in series are the same as the stock R010 if you meant that with your series comment?
Yeah I actually have two and I just wanna know if it’s still too much if I connect them in series.
2 of R005 in series is basically the same as the singular R010 it has as a stock. So you wouldn’t gain anything.
Nono I mean is it safe if I connect them in series (basically creating a R010) and connect them on top of the existing R010 basically connecting two R010s in parallel
It’s safe, but that would mean the driver tries to reach 11.4A output based on my stock driver measurement. It can’t reach that and boost converter most likely does a thermal shutdown pretty fast. So you wouldn’t gain anything but a light that’s unusable on highest mode. Also efficiency takes a big hit because components aren’t calculated for such a high outputs.
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