I’ve built many many Eagle Eye X6 triples using this 32mm MCPCB and CUTE-3 optics, with anything from XP-L HI to de-domed XP-L HD’s, Nichia 219C and 319A. As well as XM-L2 and XHP-50. Without this MCPCB, these triples are much more difficult to produce. The Raysoon F13 also works well with these, and many others. And then there are those lights that you just want a heavy duty copper DTP board for a single XHP-35 or XP-L2….
Thanks for reminding me, I need to pick up some more of these…. 
I second wight (hi, long time no see 
) , the legs should be flush on the board, that is the correct height for most domed leds.
Not really, this isn’t about this specific PCB, nor is it about the question in the OP.
His question was about distance between LED and optic, completely unrelated to this topic other than “im using this same PCB”
Maybe take quick google at what “thread necroing” is?
There is no problem with “spreading information out” that’s literally why there are subforums and thousands of different threads on forums.
Man Ck has been gone a long time! Welcome back wight!!
It’s called forum etiquette.
This is BLF so I fixed that for you!!! 
On BLF there is a solid tradition of necroing old threads. And I’m for it, it brings back memories, and sometimes forgotten but interesting information.
Perhaps bringing back old threads to life is a good thing on fora that are particularly content-rich, like BLF.
Amen brother! :+1:
I have/had one of Ck’s wild Yezel Y3’s with his driver in it, it had a few modes of his crazy strobe(s), never seen nothing like it since!
I need to borrow it back, just to reminisce…
What a load of self serving rubbish.
Well I for one will not click the rude button, behind your back that is, it has been clicked.
Cheers David
+1
When Enderman said you were a necro I completely disagreed with him, however that rant of yours was rude, swearing is not allowed neither is attacking other members and it deserved a rude button press and if that puts me in some category imagined by you, so be it, I have worn fire proof pants around forums for a lot of years.
Cheers David, who is not going to bite again.
Kinda agree with stormrider, plus he made me laugh
Yeah me too! :person_facepalming: :person_facepalming:
About the question:
I would say those optics are designed to use ‘as is’ on a triple LED board, so i would keep the gap there.
Since the Ledil SS is a TIR optic, it’s better to have the gap, because then the angle at which the light hits the parabola is shallower and the reflection will be better (higher % )
please! let us never use the word “necroing” ever again in life, agreed?
Good to see everybody.
I feel the same way.
@stormrider88 - Maybe your translation tool gave you some trouble. Saying that someone is resurrecting or necroing a thread is not the same as calling them a necrophile. In any case you received answers to the question you asked.
@stormrider88: It's really rude to call BLF members horrible names.
(And your attitude stinks.)
I think it's time to clean up your act if you want to stay here. 
I have an old project I want to resurrect. I was thinking this could be good for the Ledil Seanna lens and a single centered OSRAM KW CSLNM1.TG. The centering pegs on the bottom of the Seanna are 28.84mm apart. Anyone know how far apart the center of the two holes are that are directly across from each other? Hole diameter?
Thanks for any help
The holes are slightly bigger than 3mm, so use M3 screws.
M4 will not work.
The distance between the two slots is 23mm center to center.
I use this PCB when I have a single LED that I want to have the best possible thermal path, nothing beats this huge 2mm thick MCPCB