what should I put in a K9.3?

I’ve come to like the prospect of owning a Noctigon K9.3 and using it as an EDBC (everyday backpack carry), it feels like a compact yet powerful and versatile concept.

I love variable CCT in all lights but in this case I’m hestitant to go for it since the channels are so asymmetrical in output. So I think I’ll go for the deep red in the secondary channel, we do, after all, do a bit of casual amateur astronomy around here, so a night vision preserving light is welcome. Also I like having a red light handy as a night vision preserving tasklight when driving in the nighttime. The button backlight will be red for the same reason.

What should I put in the primary channel? Should I go for 2700K since I love it and it’s easier on the eyes? Should I go for 4000K that I positively adore and consider the most versatile? Either way I’m aiming for 95CRI or better. My PL47g2 has 4000K 95CRI SST20 emitters, they’re quite nice except for the strong green tint at lower levels.

WWBLFD?

If you can settle for 90CRI instead of 95CRI I had Hank put 3x2700k 3x4000k 3x5700k LH351D in my K9.3. The mixed tints come out to 4100-4200ish with no green. Nicer than any SST-20 I’ve had, either right on or just below BBL, with a nice floody beam.

Oh I don’t like external colour mixing at all. Some cheaper RGB (W…) stage lighting washlights/ PAR replacements do that and it makes for unpleasant multicolour shadows. Also I really don’t want to go below 95 CRI.

I’m not sure what that you mean by multicolor shadows. Mixing tints in multi emitter lights is very well established, generally mixing different CCTs will produce an averaged CCT with an overall rosier/less green tint. I.E., my 4100k-ish mixed LH351Ds are FAR below BBL compared to just 9x4000k LH351D.

You cannot tell that the CCTs are mixed unless you are holding the light an inch away from what you’re pointing at. Keep in mind that each of the 3x arrays is mixed 1x2700k, 1x4000k, 1x5700k. The optics do a good job of blending the light together, in the same way you usually cannot tell that the LEDs are arranged in a triangle or diamond shape in triples and quads.

Anyhow, you could also go for 219b or E21A. Neither are technically rated to 95CRI, I don’t think Nichia does their CRI ratings that way, but they tend to be well north of 90 usually as well. 219b has more power than E21A.

If you’re using red LEDs on one of the channels, do not worry at all about greenish tint at any brightness setting on the other channel. Just select white leds with your preferred color temperature, output and beam pattern. Ignore tint.

With dedicated red LEDs on one channel you should be able to dial in the optimum amount of R9 to give a perfect beam with your white LEDs, no matter which white LEDs you select and regardless of the brightness setting you’re running them at.

Just activate variable tint mode and turn on the red LEDs just bright enough to counteract the green and lower the DUV to optimum.

Holy cow that’s brilliant! 4000K SST-20 it is. Thanks for the pointer!

Greetings my friend! I have a green 9.3 with XP-L HI V2 5D 4.000K on channel 1 and 3x SST20-DR 660nm on CH2. I absolutely love it.

I have another black one for home use that’s E21A R9050 2000K on CH1 and red on CH2. I use it on my desk and it’s like a soft golden sunset. Red switch (:

The ultrawarm setup sounds super cozy! I can see the Andúril candle effect coming into play often with that. I have a desk lamp that goes down that low (1800K actually) and it’s a bliss. How do the XP_L HIs compare to SST-20s beam- and light quality-wise?

Oh yeah 1800K is beautiful too. I actually have three 9.3s. The third one has the Osram yellow on CH2 which is probably about 1800K with 2700K on CH1. That thing is ok but too cool for in my house at night and too warm for outside.

Here’s a good combo. I had Hank make me a D18 with an even mix of 2700 and 4000’s. It makes this beautiful, powerful beam that’s about 3300K. Perfect for walks outside

I have red on ch2 and sst20 mix on ch1. The thing about dialing out the green is true. Just be sure to buy a set of various optics for ch1, the throwiest the light comes with are a bit ringy and don’t mix perfectly with ch2.

Cheers for the heads up, appreciated! Are the optics easily available?

A can-sized light is high on the wishlist but I’m torn between a D18 and the MF01S as I appreciate Hank quality, flashing pads and vast emitter options, on the other hand I wouldn’t mind a slightly throwier light, more capacity in 4 cells and aux lights. Also both lack USB charging and IMO would be better suited to a switching driver, one would fit in easily and multi cell lights have a huge operating time potential.

Ya my first can light was a Nitecore TM26 about 5 years ago. I love my new Imalent MS08 (: