What to sharpen knives with?

I can’t even draw a straight line so sharpening a knife without a guided/fixed angle device is out of the question for me. I can get a ‘decent’ edge using stones, sticks and strop but that’s simply not good enough for me.

I bought one of these: Wicked Edge Precision Knife Sharpeners and never looked back. There is sharp and then there is REALLY F*N sharp. I prefer the latter.

No, this does not fall into the ‘reasonably priced’ category but I thought you might be interested in seeing it anyway. Just for giggles.

The Edge Pro Apex and the Wicked Edge are at the top end of guided sharpeners.
I went with what I thought was the cheaper option in the Lansky guided hone system and I’ve spent more than a Wicked edge would have cost me. I have learned to use it and along with a few tricks can put a razor edge on any blade that I have from a Spyderco Bug to a 16” Cutlass. It takes practice.
There’s the Lansky crock stick system and the Spyderco Sharpmaker that get the same results, screamingly sharp edges.
There’s the freehand methods with ceramic rods and diamond grit rods.
There are diamond bench stones and any number of whetstones and they all work, with skill and practice.
The only things that I will absolutely never use are the drag through type with carbide sharpeners, it’s like shaving lumps of steel off your blade, but they’re your blades so go ahead if you like them.
The underneath of a ceramic coffee cup or the unglazed part of a ceramic tile will do a good job of touching up the edge as well.
A piece of wet/dry paper stuck to a flat surface can get a very sharp edge.
For me it’s the Lansky hone, finished with a strop and touched up between sharpening with small DMT Diamond slip stones then strop.

@garrybunk, I’d be interested in your thoughts when you’ve tried out that system, it looks like the Lansky but with a better grip on the hone.

Looking at the one garrybunk posted

Do these take the same size stones as the Edge Pro and Clones, and do you clamp the knife like a Lansky or can you move it from side to side while sharpening?

Also interested in the Edge Pro Clones, like this or this
These would seem to help me get the angle right and should also work with multiple sized knives.

Considering that some folks might not have good eye-hand coordination, that must explain the rationale for the $700 gizmos; but none of us are born with that skill, coordination is learned by practice.

Unless the edge is really chewed up, I can put a hair-cutting edge on most any knife in a minute or two with a $5 Norton medium-fine abrasive stone or medium hard Arkansas type stone and the back of a leather belt with no compound.

The small stone sits in a soap dish on my desk, and in less than 2 minutes I can grab it and take out any rolled spot on an edge.

How easy, cheap and simple is that?

It would take 15 minutes just to get the gizmo out and ready.

I have many other tools to refine an edge beyond that, but I only need a real razor’s edge on my razors. A true razor edge is too fragile for most cutting tasks and will roll over. Most of my razors are carbon steel anyway.

In the kitchen, all I use is a $10 steel. A steel doesn’t remove metal and is just so much faster. Going from dull to “tomato sharp” in 10 seconds or less…and no tomato has won that battle yet.

“It would take 15 minutes just to get the gizmo out and ready”. “$700 gizmo”? Really? It’s a lot more than that with all the options. A lot more. Somebody has NOT done their homework or rates their own ‘opinion’ higher than facts. Don’t want to spend the money on good tools? Then don’t. I have no problem getting great tools to help me do things better than a caveman. This has little or nothing to do with good hand/eye coordination. It’s about true precision.

Comments from somebody that has very obviously never used or had his hands on one (Wicked Edge) are pointless. Either that or he is extremely ‘slow’. The Wicked Edge is mounted (fully assembled) on a granite slab and has a cover/lid that comes off in less than 2 seconds. If you don’t have any idea of what you are talking about………………………………… :slight_smile: Not only that, there are honing ‘steels’ (various types), ceramic (various types/grits) and leather (various types) modules available for this unit besides the few dozen different diamond and stone modules that swap out in under 30 seconds. There are vendors that make specialty modules for this as well. Do you really think you can hold a perfect angle (fully adjustable in the Wicked Edge) evenly across the entire length of a blade by hand? You are just kidding yourself. Better yet, check out your last sharpening job under a good magnifying glass. You probably won’t like what you see. Look up professional knife sharpening services and see what the pros are using. Almost none of them do it free hand any more. How one can trash something that one knows nothing about - is beyond me.

“Tomato sharp”? I can cut a tomato cleanly with a tight piece of dental floss. Dental floss is NOT sharp.

“A true razor edge is too fragile for most cutting tasks”. Again, you don’t know what you are talking about. Carpet and vinyl floor installers use razor blades all day long. A good blade edge is every bit as sharp as the common razor blade and much stronger (again, totally depending on having the right angle). How do you suppose folks shaved before the invention of the razor blade? Even the average razor blade varies from maker to maker by materials used and by angle of the edge. It’s ALL about the angle and type of materials used. Depending on blade material, shape, thickness and hardness, the angle not only varies but is CRITICAL to actual sharpness and strength of the edge. Get the angle right and you will not have to sharpen it as often because it is stronger. You left out ceramic, titanium, tungsten and several other types of exotic blades that you can royally screw up attempting to sharpen by hand. In fact, many makers will void your warranty if you do that. Most of them are much harder and resilient (stronger) than low carbon steel. Maybe you don’t ‘get’ that. I won’t even start to discuss convex edges that are impossible to sharpen with a flat stone, crock stick or honing steel. Yep, the W.E. does convex too.

If the edge on one of my knives (I have many) gets buggered up (rolls or what ever) I simply clamp it into the W.E. and touch it up at the perfect angle. Every time. You cannot do that by hand. If you know how to use this tool, it takes very little time at all.

In the woods or camping, I make do with a hand held stone. It works just like it has for centuries. I can make a fire without matches too but I prefer to carry them or a lighter. I could also use candles for light but there are better ways to provide that. We are only as good as the tools we use and these days and if you choose to ignore what’s available you only limit yourself.

If somebody is happy with the edge they get by doing it free hand, that’s great. I’m happy for them. Really. But, I want more.

The Wicked Edge looks like a nice system, covers a lot of bases. The way I see sharpening systems, you find the one that’s right for you (and your purse). There are so many systems, each have their merits and disadvantages. Not everyone is good at hand sharpening, nor want to spend that time examining and refining their technique.

I once used a DMT guided system and in less than ten minutes had reprofiled a blade made of ZDP-189. It took me hours of work to put a mirror polished convex edge on that knife by hand! My hands were tired and sore from sharpening that weekend. I had to finish the reprofile by hand as the kit only went up to 4000 grit, but it saved me a lot of time and possibly some blisters too.

I prefer a well rounded edge that I get with a stone to a simple wedge, but I don’t get it exactly the same on both sides.

Good points there Yellowhorse. I don’t have a problem with people buying good tools, I have enough of a problem with that on my own.

I do have an appreciation, and more often, a need to keep blades really sharp and to use the right tool for the job at hand. So if someone wants to fire up their Wicked Edge to sharpen their steak knives that’s fine with me. My neighbor, who is an award winning wood carver does just that, but he’s retired and has a lot of free time.

The point is that however sharp your cutting edge might be, it will start to go dull as soon as you start using it to cut something, and the point I was making is that it’s pretty easy to maintain an edge with simple tools and with some practice. Even ceramic blades go dull with use and will need to be re-sharpened, and I’ve sharpened those as well.

Sharpening skills are learned like anything else, by practice, and as most of these consumer pocket knives are really pretty poor cutting tools and don’t have the proper metallurgy to maintain a durable edge in actual use, it’s something one needs to know how to do quickly and efficiently if one actually wants to use these knives to cut things.

With that in mind, every single professional butcher I have met or known uses a steel…every one, and it’s in their left hands many, many times every hour they are on the job.

But in your example, regarding carpet laying tools, I have actually done carpet installation. The job I was hired for was to lay carpet, and to do that I used basically two blades, a razor knife and a pad knife. The razor knife has a straight cutting edge with a sharp point, and the pad knife is slightly curved and looks like a short butter knife. I’m right-handed, so those two blades were kept on the right side of my belt with my axe…on the left side I had my stone and an oil bottle.

Now those blades are made from very hard high-carbon steel. They are professional tools made from much better steel and are much harder and durable than any pocket knife. The grain structure of the steel is very fine, and they will take a very sharp edge. They are heat-treated hard to support the sharp edge, but consequently, are also brittle and will easily snap if bent. By comparison, pocket knives do not have any where close to the same quality of steel or the refined heat treatment to support a razor’s edge in actual use.

Even with those better steels, in actual use, carpet and backing are highly abrasive, so the blade’s edge needs to be dressed constantly…every 5 minutes or less…and mostly less. But that’s no problem, when the razor edge would dull a bit, I would just reach into my left belt pocket and pull out my little stone and dress the edge back to razor sharp in about 10 seconds. And believe me, I hated to stop cutting and lose even that tiny little bit of time off of actually putting the blade to the materials.

But the sharper blade adds up to more production at the end of the work day. The sharp edge cuts faster and cleaner and does a neater job with a lot less effort. If there was a better blade that stayed sharp longer, I would have bought a dozen of them, and if there was a sharpening system that got the blades sharper, quicker, and easier than that good little oilstone i carried in my belt I would have owned it.

I agree that the Wicked Edge system or some other “fixed angle jig” type tool makes a demanding precision sharpening task like, for example, sharpening a Hand Plane blade much easier. (In case you’ve never used a hand plane, those need to be very, very sharp or they make a mess out of the wood).

But if I had to take the time to walk out to my truck and sharpen my carpet blades on some gizmo every time they needed to be touched up because I couldn’t figure out how to get the blade angle “right”, I’d be wasting my day sharpening my knives instead of working on the job, and if I wasn’t already fired in the first hour, I’d probably still be working on those projects now.

Actually, in the real world, if I didn’t have the basic skills to maintain my tools and keep them sharp, I wouldn’t have been hired in the first place, even as an apprentice.

For me, at least, knife sharpening is a very basic skill, easily and quickly learned with a little understanding and a little practice…in a few hours really. It doesn’t require expensive equipment or an electron microscope to do it well…but those items might be nice to own anyway, if one wants them in their garage.

I tend to believe that often the simpler solution is actually better, but then I prefer cars without computers too…

I have several different systems but more times than not (and what I prefer) I’ll just use a simple Arkansas Tri-Hone. These are knives and not surgical scalpels :slight_smile:

Even with honing straight razors the method is fairly simple.

For the folding Stanley box cutter that is my most used knife I just use a set of three diamond plates that I bought for about $15. I use a double sided 3000/10000 stone for my Swiss Army Knife, and my other knives are generally so rarely used that a once over on an Edge Pro copy plus some stropping is all they need. The AUS8 on the RAT1 and Cold Steel Talwar takes a polished edge very easily.