What Voltage Reading Do You Discard AA & AAA Alkalines?

Gebe · 2018-12-20T22:13:52.000Z

I’m sure this has been discussed before but at what voltage do you guys discard AA & AAA alkaline cells?

I’ve heard they’re still okay at 1.35V and above and can be discarded when below. I’ve had readings of even 1.37V and the device they were in wasn’t operating as it should and new cells brought it back to normal. What’s your thoughts?

zak.wilson · 2018-12-20T22:20:42.000Z

I don’t use alkalines. They have atrocious performance in flashlights. I recharge my NiMH around 1.0-1.1V.

Macka17 · 2018-12-20T22:41:29.000Z

Whenever I use them.

I just wait till beam gets “not so bright” or it slows down,
and swap it out.
Some Smaller lights/items can ONLY run on Alky’s.

Lightbringer · 2018-12-20T22:52:28.000Z

Open-circuit voltage can still be relatively high yet the cell be useless for the need (eg, anything with a motor).

I try burning down AAs first in my TK4A, then SF13, finally my bobofett light to really wring ’em dry. Watching for any hint of an impending leak, of course.

Any mismatch means that 1 out of 4 in my ’4A will typically start being reverse-charged when the light goes orange to red. Toss that, other 3 are decent, will burn down 2 of those in my ’13 ’til it starts acting up (both weak, or 1 of 2 being dead), then the stragglers go into bobofett.

No “voltage” to speak of, just performance/indications when to have a look at ’em.

Key is to watch ’em to make sure those hateful little cells don’t do what they’re (in)famous for.

Lightbringer · 2018-12-20T22:54:38.000Z

Oh yeah, that’s why mum keeps burning through those 3×AAA holders after leaving those crappy little lights on overnight. Invariably, the weakest of the three starts crapping the bed inside the light and making a hideous mess.

hank · 2018-12-20T23:03:58.000Z

I don’t trash’em, neighbors let us borrow their battery recycling, done along with city trash pickup.

They go out by threes, once they can no longer power a motion sensitive piss light

Nichia 219 Motion Sensitive Piss Light Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts

I have constructed the most useful device ever known to mankind. Womankind will just have to sit this one out… You know the drill… wake up in the middle of the night with an urgent urge to go. You have a few options: don’t… sorry, life doesn’t work that way go in the dark… and paint the toilet, floor, and your feet turn on the light… and blind yourself and never get back to sleep use a flashlight, hope it turns on low, and you don’t drop it in the bowl Well, enough of that crap. Time to do s…

It’s a battery vampire, basically.

DavidEF · 2018-12-20T23:08:56.000Z

I only use AA and AAA Alkalines in electronics that are no good with NiMH, like remotes and clocks. I let them run until they stop functioning. I don’t check voltage.

Gebe · 2018-12-20T23:10:51.000Z

Thanks for the replies. Lightbringer, good point on things with motors! I had a nose hair trimmer where the cell read 1.37V but wasn’t working right and was stopping. I changed to a new cell and it worked fine. I know, I know, not the best mental image!

I know there are lights that are “alkaleak” drainers but when using things that draw more power like motors or moving parts, 1.37V or less, just doesn’t cut it.

Thanks for that!

Henk4U2 · 2018-12-20T23:17:33.000Z

Macka17:

Whenever I use them.

I just wait till beam gets “not so bright” or it slows down,
and swap it out.
Some Smaller lights/items can ONLY run on Alky’s.

And when they get “not so bright” or even quite dead in your regular light, you can get some light out of them in your Sofirn C01. When that does no longer work, even the IRS can’t squeeze anything out of it.

chops728 · 2018-12-21T01:27:48.000Z

Most of the time in multiple cells set ups—it’s usually one that’s drained—-Eneloops in flashlights always work best for me

wle · 2018-12-21T02:09:53.000Z

i use a battery tester that puts them on a 100 ohm or so load, then just go by its ‘gas meter’
green = ok
yellow = weak
red = trash

i use the yellow ones in remotes and wireless mouses
mices
meese
meeses
mice

wle

Macka17 · 2018-12-21T05:22:11.000Z

Henk.
I buy a card of each for wofe’s alarm clock and a coupla other toys.
Usually Duracell Ultra’s.
When they go “slow”… Time to Dump…
I have my Li-Po4’s for decent stuff so not really too bothered hey.
Those Sofurn C01’s and a coupla BLF 348? I got for girls in Doctors surgery.
They have to walk to their cars after dark in carpark.
Just makes it safer for them.
The law won’t let me give them Remington 870 (20in) pumps with solids.

My eldest. I gave her a 8in Cattle Prod for her 16th. Buggar the law.
THAT farkin’ thing gives a jolt.
8 x Granddaughters. they all have one now. with 2 of them being martial arts instructors.

Gebe · 2018-12-22T21:53:48.000Z

wle, thanks for the tip. I’ll start saving the weaker ones for remotes and my wireless mouse.

Henk4U2, same to you. I was wondering what the Sofirn C01 that I just received was good for.

zak.wilson · 2018-12-23T01:29:41.000Z

Even low-power devices are usually better off with low-self-discharge NiMH. It doesn’t outperform alkaline in those applications, but it won’t leak and ruin them.

Overmind · 2019-11-25T11:04:57.000Z

It really depends on your application.
I categorize them like this:
1.5V+ —> new/premiums.
1.4-1.5V —> good, usable anywhere
1.3-1.4V —> average - still usable in most situations
1.2-1.3V —> below average - usable only for light things like TV remote
Under 1.1 —> to be discarded.