Already done, I grinded down the edges and the insides of the can, but was wondering about the hinges
Yikes, the hinges, I’ve never seen them mentioned.
1 Thank
I was wondering about that too and was going to check for continuity.
I think I need to squat like a slab and watch a few more Lif with Boris videos to get some balance in eastern European life too.
1 Thank
I’m on the fence when it comes to the “prepping wisdom” that states devices which take AA cells are preferable because the format is widely available; if you go to a shop any time there is weather or supply-chain related shortages, one of the first products to disappear are the AA cells; that said, I can understand the logic of sticking with AA if you’re consolidating your electronics so that you only have a couple of cell types to stockpile.
A good place to start might be to review what you currently have, LEDs have become more efficient but lots of the output gains have come from drivers being able to produce much more current than was generally available 10 years ago. If you’ve good hosts and a willingness to DIY, some simple emitter swaps will go a long way towards upgrading your lights.
For new flashlight remmomendations, as mentioned before, the Convoy T4 is a pretty good option, alkaline cells might struggle on higher modes though.
With alkaline cells especially, you’ll (theoretically) get better efficiency from an (e.g) 4xAA light than a 1AA light with 4 spares, as alkalines give more capacity at lower currents, sharing the power requirements between the 4 cells means you’ll have longer runtime.
I’d stick with lights which have a mechanical switch to avoid any question of parasitic drain. I’ve not yet found a headlamp which fits this requirement.
Slightly controversial suggestion, but you could get a 2D or 3D LED maglite and some plastic 4AA → D adaptors. Fitment is sometimes a bit tight, but it would allow you to run D cells if you had them available or, for the 2D version, anywhere between 2 and 8 AA cells.
Second controversial suggestion is 4xAA led fairy lights - I find these produce less glare than a lantern and the ambience they provide is very pleasant. Beware the long wires will act as antenne for electromagnetic energies so these are at higher risk of damage than an aluminium flashlight.
With whatever you decide on, store the cells outside of the light to avoid damage if they leak. Lithium primary cells are generally reccomended for a “fit and forget” solution; for lights you don’t mind doing 6mo to annual checks, low self discharge NiMh (eneloops, IKEA Ladda, etc) are also a worthy contender.
4 Thanks
I have a couple of those AA power banks and think everyone should have one, I put my eneloops in it and it charges my phone, using my yard lights as AA chargers means I will always have batteries for flashlights, or AA lanterns, or of course the yard lights themselves for indoors, I keep a few of the yard light heads in my emp box.
Here is that AA powerbank at Amazon if someone wants to read up on it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D4J6VLB1?th=1
3 Thanks
I’ve already endured a 3 day power outage. Parts of the area still had power while others didn’t and I was in the hardware store during the recovery. The shelves were bare in the battery and flashlight sections by them. That didn’t bother me, I’d already acquired enough lights and batteries as a bike commuter and could recharge at work on my GFs.
I’m planning for an event where I’m not going to be able to run out and buy something for a few days whether it’s due to weather, downed trees or the zombie apocalypse and have enough to do that.
2 Thanks
The longest runtime I know is the Convoy T2 xpg2. Look for Zeroair review…
2 Thanks
I agree
I have come to prefer 14500 LiIon over AA Alkaline
the advantage of 14500 is no leaks. I avoid Alkaline completely, and would never store one inside a light at all.
I also prefer 14500 to AA Eneloop, because output on Eneloop is limited
The one AA battery chemistry I would trust to stock for long term emergency storage is AA Lithium Primary.. which I keep as backups to my 14500.
Im especially fond of 14500 w USB-C charging built into the battery. Not USB in the light as that means I cant use the light while charging.
And not Eneloop because they dont have USB ports, and lights with USB ports wont work to charge Eneloop..
My personal choice for an AA/14500 emergency light is the Skilhunt H150. imo a Headlamp configuration is most advantageous in an emergency.. for its handsfree application.
Honorable mention to the D3AA.. for its seamless dual fuel capability, regulated output, and efficiency.
A note about the TS10.. it also has similar efficiency as the D3AA when used below 20 lumens.
in all cases I store emergency lights physically locked out (tailcap loose 1/4 turn).
Note the TS10 should not be physically locked out, because the dual battery tube still powers the switch. The only way to stop parasitic drain on a TS10 is to remove the battery completely.
4 Thanks
I would think AA/14500 power would be ideal given the flexibility of sources. And I wonder about the onboard charging of Li-Ion cells. You’re giving up capacity for increased flexibility in charging here, how good is the charging? Wouldn’t a separate charger give better results for charging in addition to allowing for more capacity?
1 Thank
Not for portability and convenience…
I do like the power density as well.
I dont think so.. charging is not rocket science, and USB charging works fine.
What a standalone charger does better, are extra functions such as capacity tests, which are not important to me.
I do agree that the capacity w a USB-C 14500 is limited to 920mAh.. and yes there are other batteries w more capacity.. but they have other issues.. for example, the Vapcel F15 Button top is longer than a standard AA (by 1mm). They still fit most of my lights, but its an especially tight squeeze in my 2023 Zebralight H53c N (this model is LiIon compatible).. so I dont like to use F15 button tops in my H53c N.
also the flat top version wont work in my Zebra at all.
So I have standardized on Button Tops, and the USB-C 14500 are button tops that are Not longer than a standard AA.
4 Thanks
Sorry, I’m missing something, why would the gaskets need to be removed? Afaik, don’t you just need to reduce the gap to the wavelength (or was it half λ) of the EMP?
What’s the difference in preparing for a Carrington event emp vs one that a bunch of mostly hairless apes might create upon one another?
Just venturing a guess here, but…working/functioning electronics, so you can better traverse a destroyed world? Lol…
My idea was to take some things I already had laying around and out then in the ammunition can I had laying around and end up better prepared than I was before. Yes I did go to some extra effort by putting wood along the sides and bottom, put the lights in there without batteries and double bagged everything in ziplock bags but all of that probably took less time than it did to post here.
I checked with a meter and without a gasket there’s no continuity between the top and case with the lid shut.
Or you could speed up the inevitable by makung yourself a more visible target for the zombies.
2 Thanks
Replacing them with metal foil provides a good ground between the bottom and the lid.
So, the foil completes the “circuit”. Rubber gaskets would not.
The paint or finish on alot of ammo cans doesn’t seem conductive…light grinding to complete a full contact surface (plus the hinge and pins) might be necessary for a true faraday cage
The paint in mine still looks good and it’s probably older than I am. And it’s nonconductive which makes me wonder how effective it would be at shielding whatever is inside.
1 Thank
We could probably just stick an insulating layer of mylar or something and ground it to the box as a pseudo surge protector…man, I haven’t used these concepts in a long time…would grounding a box to a house grounding rod actually be BAD for emp shielding, acting as an antenna instead of a shunt?