Whetstones?

varbos · 2018-03-07T17:53:45.000Z

Hello,
I plan to buy a waterstone to practice freehand sharpening. Probably a double-sided one with coarse + medium grit. (maybe in future I buy fine grit but right now I think coarse + medium is okay for pocket knives)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-Piece-Kitchen-Tool-outdoor-double-sides-Knife-Sharpener-Whetstone-Sharpening-Stones-for-Knife-Sharpener-System/32807092886.html

Does anyone have experience of this Y-Sharp brand ?

If you can choose only one, which would it be?
400/1000
600/1500 ?

Thanks

robk · 2018-03-07T19:26:11.000Z

No experience with the Y start brand. I would go with a 1000/4000. The stones with lower numbers than that not only leave a lot of scratches, but in waterstones I have found that they wear and cup faster. You might take a look at some of the kitchen knife supply places just to see the wide range of products and prices. “King” is a relatively inexpensive but decent Japanese brand. Also, be prepared to flatten your stones after they begin to show wear, using anything from sandpaper on a flat surface to a diamond stone.

L4M4 · 2018-03-07T19:51:33.000Z

I have one 400 and a 1000/3000
the 400 to get the blade tic-less
1000 for sharpening and 3000 for sharpening2.0 and a bit chamfering

I am pretty sure that you can get them for pretty much the same price in your country

Couchmaster · 2018-03-07T20:28:16.000Z

Speaking only for myself, I would never consider anything other than a diamond sharpening stone. The speed and efficiency improvement over regular stones is amazing.

sochi111 · 2018-03-07T21:29:03.000Z

Dont buy these stones they are overpriced. they should be around $1-$5, these are cheap 99 cent store junk.

They use the same abrasive as in sand paper. For 5-10 cents a piece of sand paper you can glue it on a piece of wood.

I prefer Japanese water stones, for $18-$25 only get brand names, a good budget brand is King by Matsunaga,

In general 400/1000 is a good combination, as well as 600/1500

If needed I use a coarse Aluminum oxide stone, or a “Puck” not sure what is the grit, but it is pretty soft and cheap $5

But mostly I just use the 1000 King water stone for around $15-$20

Not sure what country you are shipping to but here are some decent stones:

250/1000 King

300 King

Single grit King stones

Hello,
I plan to buy a waterstone to practice freehand sharpening. Probably a double-sided one with coarse + medium grit. (maybe in future I buy fine grit but right now I think coarse + medium is okay for pocket knives)

404 page

Does anyone have experience of this Y-Sharp brand ?

If you can choose only one, which would it be?
400/1000
600/1500 ?

Thanks

2_DOGS · 2018-03-07T21:26:17.000Z

Arkansas stones are my favorite, I use a pocket sized ark. white that gives small knives a really good edge.
Not what you’re asking but I just ordered one of these Lansky clones for $23 for a friend to try.
Ruixin Pro III

varbos · 2018-03-07T23:22:19.000Z

Thanks for info and suggestions.

I think I can get the King 250/1000 grit combo stone for about €24 shipped to me. That’s not too bad; maybe it’s what I will get.

BrightKen · 2018-03-08T20:36:04.000Z

I use the Spyderco Sharpmaker. No angles to worry about and easy to use.
I tried freehand and can’t do a good job. The Sharpmaker also leave the factory grind, it only sharpens the very edge.

bushmaster · 2018-03-08T20:59:28.000Z

BrightKen:

I use the Spyderco Sharpmaker. No angles to worry about and easy to use.
I tried freehand and can’t do a good job. The Sharpmaker also leave the factory grind, it only sharpens the very edge.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2DDpB8Pjho

I’ve used various versions of those for over 40 years. When they first came out, they were called “crock sticks”. They work great. A total beginner can put a razor edge on a knife the first time. The base material is very important however. Some models with softer plastic or soft wood bases don’t hold up well. The pressure on the sticks eventually starts to make the holes egg-shaped and the angle of the sticks change. Other than that, I love them.

RobertB · 2018-03-08T23:49:28.000Z

I have the 1000-4000 stone from BearMoo, which looks like the exact stones from y-start.

I really like the 1000-4000, but plan on buying the 3000-8000 as well. These stones work very well and are not cheap garbage.

Get yourself a leather strop also. I made two strops. One for smaller knives, and one for large kitchen knives and my small forest axe.

patmurris · 2018-03-08T22:22:00.000Z

varbos:

Thanks for info and suggestions.

I think I can get the King 250/1000 grit combo stone for about €24 shipped to me. That’s not too bad; maybe it’s what I will get.

I’m still a newbie at sharpening blades… but it seems to me 250 is really coarse. Unless you need to reshape a damaged edge, i would stay away from that side. Something like 500/1000 would seem more appropriate for general knife sharpening i would think.

In any case, and as for flashlights, you better be prepared at buying quite a few stones and other sharpening tools…

varbos · 2018-03-08T23:37:21.000Z

BrightKen:

I use the Spyderco Sharpmaker.

I have a sharpmaker already. It’s pretty good but regardless I want to try manual sharpening on a whetstone.

Macka17 · 2018-03-09T01:33:37.000Z

Hi.
76yr old. ex pro shooter, knife freak. in Australia.
Had\have knives from $2 specials as a kid to $600plus Japanese Damascus kitchen (Several), Puma, and some Custom items.

Stones. wheels, strops etc, Fine,
But painstakingly slow and need a LOT of practice, experience to give a skin peeling edge every time.

I peel “fine” layers of skin from my skin for testing. MUCH better indicator of edge, Harder to get on Western Steel. easy on Japanese. Puma blades easy.

For last 10\15 yrs I’ve used Diamond plates on an angled base.
ALWAYS same angle, which you can set up in seconds for
each blade.
Still have old stones I keep for nostalgia. Oil and Whet.
But there really is No comparison.
A coupla seconds on suitable diamond plate.
gives you equal finish edge to Multiple minutes on stones and unless using a guide. Not so precise an angle.

I finish for daily use on 2 x Steels (12in) One a 600grit Diamond.
T’other. a “smooth” finish Crystal coated Steel. Like (is) glass.
They smoother\finer, than the Ceramic ones.
I sharpen wife’s kitchen knives. Wusthof and Japanese, around every 6 months or so. Steels keep them up to a shaving edge
for that long.

Go to a knife shop with your SECOND fav blade and try…

I bought a “RUIXIN PRO” Angle blade sharpener off net yrs ago
(Cheap… To try. Still using) Comes with stones. Junk….
I modified carrier to take my mix of DMT. and THK Diamond plates. Coarse.Med. Fine. Extra fine and smooth.

IF you DO want to persevere with the old school Whet Stones. Do yourself a favour. and buy an angled “guide” to suit,
Clips on spine of blade. For Western or Japanese Blades.
Differing bevel angles. (Long and short to suit blade lengths)
At least you’ll get a constant angle that way.

Have fun.
I spent near 50 yrs on stones till I got educated.
And old, Army 3in leather belt makes best strop.

Macka17 · 2018-03-09T01:41:03.000Z

Addendum.
Best stones would be the “Arkansas?”
or good Japanese “WaterStones”, Better.

And bloody dearer.
I found long grain, Grey or Black Slate. cut to shape on water blade. made very good stones.
Area of supply makes a difference.

copperheaded · 2018-03-09T01:51:46.000Z

I highly recommend getting a Norton Crystolon JB6 or JB8 and watch this video: https://youtu.be/cWU_qTp3DLM

If you must get a waterstone: King 1000/6000 or 1000/4000

ChrisGarrett · 2018-03-09T01:52:59.000Z

Macka17:

Addendum.
Best stones would be the “Arkansas?”
or good Japanese “WaterStones”, Better.

And bloody dearer.
I found long grain, Grey or Black Slate. cut to shape on water blade. made very good stones.
Area of supply makes a difference.

What stone you use is totally dependent on the steel used in the knife.

Today’s 3rd Gen. super steels like Bohler 390/Elmax, CPM S110v/M4, CTS 204P all have harder carbides, since they’re designed for high speed tool bits found in end mills and the like, where tip deformation is a problem.

Like you said above, diamond plates are preferable, since typical stones won’t be hard enough to break down 3rd Gen. carbides.

For regular 1095, S30V, or VG10, traditional stone material is fine.

Chris

leaftye · 2018-03-09T02:05:42.000Z

It’s not really about the stone being hard. Either it needs to be so hard and durable that it doesn’t glaze, or it needs to release media at least as fast as it glazes so that sharp grains are available to keep metal removal rate high. In grinding stone parlance you want a softer grade as the metal gets harder.

Macka17 · 2018-03-09T15:12:00.000Z

Stone. Steel. Diamond Whatever. No matter HOW sharp you can get it on the tools.
The edge of any Knife is only as good as the metal in it.

Soft, Rubbish steel. blunts from first stroke of use.
Good Quality European steel (Wusthoff as example).
Holds a decent working edge, for a decent period of time, with a Blunter\steeper edge angle so as to use with heavier cuts and very little edge damage.

The Japanese style steels and blades are much more exotic blends
With usually a centre core of VG10. White. Blue of differing grades of carbon blends.
Super hard. 61 upwards. BUT tend to have little or no Rust protection. Plus the cuttting edges, tips. Can chip.
(Hence the centre core of differing steels.)
I’ve never been involves with tool steel material in blades,
Apart from The power Hachsaw blades we used breakoffs from to make the “BEST” Skinning knives for Deer. Buff’s, Cattle and Pigs in the ’60’s to ’90’s.
They held a all day edge with just a wipe on steel over a half dozen or more Buff’s.