I order one with a 219. I get a box labelled as Nichia.
I’m happy.
I ordered three more - one 219, two SST. I got three boxes all labelled as SST.
incorrect SST returned.
I order a replacement 219. I get an unlabelled box. Since both the original and the SSTs had labels, I’m suspicious and open the fronts.
On the left is one I am fairly confident is a 219. On the right is one I’m quite confident is an SST. What is the one in the middle that was supposed to be a 219 but doesn’t match either of the known emitters? “”
What are your guesses on what I was sent this time?
On a side note, I was OK with the mildly messed up knurling on one of the SST lights, but what I suspect are two in a row mis-shippings is getting me cranky.
The damage didn’t come out very well in this pic - but it looks like the knurling was flattened out a bit pre-annodizing. :-/
Aw crud. I either have to suck it up and keep a light I didn’t really want, or return it AGAIN and see if the shipping dude can get it right a THIRD time!
How hard is it to swap emitters between FW3 heads? Since I want my TK models to be Nichia, I’ll either have to swap drivers or re-flash, right?
Reflowing isn’t very difficult even with a basic hot plate or frying pan, though the Lumintop MCPCBs have a rather soft mask. You’ll probably want some solder paste. If you’re talking about 219B, flashing the firmware to a lower output version allows you to safely use any cell you want, but as long as you stick to lower current cells like NCR18650GA the stock firmware works ok. You don’t need to change anything for 219C.
However… the seller should be sending you the correct light, express, or providing a partial refund. Two wrong lights in a row is unacceptable. The knurling damage is also rather unfortunate.
I was referring to swapping the entire emitter (and probably driver) assembly from a light that has the right setup. Yes, this would mean I’d have to buy a different light with a Nichia in it, but hey - look at the crowd I’m in. Having another ‘spare’ light with a different emitter would not be a huge hardship.
If you got a new MCPCB with the right LEDs on it, it is just two wires that need to be unsoldered then resoldered. Pretty standard stuff for the most part if you are comfortable with soldering. If you’re wanting 219B’s, you’d have to source them and put them in yourself anyway. Definitely follow the above advice on protecting those emitters with the special firmware or lower drain battery if you do though. I think there is a post around here with some for sale if you go that route.
Sorry - I’m not throwing a vendor under the bus while the situation is still open. Now that I know what the situation is, I’ve opened a conversation about it.
All I want is the stock high CRI Nichia that they come with stock. Nothing fancy.
You know… it just struck me. I have no idea which XPL-HI color temp this might be. That straddles the border between Annoying and Nope.
You guys have me curious… how do I tell the difference between the 219Cs and the SST-20s? Looking at the first post, I don’t see much difference between top and bottom.
EDIT:
looking closely, maybe the dome is bigger on the 219c?
I recently purchased a used NS22 to use as a host for a quad — the seller thought he had a SST 4K but it ended up being more a 3K (he hated it ) —- I already had a 4K version plus I purchased 35 / 4K emitters —- this light was way warmer and rosier—Go figure I like it
Yes, very easy to differentiate once you know how they look like. Have a look here : LEDs & Other Stuff - (Reference Guide)
8th column, raw 4 = SST20
8th column, raw 5 = 219C
