Which one is your favorite AA flashlight

jon_slider · 2025-09-30T22:16:12.696Z

Neon_Sunset:

I like sapphire lenses

me too!

it was rather expensive to buy a 1mm x 19.3mm Sapphire lens for my Zebra (and I had to rely on McBob to open the light for me)

no_motor · 2025-09-30T22:34:52.901Z

I like that format too. Even a 200 lumen light serves most of my needs today when I check in the outside cat food or look under the couch. I use them in a couple of radios too, they only need charging every few weeks.

RichH · 2025-09-30T22:40:49.718Z

I like that out of 11 lights in the poll, hardly any of them get a mention

Just a nod to the Convoy T6 and the Pokémon, we’re mainly Wurkkos TS10, HD10 and Hanklights D3AA. Of which I do have an assortment of 11

Mandrake50 · 2025-09-30T22:57:42.261Z

The only one I have on his list is the Pokelit. While it is a very nice light for what it is. It is not at the top of my list for AA lights.

Ledhead · 2025-09-30T23:52:27.696Z

Both of the silver ones are T3’s?
Nice collection. I need a zeba

zoulas · 2025-10-01T00:07:25.295Z

If you want the best, its gonna cost you.

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Neon_Sunset · 2025-10-01T00:50:44.148Z

Thanks for the link, that’s a great range of sizes they stock! There’s peace of mind and confidence with sapphire.
There is a manufacturer that will do special sizes, even one~offs, but it’s not cheap. Not affiliated in any way other than being a retail customer through their distributors.

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Neon_Sunset · 2025-10-01T00:56:31.281Z

Yes, one has a 4500k 519a and the other has a KW CSLNM1 for throw. Really good lights, hope to try the ramping drivers next .

Neon_Sunset · 2025-10-01T01:04:49.111Z

I like the wonderful choice of chemistries, availability, accessibility of the venerable AA .

Ledhead · 2025-10-01T01:32:21.382Z

Which clip set-up do you prefer?

Neon_Sunset · 2025-10-01T02:38:04.514Z

I prefer the screw on clip, can be bent to personal preference for tension.

Kraids · 2025-10-01T09:13:38.922Z

Convoy T7, fantastic dual fuel light with on board charging. I swapped the emitter for a 3000k SST-20 and a 20 or 30⁰ beaded TIR (i forget which is in it) and it is a fantastic pocket light

mcjtom · 2025-10-01T09:58:24.314Z

Wurkkos HD12? Just ‘tested’ the runtime on Turbo with Vapecell F15 battery.

After 2 min Turbo (perhaps ~800 lm), it steps down to High (some 300 lm, decreasing slowly to maybe 200 over an hour, which is flat enough), then drops to some 50 lm and gets dimmer slowly for the next 6 hours down to Moon-ish - all useful light - until LVP at 2.6 V turns it off.

For comparison, Convoy T6 SFT25R 5000 K with Vapecell H10 does turbo for a minute or so at maybe close to 1500 lm, then steps down to about constant ⅓ of it for 40 min, when it starts blinking and shuts itself off at 45 min, at 2.8 V.

HD12 got bad press on account of the 14500 driver reportedly being the brute-tish FET/PWM variety. It could theoretically be made a little more efficient, but practically it seems to work very well and inspires confidence that the light will not deprive me of at least some lighting when I least expect it. That’s even more important for a headlamp, I think.

I’m about to swap white emitters to 519a 5000 K. I wonder how that would affect how the LED/driver combination will work. Not sure what the original LEDs (Luminpower, some 3535 higher CRI variety?) or if their Vf/current ratios are much different at the voltages that the HD12 driver provides (with F15 battery).

this-is-nascar · 2025-10-01T10:02:57.649Z

Skilhunt M150 v3 (don’t have the v4 yet) seems to do well. I don’t EDC it, but what I always liked about the light is that the lowest mode brightness stays consistent regardless of battery type used.

NightTime · 2025-10-01T10:05:43.518Z

Looking at the size of the GT Micro, wouldn’t a KR1 make more sense at this point? Unless weight or the ability to use AA batteries is important to you for an EDC light. I know it’s all about compromise so it depends where yours are.

acobp · 2025-10-01T10:21:16.100Z

I have T7 and I like it but I don’t like that it isn’t stabilized on 14500, output drops with voltage.
It is very usable, has good tint and nice wide beam but it need stabilized driver.

HiramTse · 2025-10-01T11:58:45.786Z

nicodimus22:

The T6 should still be fine if you want something slimmer, as long as you’re cool with a bigger hotspot and less throw.

I have one T6 with 519A chip, i like the beam, but it seems it will be hot after 1-2 minutes. I also have a Mark 1BS, it is much cool when set at 700 lumen.

HiramTse · 2025-10-01T13:22:08.459Z

I have bought one new AA light, now it is on the road. Will review soon.

mcjtom · 2025-10-01T14:12:11.762Z

Just want to add:

If one starts the HD12 on turbo and lets it run, the green light battery indicator turns red (for 5 s on turn) after about an hour (more or less coinciding with the second drop down), at 3.55 V.

The blinking red comes on (this time constantly, not only when turning the light on) a few minutes more than an hour and a half into the run, at 3.2 V.

The light will keep going fore another ~5 hours, until it shuts off when the battery voltage drops to 2.6 V.

Quite reliable runtime profile (with useful battery level indication scheme, once you figure out what it means) for a practical headlamp, I’d say.

Needs to be compared, but I think the F15 battery may deserve some credit. @PiercingTheDarkness: did you have a chance to use HD12 with F15 vs. the OEM?

Chris100575 · 2025-10-01T14:49:26.747Z

For the same lumen output a cool white, low-CRI emitter will not heat up as much as a high-CRI emitter like a 519a.