Which pocket thrower is better?

oweban · 2019-06-17T03:29:44.000Z

GT Mini is great - get a Flat White (and gasket) on a 20mm mcpcb from intl-outdoor, mtnelectronics, swap that out, and watch the candela go through the roof.

If you’ve got the gear and are also feeling tricky, reflash with Anduril

Igor · 2019-06-17T03:45:18.000Z

oweban:

GT Mini is great - get a Flat White (and gasket) on a 20mm mcpcb from intl-outdoor, mtnelectronics, swap that out, and watch the candela go through the roof.

If you’ve got the gear and are also feeling tricky, reflash with Anduril

Hi, where can I find details on how to do that?

oweban · 2019-06-17T03:50:59.000Z

Igor:

oweban:

GT Mini is great - get a Flat White (and gasket) on a 20mm mcpcb from intl-outdoor, mtnelectronics, swap that out, and watch the candela go through the roof.

If you’ve got the gear and are also feeling tricky, reflash with Anduril

Hi, where can I find details on how to do that?

This was a guide I found:

Need step-by-step guide for idiots on how to flash Emisar D4 with Anduril Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts

Hey guys, I think I can help here. This guide should work for anyone using Windows10. Step 1: get your appropriate driver from: Index of /torches/fsm , rename it something easy like D4S.hex (or what ever your light is) Step 2: get WinAVR from: https://sourceforge.net/projects/winavr/ , install it to the root of your C: drive. Take your hex file from the previous step and copy it into the WinAVR folder that has now been installed on your C: drive. Step 3: get Zadig from: https://zadig.akeo.ie…

You need three parts - a USBASP device, some cables, and a SOIC clip:

Parts needed to flash the Lumintop FW3A

I'm looking for a specific parts list to buy so that I can flash the FW3A. I know I have to get an AVR programmer and a SOIC-8 clip. However, I...

I got mine off AliExpress all from ALL ELECTRONICS MALL - image of the parts I got here.

I haven’t done it myself yet (clip is still a few days away), but it shouldn’t be too hard - TK has the pre-built hex file for it.

goshdogit · 2019-06-17T03:51:10.000Z

I owned both, but recently sold my GT Mini.

I much prefer the switch of the D1S. It’s larger and feels nicer.

The D1S has a (slightly) tighter hotspot, too.

I can’t comment on the firmware differences. I put Andúril on both of them as soon as they arrived.

Igor · 2019-06-17T04:15:36.000Z

oweban:

Igor:

oweban:

GT Mini is great - get a Flat White (and gasket) on a 20mm mcpcb from intl-outdoor, mtnelectronics, swap that out, and watch the candela go through the roof.

If you’ve got the gear and are also feeling tricky, reflash with Anduril

Hi, where can I find details on how to do that?

This was a guide I found:

Need step-by-step guide for idiots on how to flash Emisar D4 with Anduril - #15 by amars7

You need three parts - a USBASP device, some cables, and a SOIC clip:

Parts needed to flash the Lumintop FW3A : flashlight

I got mine off AliExpress all from ALL ELECTRONICS MALL - image of the parts I got here.

I haven’t done it myself yet (clip is still a few days away), but it shouldn’t be too hard - TK has the pre-built hex file for it.

Actually I mean on how to change the LED to get more throw. But thanks anyway for the big effort and time!

oweban · 2019-06-17T04:24:05.000Z

Igor:

Actually I mean on how to change the LED to get more throw. But thanks anyway for the big effort and time!

Oh! Well if you get the White Flat on 20mm (here’s an example), then you just open the top of the light, drop out the reflector, desolder the old one (positive and negative wires), and solder the new one in. You’ll need thermal paste too for between the MCPCB and the light itself.

I don’t have any pictures of all opened up right now, but can probably take some in about 5 hours or so. I still need to order my white flat though

EDIT:: Although the led4power link doesn’t look like it has gaskets. intl-outdoor and mtnelectronics do though. Because it’s a 3030 emitter, getting a gasket is a bit harder…

Igor · 2019-06-17T04:31:15.000Z

Thanks, it should be very straight forward. I just didn’t find gaskets at into-outdoor website.

oweban · 2019-06-17T04:33:27.000Z

Igor:

Thanks, it should be very straight forward. I just didn’t find gaskets at into-outdoor website.

It’s a little tickbox on there

Igor · 2019-06-17T04:35:36.000Z

Thank you!

polarweis · 2019-06-17T07:37:28.000Z

I have a flat white in my clear ano convoy c8 and throw is amazing. So if you want to go cheap, thats also a possibility.

Igor · 2019-06-17T09:47:38.000Z

I already have a GT mini, so it’s easier.

polarweis · 2019-06-17T09:50:48.000Z

Igor:

I already have a GT mini, so it’s easier.

Yeah but you cant run the flat white on to high amps. I think 4.5 amp max so you would have to swap driver.

oweban · 2019-06-17T09:55:53.000Z

GT Mini FET caps out at 4.5A from memory…

Edit:: I may be wrong… reading into it again.

Edit 2:

Texas_Ace:

I just took a reading with my light and the swapped LED and got 4.5A without bypasses. Basically what I would expect and what they rated it at.

polarweis · 2019-06-17T11:26:39.000Z

Ow oke. So it is limited by the current that can travel through the springs?

oweban · 2019-06-17T11:36:17.000Z

Sounds like it - the tailcap is double spring where the driver side is a single (albeit shallow) spring. By bypassing it or doing a double-spring mod you should get more light, but it’ll just heat up faster, and not be super noticeable anyway.

Looking at TA’s XPL HI review, it seems that going from 4.5A to 5.5A is only ~ 160 extra lumens, or ~11% more (that’s on a CW emitter) - only slightly noticeable. But going from 4.5 to 5.5A on a flat white, it looks like you actually lose about 40 lumens , or around 4.5%.

Either way, if I can hit 4.5A consistent with a flat white, I’m happy and with Anduril, I’ll be far happier than with any of the UIs I’ve found on Convoys so far.

polarweis · 2019-06-17T12:09:33.000Z

Yeah anduril is way nicer. I put a single mode driver in it with 9x7135 and both springs bypassed. With full battery it gets hot after 5 min.

BurningPlayd0h · 2019-06-17T19:41:52.000Z

GT Mini wiring and driver can DEFINITELY supply more than 4.5A.

Without a clamp meter you’re not getting the full reading of the current and some emitters like XPL HI will pull less current than others anyway.

oweban · 2019-06-17T22:06:13.000Z

Interesting - will have to look into it. Might even be a way to modify Anduril to PWM it down. Will research further before putting the emitter in.

CREEXHP70LED · 2019-06-19T02:55:48.000Z

I want to buy the flat white and a GT Mini, but I am guessing a driver switch would be needed also for this mod because it is going to push more than 4-4.5 Amps. Is this correct?

CREEXHP70LED · 2019-06-19T03:00:09.000Z

polarweis:

Igor:

I already have a GT mini, so it’s easier.

Yeah but you cant run the flat white on to high amps. I think 4.5 amp max so you would have to swap driver.

If I did get the new C8 the tan version, what is that driver pushing in amps? Can I just buy a flat white and install it like I would the GT mini, just do an emitter swap for the flat white, and if so is it going to use the 20mm also?

This is my first mod on a factory light without building it from the ground up and only did that a couple times.