If anyone did not already recommen "micro.digital", I will:
Ordered half a dozen, all good, all with thermal paste, all with O-ring as the zoom slide.
(I like it better than the metal wire that was used some time ago in some versions...)
I dont think it does take 26650, it does not look like the handle is fat enough, and all the ones I saw said 18650 and 3xAAA when I looked. I assumed the included tube meant it took 26650s and bought one light, but I found it wasnt the case: looks like this light is similar. PS: test a 26650 plz?
About the light though, yeah its not the best, but it outshines sk68 and 98 and 26650/18650 compatibility and cheap was my priority.
I’m glad to hear yours doesnt melt itself, but its the only light I’ve seen that complaint from several people on several different sites and it made me run far away and never want to recommend it to anyone! Looks like you got a good one or dont use it on high for long enough to melt. I use high most of the time on that kind of light, and dont want to hand someone a light which can melt (backup light is also a “friend forgot hers” light).
I think maybe sk98 should be on the list of sk68 and Skyray Kung: lights that are so random you need to think of ordering one as gambling. You may luck out with your order and get something great, or get one thats so crappy you may as well have gambled and lost the money completely, or anything in between.
Have you tried the Keygos M12? takes a 26650.
—> Have you tried the Keygos M12? takes a 26650.
Tks, no I haven’t, but on looking it up it looks like 2-3+x the price. Dirt cheap ($8) was also part of the strategy for the one I bought, I’m sure its probably a better light than the one I listed. 
Nope, I don’t have a 26650 to test with. Its tube seems like about the same diameter as my gold-bezeled light though, and their 3xAAA caddies and 18650 spacers are interchangeable.
Well, thanks for looking. However, I’m still very cautious against buying it for 26650 use unless its specifically confirmed. I thought exactly the same thing about the one I bought, (I forget the model, Ultrafire and I got rid of it) but 26650 would not fit: to accommodate the 3xAAA ‘caddy’, the tube hole is then too large for the 18650, so the 18650 needed a spacer to fit without lots of rattle, but a 26650 still would not fit. The 18650 tube/spacer for the 26650 light was thicker. Frustrating waste of purchase, and I couldnt really return it.
Inside measure with calipers?
I got a single mode clone from TomTop yesterday and took some measurements from the driver before swapping it out. I was surprised to see that it drives the XR-E to over 400 mA with fresh cells.
I rarely have any luck looking up Chinese components, but a quick google search of “2803 SOT-23” brought up this driver.
PAM2803
Just judging by the example circuit and switching frequency, it looks like match.
Neat little chip. Max input voltage of 6V, although they recommend that you keep it 0.2V below the voltage drop the LED. It also has an enable pin, so there might be a similar design in the UF 3 mode lights.
I’m pretty happy with the light overall. There’s just a few chips in the black finish and the threads are a little rough. I though I read somewhere that this vendor was selling the model with a metal clip around the pill, but this one has an o-ring and it has a nice firm/smooth zoom.
Guys what I’m looking for is an AA version of the light with XML. Its for a gift and the 1x AA will be readily available for the guy. He had a sk68 clone which I gave him and it died out after like 1 year of use. Great bargain still for the price.
So, I’m going to get one for him but was looking if there is an AA XML version. What is brighter? The 1 or 3 mode model?
I’ve never seen a pre-assembled version with both AA and XM-L. You’ll probably have to mod a SK-68 to add XM-L to it, and even then I’m not sure what the point would be… it wouldn’t really end up being much if any brighter on the wide setting, the narrow mode would be dim and wide compared to the original, and parts might not fit together very well due to the increased size.
A model with XP-G2 might work out okay, but I expect it wouldn’t have much benefit aside from being harder to kill it with heat. That’s not usually much of an issue with a SK-68 anyway though, unless it’s being driven by good-quality 14500 batteries.
Well I’m starting to come around on this light, after tossing in an AW brand 14500 and setting the focus as tight as possible. Outside it really throws an impressive beam, I’ll give it that. I ordered a real Sipik to hopefully get something with a little better quality, and I’m planning on swapping out an XP-G2 and sticking with the 14500s. I’ve already got a buddy who wants the old one.
I agree on the less-than-usefulness of an XM-L in this light. The XM-L works very well in flood type light, and I like it in my headlamp, but this SK68 seems like more of a cheap thrower, as even the widest beam isn’t all that useful on mine. An XP-G2 coupled with a quality 14500 sounds about ideal, which is what I think I’ll do!
I’ve used one at work for 2 1/2 years and I use it mostly on flood indoors. Throw is only really useful outdoors or in very large rooms.
The reason I don’t like the flood mode is the hard cutoff around the edges due to the aspheric lens. I prefer a gradual cutoff near the edges, one that sort of matches your field of vision I guess.
If you like a wider flood with softer edges, you can simply remove the bezel and lens from the SK-68. It makes a pretty good “mule” light. Just try not to touch the emitter.
My main use of a SK-68 these days is to project images. Print an image onto transparency paper, put it into the SK-68 just under the lens, set it on maximum throw, and shine it into a loupe / magnifying glass. If you focus it correctly, it should project the image on the transparency rather far into the distance.
Great for a Bat Signal.
You’re correct, the 838 doesn’t take 26650. It just doesn’t fit.
Mine is from Wallbuys at $8+ last time. Other than the 26650 thing, I am a big fan of the light. Very nice floody, yet still bright beam. Tight spot. Nice mode spacing, and no visible pwm.
I did however needed to add a resistor to change next-mode-memory to always-start-high, but after that, it’s an instant favourite.
On another topic, XM-L in SK68 body really don’t go very well. I’ve done it before, and I’m pretty sure have also read a few conversion around here with dismal result as well. The result can be summarized as… “Meh”. There are lots of SK68 with XPE around nowadays, those give better non-ringy beam, IMO you should try those instead.
I think you’ll like that one . . before you do it, test the current draw on the old and new with 14500 and try to sure it’s somewhere from 1.5A (6W) to 2A (8W) or up. Lower will be OK, longer run time but not as bright. You may be able to cherry-pick the best parts before you give the old one away.
Seems odd that the SK68 clone is still the best. I’ve got an UltraOK sk68 clone as well as the bigger brighter 502b. sk68 is my EDC, 502b I played with some and like how bright it is, but too big to carry. I am about to order another sk68 clone as a backup spare.
My unbranded sk68 arrived today from Tmart. Seems nice.
I’m really fascinated with my purchase, some people have criticized me but I have not had any problems with my flashlight, I recommend it