Why Loctite? Because high horsepower need it!

Check this video starting from 2:31 onward. So they put Loctite all over the screws, bolts and nuts on this “Mr. No Respect” horsepower monster. I guess that loosening of just a screw might lead to dreadful consequence.


Be grateful that they did Loctite your Nitecore, Fenix, and even the screws on SP03 handle, so that you can use them safely without explosion!

Yes, external fasteners. But for the critical fasteners inside the engine, Loctite has no place there.

The highly stressed fasteners inside like rod & mains, and head bolts/studs, work because they are stretched like a spring. They have to be stretched enough that they still provide a clamping force when static, yet not become over-stretched when under load. It's a very finely balanced thing.

But the installation method only indirectly approximates the amount of stretch. The twisting force applied when tightening will only give the correct amount of stretch if the friction between all the mating surfaces is exactly the same as the engineering tests that correlated a certain amount of torque to give a certain amount of stretch, and if the friction is changed the stretch will change too. So if the specs call for a certain lubricant, say moly lube or 30wt oil, and you replace that with Loctite, you just changed the amount of stretch even though you apply the same force with a torque wrench, and while the Loctite may stop the nut from loosening that doesn't matter if the shank of the stud was over (or under) stretched and fails. The nut still attached to the stud does no good if the parts end up sitting in the bottom of the oil pan.

i doubt loctite is that strong, i would be impressed if it could hold a 2lb picture on a wall for a year

I have seen a 7/16" ARP 8740 chrome moly stud twist in half before the nut installed with the permanent red Loctite broke loose. So yes, it can be 'that strong', they make different grades for different applications. Some are for fasteners that require frequent disassembly, some are meant for things that will never be taken apart ever.


locktite has precisely zero positive uses on your average flashlight.

its purely there to irritate frustrated lumen junkies.

if my hand starts vibrating like four solid mounted top fuel v8 engines, I’m going to be more concerned about whats causing THAT than if my light remains both functional and in one piece……

Can Loctite really help contain an explosion? I would imagine the flashlight breaking at the weakest points. Loctite is useful for parts that can work loose over time, or as a tamper deterrent in consumer goods.

not at all. the lense and switch would soon let go, and the charging port on the pipe bombs high end lights people seem to get excited about.

This is one of my pet hates.

we use cells that can vent lots of noxious gas/flame.

we make flashlights as sealed as possible to prevent water/dust ingress in harsh conditions.

which complete and total f*wit thought the best place for these cells to charge was in that sealed tube.

then we get to the other point. if a cell goes bad, the created overpressure HAS to go somewhere, no matter what you do, it has to escape and equalise.

so tell me, how is it better to make it harder for that pressure to equalise with atmospheric pressure? all it means is a much greater pressure difference when it eventually does equalise, greater pressure differences are only good IF you are the one videoing this for youtube from a safe distance, not the mug holding the pipebomb in front of the camera.

Don’t you people think that the Loctited screws of the SP03 handle can prevent explosion? Well, at least they wanted to make sure that your flashlight would always attached safely on the handle considering you might hold it when driving a top fuel dragster with massive G-Force. :bigsmile:

I would still not like to be holding that handle if some cells decided to vent!!

Be grateful that they did Loctite your Nitecore, Fenix, and even the screws on SP03 handle, so that you can use them safely without explosion!

Thanks, now it all makes sense. :bigsmile:

I’m a bit of a wimp when it comes to batteries, only well known (all Nitecore so far) makers and only one protected 18650 per light.
Primary cells I test the voltage and put all new cells in together, same type, same mAh, same maker, same with NiMH rechargeables.
It costs more and limits how many lights I can use at once, in power outages for example.
What does scare me is getting complacent and making a pipe bomb.

Loctite, I have Harleys so I’m a big fan of blue 242. Also it’s useful to have around for use in folding knives.

I’m used to building rc helicopters and there the rule is Loctite/Threadlock EVERYTHING! At least everything that’s bolted metal/metal.
Of course flashlights are a different thing altogether but it can be a hard habit to break! :slight_smile:

I also hate tearing appart lights that have been glued with threadlock but am occasionally guilty of applying a small drop of medium (blue) loctite myself if I really want a bolt or thread to stay put. On my BTU shocker build the two brass bolts holding the main handle rail to the battery tube even have a bit of red loctite on them. Not something I want to have loosen over time and I know I can still remove them if I ever needed to, a bit of heat and force is all it takes.