I'm very confused...
"If you don't go microscopically thin there is almost no chance of poor conductivity" - that means you assume it will have low resistance, since conductivity is the inverse of resistivity.
"What current would sustain is however another thing." - that means you assume it will have high resistance, since the only thing that can impede current is resistance. I=V/R.
Which are you suggesting?
PPtk
I ordered, received and tested it: I made a track of ~2cm length and ~2mm thickness... it had >1kOhm resistance. I wouldn't use it for LED currents - if you do so, be sure to have very short (<1mm) an very wide (several mm) and thick (>1mm in height) 'blobs'. I still would prefer soldering.
OK for signal tracks though (e.g. those config solder bridges some drivers have).
right, it is a budget alternative to the adhesive's that contain silver (like this from same seller) - which I would guess are still mechanically and electrically inferior to solder.
it is useful where solder won't work (ok...eventually I'll get solder that works on aluminum) and you can't apply heat. I think the idea is that your connection has metal to metal contact, and this is for holding it in place without insulating, like most other adhesives would do.
Dr Jones, I'm curious how long you let it dry before measuring resistance- and if you still have that bead if you could measure it again.
I'm wondering how long before it reaches max conductivity (which would vary a lot, based on thickness...).
I tried some similar testing but my MM isn't good enough for meaningful results.
availible from Conrad for those living in Europe
It's a conundrum riddle! Anyway I think Budgeteer meant you NEED to go microscopic in order to eliminate any chance of poor conductivity.
Microscopic carbon, hmm... as in... toner dust? I wonder... can it work? Toner dust + epoxy = conductive glue? Toner dust is very, very thin. I refill my own toners, and inhaled enough dust to vouch that statement. And to warn whoever tries this to use proper mask. :)
I thought you were going to use it to solder the wires.
dthrckt: I waited several hours before measuring the resistance.
After wrecking a P60 module trying to solder the driver to the pill (cheap iron and inexperienced) I ordered some of this. I only want it to glue in the driver and assure that it completes the ground circuit to the pill. Will I be okay with this?
Thanks for the review Budgeteer. I like your style and my daughter likes your cat.
Thanks DrJones for the quick follow up.
If PilotPTK is confused I think we should pack our bags and go home.
the bulk resistivity/conductivity of this stuff vs. lead solder vs. silver solder? This particular parameter is measured in ohm-m or ohm-cm.
With any of these you certainly you cannot depend on contact force to lower the contact resistance.
We’re really getting into Materials Science here.
How strong is it. Sounds a bit friable for actually joining separate parts. If it’s going to crack then that’s not so good. If it had any strength it might be a good replacement for JB Weld in Mag mods.
Not much strength, this thing is quite brittle when dry.
I doubt it will hold reliably, if what I received is the same as yours. But you could try anyway since you’ve ordered. IMO you’d be better off with soldering a bare copper braid to driver ground and let it squeeze the side tightly.