WTB Bright illuminated tailswitches

G0OSE · 2018-04-01T14:15:06.000Z

Yep I’m in the queue too! :+1: That rainbow one is fantastic, so is the other lol.

G0OSE · 2018-04-01T14:19:25.000Z

khas:

The ILC-0 tailcap switch led4power sells you “only” have to solder the spring.

If soldering isn’t your thing maybe you could ask him to do it for you.

I’d be ok with a spring to solder so I’ll have a look, thanks.

Lexel · 2018-04-01T15:13:49.000Z

I will set up my sales topic in the next few days

XXX-Man · 2018-04-01T15:47:36.000Z

Rainbow would be perfect for my colored S41S

Pulsar · 2018-04-01T15:49:36.000Z

pinkpanda3310:

led4power:

….I’m don’t know if it fits S41.

I just tried it in my manker E14 (same as S41) and it does not fit.

Why doesn’t it work, do you know?

MastyrOfPuppitz · 2018-04-15T15:03:05.000Z

Lexel:

I use boards that replace the washer, so they are way more effective than on the switch board

any color combination you want
green and blue based phosphor LEDs(white, pink, ice blue) are most efficient

Gen one with balance resistors and trimmers 2x3 LEDs
6 LED

8 LED rainbow

Gen. 2 version has a voltage regulator and trimmers for brightness adjustment

the v2 cross pattern for trimmers are ordered

Ok…Sooo…Those weren’t turnkey so where are the lead wires supposed to be soldered to (which I’ll have to have someone else solder)???

fireblade893 · 2018-04-15T17:31:55.000Z

I find this thread after just buying these

https://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-SCSS-BLF-X5X6-Flashlight-Lighting-Switch-For-DIY-p-1102279.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN

The rainbow ones look very cool.

Lexel · 2018-04-16T04:35:29.000Z

Positive wire gets to the tube contact
negative gets to the spring
replace washer with board and just connect to to both switch connections

pinkpanda3310 · 2018-04-16T11:21:01.000Z

Pulsar:

pinkpanda3310:

led4power:

….I’m don’t know if it fits S41.

I just tried it in my manker E14 (same as S41) and it does not fit.

Why doesn’t it work, do you know?

I guess it could be made to fit as it is close. Diameter is the problem, I think it would fit nicely otherwise. However, myself, I’m not willing to file down the switch nor open up the threads in the tail.

led4power · 2018-04-16T11:41:14.000Z

I will soon offer ILC-1 kit without brass ring at significantly lower price than assembled ILC-1, top and bottom pcbs have 16.5mm diameter , so such "ringless" ILC-1 should fit in more lights (brass ring is not really necessary, but without it switch and top pcb should be glued to prevent twisting).

pinkpanda3310 · 2018-04-16T11:42:27.000Z

Aah, that makes sense why the brass ring is there

g_sintornillos · 2018-04-16T12:33:28.000Z

pinkpanda3310:

Pulsar:

pinkpanda3310:

led4power:

….I’m don’t know if it fits S41.

I just tried it in my manker E14 (same as S41) and it does not fit.

Why doesn’t it work, do you know?

I guess it could be made to fit as it is close. Diameter is the problem, I think it would fit nicely otherwise. However, myself, I’m not willing to file down the switch nor open up the threads in the tail.

I can’t see the images
That’s how I see them

pinkpanda3310 · 2018-04-16T12:52:52.000Z

Try again…

Did it work?

If not - it’s just a pic of some measuring calipers in the tail cap and on the switch. ID of tail cap = 18.05mm OD of switch = 18.19mm

MastyrOfPuppitz · 2018-04-16T22:41:17.000Z

Lexel:

Positive wire gets to the tube contact
negative gets to the spring
replace washer with board and just connect to to both switch connections

How’s do you get to the spring when the board the switch is mounted on, is between it?

led4power · 2018-04-17T06:46:41.000Z

pinkpanda3310:

Try again… Did it work? If not - it’s just a pic of some measuring calipers in the tail cap and on the switch. ID of tail cap = 18.05mm OD of switch = 18.19mm

I see you didn't remove kapton tape from brass ring?

Lexel · 2018-04-17T09:18:19.000Z

MastyrOfPuppitz:

Lexel:

Positive wire gets to the tube contact
negative gets to the spring
replace washer with board and just connect to to both switch connections

How’s do you get to the spring when the board the switch is mounted on, is between it?

both contacts are on the switch

pinkpanda3310 · 2018-04-17T12:55:20.000Z

led4power:

I see you didn’t remove kapton tape from brass ring?

Doh! Good eyes led4. Without the tape it measures 18.08mm. I guess I could force it but since I don’t want the switch in that light I’m still not going to …

Depending on the machining it might well fit in other E14’s / S41’s :question:

led4power · 2018-04-17T13:09:24.000Z

I don't have any of those lights, are tailcap parts compatible with Convoy(especially threads)?

pinkpanda3310 · 2018-04-17T14:19:17.000Z

I couldn’t tell you, I don’t have any convoy lights (yeh, I know, a blf’er without a convoy :zipper_mouth_face: )

MastyrOfPuppitz · 2018-04-17T15:18:41.000Z

Lexel:

MastyrOfPuppitz:

Lexel:

Positive wire gets to the tube contact
negative gets to the spring
replace washer with board and just connect to to both switch connections

How’s do you get to the spring when the board the switch is mounted on, is between it?

both contacts are on the switch

Can you post pics at different angles of one soldered to switch contacts?