WTS: Calibration lights for DIY integrating spheres / lumen tubes - 67 € -

hcanning · 2019-12-30T09:21:41.000Z

Hi guys,

After a little break from the lumen measuring game, I have binned the crappy old lumen tube I made, and built myself an integrating sphere.

One 25cm polystyrene ball from Amazon and about an hour of my time later, and this is what I have crafted:

What the photos don’t show is some paper over the inside of the entry holes to bring the light level down a bit, as higher powered torches were saturating my meter.

It does appear that my meter’s accuracy is biased toward cool white as previously discussed, but when using the correction factor from my calibration S2+ for CW lights the figures appear spot on:

Olight M2R NW - 18800 lux - 0.08 cf - 1504lm
Olight X7R - 132000 lux - 0.08cf - 10560lm
Astrolux C8 - 14100 lux - 0.08 cf - 1128lm
BLF A6 w/ spring bypass - 20300 lux - 0.08cf - 1624lm

For warmer lights the correction factor from my calibration BLF 348 (0.07) was too low. I have considered a few lights which have consistent “known” lumen outputs and decided that a CF of 0.094 appears to work for now. This gives me the following:

Emisar D4s (XP-L HD 3D) - 51300lux - 4822lm
Emisar D4v2 (SST-20 5000k) - 45300lux - 4258lm
Emisar D18 (SST-20 5000k) - 148600lux - 13968lm
BLF FW3A (XPL HI 7A) - 28600lux - 2688lm
BLF Q8 (XPL HD 3D, bypassed springs, brass screws) - 66100lux - 6213lm

I know this is all going to give rough figures but I believe at this point I can at least be fairly accurate with my readings?

Is there anything I’m doing wrong or particularly need to improve?

Thanks!

JasonWW · 2019-12-30T09:41:09.000Z

That looks pretty similar to a JoshK Sphere. You probably want a filler panel that can go around your smaller lights and has a reflective panel to keep light in.

Mine is only good for about 900-1000 lumen before the meter gets saturated, but you can use a neutral density filter for higher powered lights.

hcanning · 2019-12-30T16:35:38.000Z

JasonWW:

That looks pretty similar to a JoshK Sphere. You probably want a filler panel that can go around your smaller lights and has a reflective panel to keep light in.

Mine is only good for about 900-1000 lumen before the meter gets saturated, but you can use a neutral density filter for higher powered lights.

I’ve actually been using some foam that I’ve cut to shape to stuff in the input hole which I use for small lights but just didn’t photograph it.

I have used some white paper over the holes to reduce the light saturation and might double up on it a couple more times. Is this acceptable as a cheaper (!) alternative to an ND filter?

Thanks!

contactcr · 2019-12-30T16:41:11.000Z

hcanning:

JasonWW:

That looks pretty similar to a JoshK Sphere. You probably want a filler panel that can go around your smaller lights and has a reflective panel to keep light in.

Mine is only good for about 900-1000 lumen before the meter gets saturated, but you can use a neutral density filter for higher powered lights.

I’ve actually been using some foam that I’ve cut to shape to stuff in the input hole which I use for small lights but just didn’t photograph it.

I have used some white paper over the holes to reduce the light saturation and might double up on it a couple more times. Is this acceptable as a cheaper (!) alternative to an ND filter?

Thanks!

White paper is probably fine but it will age and it’s not very durable. If you take care to keep it in good condition and not adjust it then it should be OK.

As JasonWW was trying to explain: Try white paper or foil on the underside of your foam and re-test a small light. I’d bet your readings will change some due to the foam absorbing some of the light instead of “integrating” it back into the sphere.

hcanning · 2019-12-30T16:44:05.000Z

contactcr:

hcanning:

JasonWW:

That looks pretty similar to a JoshK Sphere. You probably want a filler panel that can go around your smaller lights and has a reflective panel to keep light in.

Mine is only good for about 900-1000 lumen before the meter gets saturated, but you can use a neutral density filter for higher powered lights.

I’ve actually been using some foam that I’ve cut to shape to stuff in the input hole which I use for small lights but just didn’t photograph it.

I have used some white paper over the holes to reduce the light saturation and might double up on it a couple more times. Is this acceptable as a cheaper (!) alternative to an ND filter?

Thanks!

White paper is probably fine but it will age and it’s not very durable. If you take care to keep it in good condition and not adjust it then it should be OK.

As JasonWW was trying to explain: Try white paper or foil on the underside of your foam and re-test a small light. I’d bet your readings will change some due to the foam absorbing some of the light instead of “integrating” it back into the sphere.

Thank you - I’ll do some fiddling. Maybe I’ll make some little white cardboard inserts for various head sizes.

tristech · 2020-01-04T20:17:19.000Z

Please put me down for one. Thanks!

maukka · 2020-01-04T20:31:04.000Z

Five sets of 2x S2+ (CRI95 SST20 & CRI70 XM-L2) have arrived. I’ll have them ready to go soon.

If you need a thrower for integration testing, PM me. Shipping them internationally is expensive.

Unfortunately due to PayPal fees, shipping and more frequent customs charges I’ve had to raise the price from 64 € to 67 €.

maukka · 2020-01-22T06:22:35.000Z

The new batch is now measured and ready. 3 sets of lights are still available.

garrybunk · 2020-02-06T17:09:53.000Z

hcanning:

Hi guys,

After a little break from the lumen measuring game, I have binned the crappy old lumen tube I made, and built myself an integrating sphere.

One 25cm polystyrene ball from Amazon and about an hour of my time later, and this is what I have crafted:

What the photos don’t show is some paper over the inside of the entry holes to bring the light level down a bit, as higher powered torches were saturating my meter.

It does appear that my meter’s accuracy is biased toward cool white as previously discussed, but when using the correction factor from my calibration S2+ for CW lights the figures appear spot on:

Olight M2R NW - 18800 lux - 0.08 cf - 1504lm
Olight X7R - 132000 lux - 0.08cf - 10560lm
Astrolux C8 - 14100 lux - 0.08 cf - 1128lm
BLF A6 w/ spring bypass - 20300 lux - 0.08cf - 1624lm

For warmer lights the correction factor from my calibration BLF 348 (0.07) was too low. I have considered a few lights which have consistent “known” lumen outputs and decided that a CF of 0.094 appears to work for now. This gives me the following:

Emisar D4s (XP-L HD 3D) - 51300lux - 4822lm
Emisar D4v2 (SST-20 5000k) - 45300lux - 4258lm
Emisar D18 (SST-20 5000k) - 148600lux - 13968lm
BLF FW3A (XPL HI 7A) - 28600lux - 2688lm
BLF Q8 (XPL HD 3D, bypassed springs, brass screws) - 66100lux - 6213lm

I know this is all going to give rough figures but I believe at this point I can at least be fairly accurate with my readings?

Is there anything I’m doing wrong or particularly need to improve?

Thanks!

Hi hcanning, how is your sphere performing, specifically at higher output levels? Reason I ask is that I am seeing inconsistency with mine between lower lumen levels and higher lumen levels as posted here. I see your sphere has a complete opening at the luxmeter rather than just being pressed up against the foam like mine is (see pics of mine posted here). I also am not using any diffusion material in mine, nor am I blocking the entrance hole with anything other than the light itself (and maybe part of my hand at times. I need to figure out what I’ve done wrong with my sphere and how to correct it for more trustworthy results.

Thanks,
-Garry

maukka · 2020-07-12T08:12:25.000Z

One more set of 2x Convoy S2+, XM-L2 (low CRI, cool white) and SST20 (high CRI, neutral white) available from the latest batch. Price for the kit is still 67 € including international shipping.

TimMc · 2020-08-22T05:28:36.000Z

Interested

pol77 · 2020-10-07T15:24:45.000Z

I need to purchase a calibration kit please, as soon as you can manage. I am located in London.

I am interested in measuring all kind of lights, from 2000K 95+ CRI to 7500K 70 CRI. What calibration kit would you recommend for me? Do you think the CW low CRI + NW high CRI will work well?

maukka · 2020-10-07T15:44:59.000Z

Unfortunately I don’t have any lights in stock right now. There hasn’t been much interest lately and I don’t know when I will order the next batch.

pol77 · 2020-10-07T15:47:38.000Z

I can order what lights you need and have them delivered to your preferred address. Would that work for you?

maukka · 2020-10-07T16:45:25.000Z

That’ll work. I’ll hit you with a PM.

pol77 · 2020-10-07T16:57:04.000Z

Thanks. Let me know the details and I will make arrangements at once

maukka · 2021-01-10T16:59:39.000Z

After rummaging my stock I’ve found one S2+ & BLF348 kit for sale if someone’s interested.

edit: this is now reserved

TimMc · 2021-01-12T09:32:03.000Z

Lights arrived. Thanks!

maukka · 2021-01-12T09:41:13.000Z

Haha, goot to hear! What was that, 3-4 months?

TimMc · 2021-01-16T08:36:06.000Z

maukka:

What was that, 3-4 months?

Yeah, about 4 months. I thought it may have been lost :partying_face: