That’s an 18650 light
Which means usually its a protection/charge circuit spot welded onto a flat-top cell. The Nitecore usb 18650s are a bit overlength, like 67mm
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The black and orange HD10 are $21.99. I used “WKZHCODE5” and got 5% off my TS10 Max.
Hm? We’re not talking about the TS10?
Yeh, above, the “TS10 Max kit”. 18650??
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TS10 Max is a TS10 styled 18650 light, just released.
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Yes, so I was wondering if there will be problems with standard sized 18650s… Are there springs at both ends? (I doubt it).
We’ll find out if Terry answers my question, but I’m gonna assume it should work fine with regular 18650s. A spring should have more than 2mm of travel, don’t you think?
Either way it is relatively easy to solder a spring to the driver if it doesn’t have one and the tailspring is somehow too short.
I do think so, but I have lights that will disconnect power if bumped on the tail end. I could solder a spring on most drivers, but it can be iffy on others due to clearances. But that is not the point, the light needs to be able to function properly with any 18650 cell out of the box and with no modification. Lots of people that may buy the light can’t or really don’t want to do something like that. If it is not reliable with standard sized cells, I will look into a return or refund.
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I’d rather solder a longer spring in the switch board than in the driver.
The TS10 has a small brass button on the driver, and if the Max is the same, it would more troublesome to solder it on the driver. The switch board, if easily accessible, would eventually be a better option!
In any case, I hope we don’t need to do any of these.
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Yes, this is what I did with the lights that were giving me problems. I actually wound a smaller spring into the main spring and soldered it in. Works fine. But I worry a bit about having too much pressure on the driver and switch with longer cells. A compromise at best.
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Thanks for the button mod idea.
Now with this mod I love using my HS10 again, I’m so happy 
. . .
Seriously, stock SC31 Pro’s button is mushy, but HS10’s is much worse, horrible, I can feel the internal switch components when pressing it.
I think it’s because of its wider diameter (SC31 Pro rubber button 12mm, HS10 is 16mm) , and the rubber is thinner.
Now with plastic sheet spacer it’s firm and nice.
My SC31 Pro’s button was not super bad but, now with plastic spacer mod it’s perfect, firm, so NICE.
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Thanks for your idea. At first I tried using a snap ring pliers to turn the button bezel but my smallest snap ring pliers isn’t small enough. With Vernier caliper it’s easy easy.
Btw I’ve also done the same button mod with my SC31 Pros.
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I also replaced the OG black battery tube with a new silver one, just like yours. Black and and silver combo is really nice.
For the other SC31 Pro I replaced the batt tube with an orange one (Wurkkos FC11C tube). Black and orange combo is nice too.
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I’m going to try this mod on FC11C. Can you explain why thin and how thin is thin enough :-)
Something like 0.3mm to 0.5mm. you don’t want it to be too soft because otherwise it doesn’t provide the tactile improvement anymore.
The purpose of the sheet is to transfer the depressing force over a large area onto the small button so the button feels like it’s as big as the entire rubber dome instead of a tiny dimple in the middle.
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Limited deal products:
$12.99 FC11, Dec. 11th PST
$12.99 TS10 V2, Dec. 14th PST
$12.99 WK05, Dec.16th PST
They all contain batteries.
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When will TD07 be available?
Already sold out?!
Interested in the 2xAA light but can’t buy it anymore!
EDIT: didn’t see the available date. Guess I will wait then.
hi ,still in stock, promotion till to 16th
In trial production, and will release for test at the end of this month.