I bet BLFers will love this flashlight that Wurkkos released not a long time ago.
Compact, good looking (especially the brass body), HiCRI light and flexible UI. The last`s is not what a regular user looks for. But an advanced user will certainly be happy with Wurkkos TS10. And below I will show you how much.
You can buy Wurkkos TS10 at:
➤ Aliexpress Aluminum version | copper version
➤ Flashlightgo with sitewide discount code lumeniac
LED LatticePower CSP2323
maximum brightness 1400 lumens
14500 Li-Ion battery
Anduril II (tail button control)
size: 71.5*21mm, 2.8 x 0.83 x 0.83 inches
weight: 47\87g 1.76\3,07 ounces aluminum\brass with battery
body: aluminum, brass, copper or titanium (unlikely, price is too high ) to choose from
PACKAGE AND APPEARANCE
Initially, I got my hands on an aluminum body version. As usually, it came in a classic and unpresentable box, which is well known by many other Wurkkos flashlights, from HD15 headlamp to the Jack of all trades Wurkkos TS32
And now, another batch of Wurkkos flashlight has reached me. I opened it and … wow! They completely changed the packaging, now it’s not really luxury, but now the Wurkkos flashlight is definitely good as a gift, you won’t be ashamed.
By the way, the same change also affected the aforementioned TS32.
In addition to the fact that the box itself has become presentable, kit also got righer - now it includes a diffuser. the rest is the same - the flashlight itself, optional 14500 battery, lanyard, clip, a pair of o-rings
And here is the flashlight itself. Let me remind you that there are classic black aluminum version and a slightly more expensive, but much more stylish version brass version.
There is only one difference in design, brass version has no prints at all. I did not get any presentable photos of brass, so I will limit myself to the very first photo shoot of the aluminum case.
The dimensions, as you can see, are frankly insignificant. The Wurkkos TS10 is the length of an ordinary key flashlight, which it surpasses only in thickness.
I would be wrong in my heart to say that the Wurkkos TS10 is a design masterpiece. No, he has a rather modest appearance. And I don’t think that one should expect some kind of high design with such dimensions and, more importantly, the price, .
Due to the pronounced saddle in the middle part, the flashlight has a very convenient cigar grip.
The flashlight is controlled by a wide flat tailcap. It is somewhat recessed deep into the body, so you can safely put a flashlight on the tail, the button will not be pressed.
The move is moderately tight, so I would not be afraid of accidental inclusions in my pocket. Well, if in doubt - the flashlight can be easily blocked with 4 clicks
There is a spring at the tail side and a contcat pad at the head side
An additional sleeve is pressed inside the main body for conducting a signal from the button
Of course, there is no practical use for cooling fins here, this is nothing more than a tribute to tradition and a way to somehow diversify the design of a flashlight.
There is a TIR lens instead of reflector, which is quite expected from such a gourmet model.
Wurkkos made the unusual choice and installed 3*LatticePower CSP2323 LEDs that I’ve never seen anywhere else. Usually, when it comes to all sorts of HiCRI amenities, you should expect Nichia \ Samsung LH351D \ SST20.
Be that as it may, the flashlight has a good, good light and you will see it below.
And here is another cool feature of this flashlight - the backlight. Wurkkos sent me a sample with orange backlight, but there is, for example, blue backlight as well.
As BLFers know, Anduril II UI lets you tuned baclight. It can shine brightly, it can be very dim, it can blink. Or maybe even disabled. The backlight, by the way, is even brighter than the firefly mode. Last one shines much farther (after all, the LEDs are behind the lens and the light is focused as it should), but the backlight is definitely brighter up close. So for some night searches on the shelf and in the drawer, you can use it without turning the flashlight on.
And that’s why the average user, I think, will be happy with the Wurkkos TS10 only until the first accidental pressing of the wrong combination of clicks and holds.
Anduril II interface gives the user everything possible. Everything. True, you will have to keep a lot in memory too.
Although, if you only need to turn off / on, lock, rewind modes and get access to instant turbo, firefly and strobe, then you won’t have to memorize anything new. Here the only challenge for you will be perhaps the verification and possible calibration of the temperature sensor.
Technically, there is an option to give the Wurkkos TS10 to a simple user as well, by switching the interface to simple control mode before that.
And here everything is familiar:
off-on on - 1 click
rewind modes on button hold (stepped or ramping)
4 click lock (with instant firefly on hold or 2 clicks)
button hold from off - firefly
2 clicks from ON turbo
3 clicks - strobe
HOW WURKKOS TS10 ILLUMINATES
Of course, you should evaluate the maximum brightness of 1400 lumens, colossal for such a size, from the position of mamarketing first of all. As is often the case, such a turbo is only achievable when flashlight body is cold and battery is full.
The longer you use the flashlight, the more it heats up, the shorter all these higher brightnesses become. Even a significantly more massive brass body will not help here. And what’s more - the thermal conductivity of brass is 2.5 worse than that of aluminum. So higher modes will be even shorter.
But brass version feels way more pleasantly in hand due to its weightiness. Here, the ideal option would be a copper body which has excellent thermal conductivity, much better than aluminum.
i`ll add charts for H6 and higher modes later
So, the more or less practical (in the presence of cooling) analog of turbo is H7 (at least for me). Dont expect that much from H8 besides “hey, dudes, you will not believe how bright this tiny stuff is”
The H5, with its 300 lumens, can only be sustained with some cooling. However - if you use a flashlight outdoor, then feel free to expect that you will have H5 as a good practical and longlasting mode. With some gradual stepdown, of course. And 300lum is actually quite good brightness.
Well, H4 with 130 lum is already quite stabilized and does not need cooling. Don’t look at the unimpressive numbers of this brightness, 130 lumens is enough to light your way under your feet, not to mention work indoors.
And here is the light. There are several color temperature options (they are either available or not). I got the 4000K version. The light itself looks nice, nice…However, I would have preferred that very slightly pinkish nichia, the name of which I forgot…519a, i guess.
In turbo and higher brightness, the flashlight is impressively bright for such a baby, so there will be a wow element here, believe me.
But, in general, this is a small flashlight with a fairly modest constant brightness. At least for aluminum, it is limited to H4 at room temperature and H5 when cooled. Copper version may perform better, but i dont have to check it.
It is possible (but I’m not sure - I need to check) copper will pull out H5 even without cooling. If you want something brighter - look for models on 18650. I repeat, here the same Sofirn SC32 will allow you to sacrifice a little compactness, but get a fundamentally different level of brightness and runtime.
As you can see, there is no sense to expect long range here. H7-H8 can give you a short time at a distance of half a hundred meters.
Conventionally, standing on the ground, you can puff and light up that way up to the 15th floor.
Wurkkos TS10 is a nice flashlight for the advanced user that will appreciate both Anduril II’s super-flexible controls and HiCRI light. But for an ordinary user, the first, most likely, will become a disadvantage, and the second is simply uninteresting.
Only a relatively small price will remain advantage for a regular user. The question is that, again, the average user is likely to take a brighter full-sized flashlight for this price (well, or a compact 18650 flashlight).
And an advanced, experienced user, yes, will get everything that he is looking for from such flashlights, both in terms of UI and light. And in general, due to the low price, he can buy a flashlight just like that, without special need - just like 5-10 flashlights bought before.
The aluminum version looks and feels worse than the brass version, but… it’s cheaper and aluminum has better heat transfer. If you are satisfied with working at brightnesses up to H5 inclusive (which is quite logical for such size), then the brass version is a good choice. If you need a lightweight body, a lower price and a slightly longer run time at higher brightness - take aluminum.
The copper body will be a chic option here, which combines the advantages of design, weight and thermal conductivity. However, it will certainly cost more. Titanium is also interesting, but its release is still unlikely.
In the meantime, in terms of functionality, absolutely everything suits me in the Wurkkos TS10 and I am calm about the fact that the highest modes here are frankly short - it would be naive to expect something different from a flashlight with this size.
In terms of design, I would only change the longitudinal imitation of cooling fins to transverse seats for tritium. I am sure that many would gladly make a Christmas tree out of a flashlight
And here is the main recommendation. Usually I get rid of almost all reviewed flashlights (or should store hundreds of them). But I keep Wurkkos TS10. Though I’ll wait for the copper version and then decide what to do with aluminum and brass.