I’m interested what I could do to my TS21.
It has SST-20 LEDs in 6500k which are ok. I assume I couldn’t swap them for Nichia 219B or something like that without swapping the driver, right?
I could swap the glass and optics for Carclo. Would that make any difference?
I was looking at glow in the dark gaskets. They are like $15 plus shipping on AliExpress and I don’t even know if they would fit.
Could I order an aux led PCB from Hank or someone else and wire it?
People say the parasitic drain is a problem on these. I use the switch LED on low. Is there any point in swapping the resistors?
The TS21 parasitic drain on high cannot be fixed without changing the switch according to Wurkkos. If it is an easy fix they would have fixed it. Low is fairly negligible in drain.
The optic and setup for the TS21 are not the same are the Carclo triple up. You could theoretically use a triple with a spacer or a quad sanded down a few mm to fit but I think the tripe with optics is actually really good for the light. You just have to do a reflow. Mine is swapped with 219b and I have not had a problem but I also don’t spawn turbo. If there is a concern, just use the Wurkkos battery as it is current limited to like 10 amps.
Glow gaskets don’t fit because it’s not a standard triple. As a compromise, you can twist a glow gasket around the legs of the optic. Pic below. The foil disc that blocks the switch light from coming through the optic got removed, it lest a little light shine through so it’s a faint AUX effect.
IMHO it works really well with the short tube and takes a 18350 or a 20350.
I can’t take credit for the glow gasket idea but I forget where I saw it originally. I use the 21mm x 1mm oring for the s2+ (it’s the ones from Simon). The same ones work with the triples from Carclo on the FW3a too.
With a weaker battery you can FET drive 219b triples. I did it with a Samsung 25r and it seemed fine. I’m not sure what the equivalent 21700 cell would be but you might be able to find one with a suitably low voltage curve here . A regulated driver is probably a better idea though.
- I’ve read that changing the resistors changes the brightness/drain but there’s still a higher drain than needed because of something else. USB charging module or something.
- I have the 6500k version and I’m happy for now but maybe I’ll experiment in the future. Maybe trying the 4000 k version or even the Osram W2 that I saw someone use.
If I were to find the original PCB with SST-20 4000k I would only need to solder two wires.
- Glow gaskets work but apparently only Niwalker gaskets, if you can find them.
- I removed the white foil and it did look cool with blinking LED switch lights. The problem is that you need to have it on high or blinking to see it out front and in that case the switch is shining so bright that it overpowers the front, even if looking at it from the front bezel!
- I have the shirt tube that I used until the 21700 batteries came. It was fun and I miss it but I used a 16340. They restocked the 20350 when I already placed the order. Now I don’t feel like gambling to see if their batteries are good (enough).
The flashlight is pretty compact out of the box.
