Wurkkos wk30 365nm mineral stealth hunter mod with fog-light.

Hi I just bought the Wurkkos wk30 & now i have to figure out what emitters to order.

I need to replace the LG 3535 H1 LEUVA33U70UL01 395nm emitter with a 365nm emitter.
Unsure if to get nichia or other with low stray light and go without filter or lg and glue a small filter on the reflector for the uv emitter.

This is my first flashlight mod.
I have been reading all the forum has to offer about this flashlight and 365nm emitters.

If anyone put a nichia 365nm emitter or a small filter on the reflector of this flashlight i would love to hear about it.

What 365nm emitter would you put in this flashlight year 2020?
Thanks for helping me on my quest.

I’ve not tried any of these first hand, as they are still somewhere in the mail from China. But I’m under the impression the SST-10 and Seoul Viosys z5 (available at KD) are two of the better performing emitters when prioritizing output and die size. I think djozz said the SST10 is the closest to Nichia in terms of low ‘stray’ or visible light. Keeping the emitter cool is very important to minimize this as well, so if the emitter isn’t on copper DTP, you’ll get more unwanted wavelengths than necessary.

sst-10 UV is the best beat without filter as the Nichia 276A needs a special MCPCB for good cooling and don’t like to be driven at 700mA

I get the flashlight wednesday but i borrowed a picture from: [Review] Wurkkos WK30 - White/UV/Red 26650 Flashlight - #5 by 1stein

Is it copper, looks like copper in the holes?

So if i choose to go filterless i should buy SST-10-UV-A130-E365-00
And if i decide to use a filter i should buy SEOUL VIOSYS UV Z5 CUN66A1B is this correct?

Me and the animals prefer a stealthy calming green so the CREE XP-E2 XPEBRD-L1-R20 P3 3535
625nm needs replacing with a 525nm emitter.

The SAMSUNG LH351D 5000K 90CRI SPHWHTL3DAOGF4RTS6 needs to be replaced with a 2700k emitter

UV, Stealth & Foglight in one flashlight :slight_smile:

The SST10 should be a safe choice either way. It’s only downfall is a higher voltage, so depending on the type of driver and drive current, the Z5 might run longer at full brightness. Both are very similar and high output emitters in a relatively small dies. This yields much higher intensity on target than a 5W LG emitter, but also a smaller hot spot. I feel like the optics are small enough though that either beam will be wide enough, but I don’t have any experience gem hunting.

Which leads me to a question back to you. Why is green preferred over red? What about amber? If amber is acceptable, then maybe that one could double as a ‘fog’ light, and you can keep a neutral white emitter for a balanced color representation source?

Red is for preserving nightvision good for places like bunkers, cockpits and vehicles where you have to read and check maps.

I use my light outside in natural settings where green is a better option.
With green i can go about my business without attracting attention.
Green is also used for preserving nightvision but does so without alerting people & wild animals.

Any tint can be used to preserve nightvision if its low enough output.
I find white and red light stress me out so its also a matter of personal preference.

I hope the lowest setting on the Green and 2700k emitters Will be low enough to not disturb nightvision.

The uv and green emitters could very well be floody emitters.

So i disassembled my Jaxman U1c flood i got last year to try if unfiltered uv works for my needs.
I payed for a 6w nichia @ 1600mW but received this in a 3w host not sure if i got ripped off.
Will try it outdoors tonight.

Can anyone tell me what emitter it is?

It looks like a NVSU233B-D4 to my untrained eye but thats only rated 1,450mW not 1,600?

My test without filter is positive, not much difference just a tiny tad brighter.

Old UV LED: LEUVA33U70UL01 395nm 1,900mW 130˚ 3.5V 1000mA

New UV LED: SST10UVA130E36500 365nm 875mW 130° 3.7V 1000mA

Old 625nm LED: CREE XP-E2 XPEBRD-L1-R20 P3

New 525nm LED: CREE XP-E2 XPEBGR-L1-R250-00?02
something? Having trouble finding the correct end of that ordernumber.

Old 5000k LED: LH351D 5000K 90CRI SPHWHTL3DAOGF4RTS6

New 2700k LED: LH351D 2700k 90CRI SPHWHTL3DA0GF4WPN6

I chose the 2 latter from same brand/model, because its easy and i know it works.
If you have any better options please let me know, the flashlight arrives tomorrow so im eager to order the emitters.

LEUVA33W70RL00 is 395nm?
I thought it was 365nm. I bought the Convoy with this led and it doesn’t look 395nm

Sorry i think its supposed to say LEUVA33U70UL01 i will edit my post.

The flashlight will arrive today.
Planning to order emitters from D-K later today after disassembling it, hope i didnt make any mistakes.

Luminus Devices Inc.

Cree Inc.

Samsung Semiconductor, Inc.

Received the flashlight and im having second thoughts.
It will take some serious modding to make it work for me.
3 decades of arthritis have left me with very few digits that can double & triple click at the pace required.
All that misfiring will definately be detrimental to preserving night vision
If there was a firmware i could mod that would do it.
Since theres not i stand to replace a lot of hardware to get it to perform like i want it to.

The flashlight arrived with some sort of mafunction that made it almost impossible to double and triple click.
Disassembling/reassembling the flashlight somehow fixed it and now it works as intended.