[quote=Default Username] That makes sense. Thanks for the clarification RaceR86! I'm wondering if that might also explain why I wasn't impressed by the 7D3 tint I tried earlier. I have a couple of 7C4 XPG2 emitters that I never got around to mounting, but I'm wondering now if the light they produce is a little closer to what an incandescent would look like. [/quote]
When it comes to WW, my favorite out of all the "7 tints" I have tried is the 7A3 80+ CRI. Its not far from 7D3, only less warm. I don't typically use WW outdoors though. On the rare occasions I do, its typically a "6" tint (XM-L2 6A3, or a WW Nichia 119).
Tints are subjective. There is no "best". Ive had around 30-35 different XM-L2 tints (partially thanks to tint mixing, and partially due to de-doming), ranging from the very CW 0 and very WW "8" Most are NW.
There are also several factors when it comes to buying emitters with different tint. Source (do you really get what you ordered), difference within that batch, or between different batches (that could be the difference between like and dislike). How it works with the reflector/lens in a certain flashlights. All these things will affect the tint. Due to this Ive had NW "C" tinted emitters look like they were on or below BBL. I have had NW A/D tinted emitters that looked to be like they were above. Most of the time, they look like they should in comparison to others. But if you dont have anything to compare with, sometimes its not easy that easy to notice on certain emitters.
Doing recommendations in the "3" and "4" range is fairly difficult due to the large differences in tints that are are supposed to be the same. I find it easier to say what I like in the "5" range and warmer because the differences between each tint are less. Example. I dont like 6A1 that much (too pink), I like 6A3.
The issue is if you buy, say a 3C. You risk that it can be overly yellow-green. Or it can be nice. Its basically the same risk with most of the NW emitters.
For me, the best tints are the ones the look as white as possible for its temperature range. When it comes to NW emitters that means the least amount of noticeable green, yellow or pink.
(Oh, some of the above were not meant for Default Username, but more as a general info to various people)
Since OP started this thread because of X40.
Ill do a little picture analysis on the mouseover from this comparison thread. Look at the colors.
On the time of comparison both these lights had stock CW (unknown tint as far as I know) emitters. I used AutoWB, but despite that, I think the pictures to some extend show the differences in tint that I could see in real life too.
Trees and nature are greener with the TK75. But it did not have an excessive amount of green. I would guess its a 1C, that is leaning towards 2B, 1D and 2A. I think it looks better on the picture and it looked better in real life. I would not de-dome those emitters since the typical tint shift is towards (more green and less red).
In comparison, my X40 had a slight cooler look, and also noticeable more red in it. Which means less yellow and green as can be seen easily on the trees. I would guess my X40 emitters were 1A leaning towards 0D (It was cooler compared to a 1A I compared it with). I de-domed the emitters in the X40. Outcome was ok (ok outcome after de-doming without any tint mixing is about as good as it gets), but it now lacks red/pink. Typical when de-doming even suitable emitters.
Question was not for me, but I got my T5 5A3 80+ CRI from IOS back when they sold it. (I even double checked with them that the labeling was correct). At one point they also sold T4 5D2 80+ CRI, but those were gone a long long time ago.
Every time there is a tint thread, these emitters seems to come up. :D I was even offered a very high price for one of mine, but did not sell. :D
Now they sell T5 5D3, but not with 80+ CRI.