Curious… those of you into DIY throwers seem to agree a cold tint dedomed XP-G2 is the way to go, aspheric or otherwise.
How does a de-domed XP-E2 compare?
G2 is better, 2x die area but over 2x lumens when driven at 6+ amps.
True, but you need to run 2S to get anywhere near 6 amps.
It’s impossible to find old XP-G2 these days, and the new ones are terrible. Oslon Black Flat is probably the only viable replacement at this point.
XP-E2 just can’t take the current that XP-G2 can. So at the same drive level, maybe an E2 can be a G2, I’m not sure, but I know a G2 is capable of beating an E2 when both are pushed to their limits.
OK thanks for the feedback!!
Thats an interesting twist to things. What did Cree change?
Is a current production, de-domed G2 better or worse then an XP-L HI (factory de-dome) ? Assuming were comparing the brightest / coldest BINs ?
thanks again!!
These tests show the dedomed XPE2 and XPG2 will give similar throw numbers. And as mentioned above, the XPG2 has significantly more area and lumen output.
The new XPG2 does give lower throw numbers, but lots of them are within ~15% of the old style XPG2, so I would not consider them terrible. For example:
Yeah, I like E2s at 1.05A, maybe 1.40A if I want to push them. I like being able to keep them on 100% indefinitely and not have them cook.
Never used G2s before, so can’t say much if anything about them. They end up seeing at most Vbatt - 0.1V, not counting any IR drops in the switch, springs, etc. No idea how much current you can push through them on a single cell.
I have a dedomed XP-E2 R5 1A running on 6x 7135 = 2.1 Amperes in a Jacob A60.
Must say it works just fine. 
The challenge is focussing the darn thing in the reflector…
It should be ran at 3A if you want it to compete with a XP-G2 in throw.
Naw, all my E2s are on standard Al mcpcbs, not Cu, certainly not DTP. Most of the current would end up just as excess heat, not light. Even at 1.4A, the light curve is flattening out.
Like I said, I like my E2s unstressed, and able to run indefinitely. Kinda need to, in a 1-mode light. 
Yes but OP is not talking about your light, he is talking about some other light, and he said he wants “max lux for throw” not “buy cheap aluminum e2 and run at 50% for mediocre throw” 
But run 100% more current for only 20% more light?
You’d have to similarly cook a G2 to get the same throw.
Dunno, but my philosophy is just because you can, doesn’t mean you should.
The philosophy for throw enthusiasts is that if it gives more lux, you do it.
I can find Djozz’s XP-E2 test, but i think he did test it, but i found a similar test of XP-E2 just now on DTP copper MCPCB and i.m.o. it’s not really worthwhile to exceed 2 Amperes.
Since the XP-G2 has roughly twice the size die, and it does pretty well above 4 Amperes, it will out throw the XP-E2.
But indeed, you’re not gonna get too far with a single cell linear driver, forward voltage is too high at that current.
Light output is still rising somewhat at 1A, already almost flat at 1.4A, and peaks at 1.6A. More current, and light drops.
I don’t have any XP-E2s on DTPs, so on a regular Al star, 1A is fairly unstressed, and 1.4A is already peaking.
XP-G2 on Al is peaked at about 2.6A.
Cu DTP changes all that, of course. Smoke ’em if you got ’em.
OK great thanks for the info fellas!!!
At the maximum possible current the XP-E2 has less luminance than the XP-G2 including the newer ones. The Osram Black Flat beats all XP-G2s including the older ones. These things have been carefully measured in the German TLF forum. The XP-G2 only makes sense at really low currents and if the Osram Böack Flat is too much of a hassle (at low currents).
Have they measured the luminance of the dedomed XPG3?