As I stated above, I have this warm, hi CRI XP-G I want to install in a light. I think it was the very last one from IS. The problem is, I'm not really sure what to do with it.
i was going to throw it in a P60 module with a 1.4A driver, but now I'm undecided whether or not to install it in its own host, and drive it a little harder. I have a bunch of Convoy hosts, and was thinking of using it with a copper sinkpad at 2.1 or 2.8A.
The question is, would this Hi CRI XP-G be best left unsullied and driven close to its rated 1.5A for optimal viewing pleasure, and would driving it harder do nothing, or enhance its hi CRI qualities.
Id like to get the most from it, but don't want to waste my time creating nothing but extra heat, or possibly washing out the tint. I know these really warm tints aren't that popular, but if anyone could give me their thoughts on the subject, I'm listening.
Since I consider myself a bit of a tint and beam profile connoisseur , I will suggest that you find a reflector that gives the emitter the smoothest beam *. I also think that you should err on the side of floodiness , as I feel that high color rendition is best appreciated at shorter distances .
* My definition of a smooth beam is one in which the hotspot gradually fades into the corona , which then gradually fades into the spill , with no sharp delineations in light intensity .
I am also interested in the correlation between CRI and different currents to the emitter .
Whatever you end up with , I'm confident that it will be great .
I’m worried that driving it hard will leave a white hotspot burning through the tint, though I don’t know that for a fact. Perhaps hard driven, it will keep the tint even, from hotspot to corona. I just don’t know what will happen.
If you’re using a brass pill, don’t drive it harder than 1.4-1.5A. There’s noticeable heat sag at those currents already, so there’s no point in driving it much harder. First gen XPG didn’t respond all that well to being over driven anyway, even when the heatsinking was optimal.
I don’t know the answer to your question. The CPF thread where the 219’s efficiency, lumens, cri, etc were measured up to like 2 amps, showed the CRI was at its best CRI at the highest currents.
I would recommend heat sinking the emitter very well and try out various current levels yourself. I could be wrong, but I don’t think you will damage the phosphorous driving it hard (if properly heat sinked).
One thing the MG-T2 (only at 75 CRI average, but way better than normal XML2’s) has taught me. Color is very key to our perception of depth. I never noticed until now, but if you look at large scenic pictures drawn by artists or taken with camera. The distant objects have less color. Generally, trending towards bluish grey. Kind of like cool white emitters. So I say, try out a mid-range thrower if it tickles your fancy. My MG-T2 throws like crazy and I am digging the higher color rendition.
EDIT: Sorry, I should have specified XML2. I have no real experience with xpg’s.
While I have a few lights that are exceptions, I think high-CRI emitters are complemented by being in smaller smaller/floodier lights that you can have on your person. Like jacktheclipper said, I think high CRI is best appreciated for observing things that are close to you.
