I have some of those same clamps.
These are cheep clamps cost about 2 usd for a pack of 4
Cheap enough to have many and not worry too much if one is lost ot damaged.
Good to see progress being made
I’m so impressed that you got this to work….what a unique project light! I’m going to have to keep an eye out for one of those parking beam things…seems like I still see a lot of wooden ones but scoring a free damaged extrusion like that would be neat.
This looks so awesome. I can hardly imagine writing custom voice activated firmware.
Might be more trouble than it’s worth, but you could give it non-english (or non-native) words to avoid accidental operation.
Hope you fine one in good condition usually they are damaged on the connection point to the motor so it cheaper to just shorten it instead of replacing it, but when it gets too short and allow cars to pass around it, they have to throw it away
It is definitely more trouble than it's worth, but it is more like a "proof of concept" than an actual operational light.
Flashlight UI was not changed for a long time, and I do believe that recent technological improves can make life easier
I meant more trouble than it’s worth to learn commands in another language just to avoid accidental operation 
I think the voice control would be amazing in a headlamp. Difficult sure, but I would think probably worth it.
Sorry, I completely miss understood you, obviously my speech recognition needs some practice
I have used some aluminum scraps to make partition in the hosing for mounting the emitters.
(The scratches will be facing backward and will not be visible)
These partitions will be used to dissipate the heat from the LEDs to the outer shell, so I choose relatively heavy 5mm plates that are able to absorb some heat before dissipation.
For cutting the plated I have used a jig saw
And used a Dremel and a file to make the plats tightly fit inside the housing
I want to use a GoPro adapter as a helmet mount.
Although it is not the strongest mounting it allows easy tilting and more important, I already have other lights with this mount, so lights and helmets are interchangeable according to the cave or mission.
For building the mount I used a rectangular Aluminum profile (the same one I have used for the "Heatsink" plates. It already has a 90 degrees shape, so I don't have to bent it.
Unfortunately, it is too thick, so I had to file it to make it thinner in order to fit into the helmet mount.
The original GoPro screw is too short, but I can use a regular Allen screw until I find a longer one
Few days ago, I have glued the base plates for the LEDs to the Housing.
I have used a Heatsink plaster to improve the thermal path from the plates to the housing.
By now it is completely cures and ready for drilling.
I had to drill in the plates to connect the wired from the driver at the rear side of the housing to the emitters on the front.
I also need two holes for mounting the circuit boards
And tapped the drills for the PCBs.
I prefer using screws since the speech recognition module is expensive and I don't want to damage it.
Nice work YuvalS.
Looking good.
Thanks guys.
Since I have already had the drill in reach, I also started drilling the housing.
first is the hole for the momentary switch.
Because of the partition exactly in the center I was not able to drill it in the center.
I have drilled it on the left side but wanted to keep it as close as possible to the middle, so I had to sketch on the housing.
It will fit perfectly behind the PCBs
I also drilled a hole for the cable gland, also trying to keep it close t the plates to leave enough room for the electrnics.
The cable will be coming from the rear battery box.
Before I can add the emitters, optics and electronics have to connect the GoPro mount and think of a way to attach the microphone
I like asymmetrical designs
Today Is the last weekend before the deadline so I am planing to work non-stop until I complete the light.
Be prepared for an new update post every few hours :)
I want to have an external microUSB port for FW updates and for adding/changing the voice commands easily.
I had to de-solder the USB port from the Arduino and re-solder it using an extension wires.
After soldering, I have reinforced the solders with hot glue.
In order to save some space inside the housing, i have removed all the pin headers from the Arduino board.
While it is still reasonable to make sawing noise, I cut the plastic for the battery box.
I saw the box out of 2cm thick plate.
Covered it from both sides to create a box, using thin Perspx sheet.
I glued everything together to make it waterproof and reinforced with screws.
The cover will held close using latches to make it easy to change batteries while caving.
I connected the other side of the latches (have no idea how it is called) to the cover using screws and glued rubber to to seal the opening.
Also Added a cable gland for the power cable.
“Catch plate”, orsometimes “hook”