YuvalS's Hand Made Class, 7th Annual BLF/OL contest entry topic

pinkpanda3310 · 2020-02-16T10:50:48.000Z

If you do end up using double sided tape, I recommend using a mount with the largest possible area for the tape. It will be much more durable.

DB_Custom · 2020-02-16T17:56:02.000Z

Logo’s are attached to car bodies with similar tape, typically 3M. VERY difficult to remove once pressure-set in place. An absolutely clean surface is required of course for the adhesive to stick at full strength.

G0OSE · 2020-02-16T18:58:15.000Z

I think the stuff you guys are on about is acrylic adhesive tape. 3m make the original stuff, though you can buy it anywhere. As DB says, once that stuff gets hold of the right surface, it’s not coming off in any hurry - on the wrong surface it will fall off just as easily lol! It loves plastics, but not oily types ( I don’t mean covered in oil)
This is the stuff , but you can get it on double sided foam too.

YuvalS · 2020-02-17T07:24:51.000Z

I think I will use a glue, so isn't regular (paste) glue will be better than double sided?

In addition, manufacturer recommend not using any glue nor stickers on the helmet, what do you think? Can it weakens the helmet?

YuvalS · 2020-02-19T20:11:56.000Z

It is time to start working on the circuit, I had an Idea to try print the PCB at home but most of the components are still on the way from China
Luckily I did got some drivers for other project and can use them:

In order to separately control 2 LEDs (Flood and Spot) I have to use both PWM pins of the MCU. (pin 5 and pin 6).
Pin 2 (PB3) will be set as a pull up input and be connected to GND by a Momentary NO switch.
Pin 3 (PB4) will be set as a digital output and connected to a blue (red is in the lost package) LED for battery indication.

Since I have to use a Nanjg 105C and a 1.4A single mode Drives, the control of the 2nd driver will be connected to Star2 (pin5 - OC0A) of the Nanjg.

The blue led will be connected to Star3 (pin3 - PB4)

And the switch to Star4 (pin2 - PB3)

MRsDNF · 2020-02-20T04:57:19.000Z

H’mmm. Someone else to be scared of. Didn’t know you were into black magic.

YuvalS · 2020-02-20T12:53:27.000Z

Startin soldering, first I had to add 4 more AMCs to the 1.4A driver in order to allow maximum output of 1000 Lumens for each LED

Unfortunately it wasn't the tiniest thing I has to soldar, but first I cut the outer GND ring of the Nanjg 105C to allow easier and stronger soldering to the stars:

Finally I soldered 1806 resistor and LED to star3:

This is the first time I am soldering SMT parts by hand and it wasn't fun.
Next step is optics.....

MtnDon · 2020-02-20T15:25:37.000Z

YuvalS:

This is the first time I am soldering SMT parts by hand and it wasn’t fun.

Yessir. Those are difficult to work with. You have a certain amount of bravery to venture into that

MRsDNF · 2020-02-21T08:59:44.000Z

MtnDon:

YuvalS:

This is the first time I am soldering SMT parts by hand and it wasn’t fun.

Yessir. Those are difficult to work with. You have a certain amount of bravery to venture into that

Have to agree with Don here. Nice effort. :+1:

YuvalS · 2020-02-21T12:58:29.000Z

Busy weekend ahead, planing on finish the light
Just added the optics and soldered everything together

Glued the emitters (2*xm-l2 4200k on Copper MCPCB) to the heatsink with thermal paste:

Soldered all wires that cannot be reached after lenses are in place:

Carved the lenses (10 degrees tight Spot and 90 degrees Flood) holders, with a knife not to create dust inside the lenses:

Glued the lenses in place:

And FINALLY soldered everything together:

YuvalS · 2020-02-21T19:21:45.000Z

Sorry for posting a lot today but I had a lot of progress

I was working on the FW.
It is based on my original Caving light FW I already posted on this forum but I added some features and fix some minor bugs.
Main features are:

Individual control over Spot and Flood LEDs
Electronic lock off
Step down timer to avoid overheating
Low battery warning
Battery check mode
Very low emergency mode

The improved code can be found here

But before burning my FW to the light, I had to calibrate the voltage measurements, using my BattCheck FW, heavily based on ToyKeeper's Battcheck firmware (Thank you ToyKeeper)
You can download my FW here

Now I only have to mount it to the Helmet and test it in a cave

MRsDNF · 2020-02-21T20:21:32.000Z

Love your work YuvalS. Good stuff.

YuvalS · 2020-02-22T19:09:48.000Z

Just did the final adjustments, some fixes and mount it to the helmet

First I had to sew the elastic band that hold the battery box to the back of the helmet (never thought that sewing can be part of building a light)

Then follow the advice of MtnDon, pinkpanda3310, DB Custom AND G0OSE, I used 3M double sided tape to glue the GoPro mount to the helmet

And now I can finally say that this build is completed (one week ahead of due date)!

I had this Idea of building a budget profesional caving lamp forever but always had something more urgent to do so this competition was exactly the encouragement I needed to complete this project.
I tried to document every step of the build as clear as I could and shared my FW in case other people are interested in building a similar lamp.
A rough estimation I did, shows that the parts cost me about 30 USD, not including aluminum pieces, Perspex, plastic, wires etc. which I disassembled from old stuff or had at home.

An equivalent commercial caving light costs more than 600 USD and the FW is less suitable to my needs so, in my opinion, it is really represents the BLF spirit.
If you have any comments or ideas please comment and don't hesitate to ask me any questions if you are interested in building a similar light.

MtnDon · 2020-02-22T22:22:56.000Z

I like the light. Great idea and work through.

YuvalS · 2020-02-22T22:54:01.000Z

MtnDon:

I like the light. Great idea and work through.

THX MtnDon, couldn't do it without the support of guys from, BLF

YuvalS · 2020-02-23T23:23:46.000Z

A short video I made on my caving FW,
Sorry for my english , please note that the step-down timer is 36 seconds and not 36 minutes

G0OSE · 2020-02-27T11:59:03.000Z

Love it, well done you!
Oh, and how’d that 3m tape work out, is it still attached? i was thinking after it may be a bit heavy for that tape, and thought about using strong magnets………. or maybe a high quality mini cam mount with sucker/windscreen mount? (not an ebay $2 one)

Agro · 2020-02-27T10:52:09.000Z

Any cave shots with it?

MascaratumB · 2020-02-27T13:44:57.000Z

Well done

YuvalS · 2020-02-27T17:57:11.000Z

Thanks guys!

Agro:

Any cave shots with it?

Not yet, tomorrow is planned a caving day, we are continue the world's longest salt cave survey

G0OSE:

Love it, well done you! :+1: Oh, and how’d that 3m tape work out, is it still attached? i was thinking after it may be a bit heavy for that tape, and thought about using strong magnets… or maybe a high quality mini cam mount with sucker/windscreen mount? (not an ebay $2 one)

The tape is still holding but I didn't yet test it in a caving conditions, if it not hold i just replace it with screws as anybody else does.

Strong magnets are not an option because it will affect the compass for survey.
Also suction cups are not suitable since the helmet is not Smooth

Here are some beam shots, i drove to a remote location bus still some lights on the background and the moon:

Moon mode (3%):

Flood (90°) Low(6%):

Flood (90°) Medium(20%):

Flood (90°) High(40%):

Flood (90°) Highest(100%):

Spot (10°) Low(12%):

Spot (10°) High(100%):