No it’s not glued. AT only use sticky thermal paste. You can check it yourself, the MCPCB can slide sideways a bit. I will mod mine as well as soon as I got some left over 219C
AT use rivets to make it more durable (and harder for us). I love this Prime very much, slim and durable except the too stiff switch.
In the russian fonarevka forum somebody opened his Wizard (XM-L2). I think the PCB was just screwed down. It’s a little bit more difficult because the bezel ist press fit instead of screwed. You need to pry it up.
I could NOT get my tiara C1 open. Even cut grooves in the bezel to turn with a steel ruler (too bendy) or force it with a hammer and screw driver and got nowhere. The ring might be press fit or shrunk fit? (where it is freezed and after heating up, expands tightly into place.)
To my understanding, heating expand most materials, and vice versa. With freezing as suggested by some member, you’ll only get it shrunk tighter. Al. has higher thermal expansion coefficient than SS (the bezel). Al. will also shrunk more than SS in cold. So heating is the way to go. The ideal case is to heat it up to a point where there’s no interference fit between aluminum and stainless - the bezel should fall off the headlamp. But….
Even though that most SMD should withstand leadfree soldering up to 260C for 30seconds (At least you know you’ll not ruin the components at that elevated temp), not many manufacturer use leadfree, you could make all the components fall off the board by heating up to 260C. Armytek seems to use 63/37 solder judging on the temp I used to de-solder the emitter (180C).
The PMMA optics used also rated only 120C. The red locktite will soften at 140C. The O-rings, button, and epoxy/silicone potting compound will probably much less than that.
100C is the safe side if you want to heat it without destroying all those low temp parts. Otherwise use your heat gun set to 250C.
I plan to make a contraption especially just to remove the bezel from all those press fitted flashlights. Once we get a good grip on it, adding more heat should make things easier.
I modded my WGW Prime. It was good ONLY in turbo mode. Lower modes = more green.
I never really use the CGW, too harsh to the eye for most uses. Also gives you eerie horror movie feeling if used in the foggy woods.
Edit: WGW = Warm Green White; CGW = Cool Green White