a new EDC light of 2017- JAXMAN E2L

tell me what,the size or the components,dear.

In my opinion,most users will not dissemble a flashlight and change the Lamps by themself.

You are right, for most users it is good to fix everything in place, it makes the flashlight more robust when it is dropped.

But here at BLF we are a bit different, usually we try to disassemble a flashlight even before switching it on :partying_face:
And only seldom we are happy with the leds, we want to be able to change them without damaging the flashlight.

It is very forthcoming that you are prepared to make a version of this flashlight without glue but normal thermal paste, thanks for that!

hi dear, if so, I would rather sell the whole set of parts to you ,not a completed light……

Please do so!

Parts would need to be packaged so that delicate parts like reflector isn’t scratched. This might seem stupid to mention but we’ve had manufacturers send parts all in a pile and reflector is ruined :open_mouth:

Selling the host would be a good alternative also.
TIR is standard 10507 that we can supply easily, as well as triple MCPCB from Noctigon or whatever and driver will be replaced anyway for FET and so on…
Yeah, a host option would be great :slight_smile:

Do we smell a Group Buy?

I’m in for a host too (everything except driver and led lamps) ! Please !!!

It’ll have to include the MCPCB though.

Of course . Host + MCPCB + carclo 10507 optics

If this happen. I will buy one instantly.

When it’s $20 including shipping, yes, me too.

Yes please!

+1

For the very, very small percentage of people that do “tear a light down before they even turn it on,” there are literally hundreds of people - if not more, and yes, even right here on BLF - that don’t. For that small percentage that does do such a thing, to even hint at some type of complaint that Jaxman doesn’t provide such a moddable light is , well, quite self serving at best.

By providing not two, but three different LED options to the consumer for this light, Jaxman has more than covered the base for most of their potential buyers.

I find it rather obtuse to complain about a light available to consumers on a large scale while at the same time backhandedly insisting that their lights and designs would be any better. Different strokes for different folks. One needs to look no further than the design thread for the “vaunted” A6 to see evidence of this.

Mad scientists in their parent’s basement be damned while the rest of us use credit cards on AliExpress to buy Jaxman lights. :wink:

It’s BLF, ya know… :wink:

In a non-negative way, I get that.

There is a reason though why there are very few in the mass produced flashlight business…and then there are the many “engineers” that can only bitch and whine about it on a forum. :wink:

It is to be expected that many BLF members avoid glued lights though.
Sure, not all of us are like that, but many are, and they are also contributing to development by trying different things.
I guess that’s why there’s a market for hosts too.
And how about the tiny problems many budget lights unfortunately have?
When it’s all glued it’s very hard to repair things.
You will bitch and whine too when you can’t open a light that has a simple problem you could otherwise fix or improve quite easily.

Okay. Valid point.

The more important question here though is, has anyone had any of those problems with a Jaxman light? Or is it simply a case of putting the cart in front of the horse? I mean, are these the very same folks that go out to dinner and put salt on their meal before they’ve even tried it?

I have already ordered an E2L because it seems quite good for the price. I would like to tinker down the road though and if they were to offer the E2L with a nichia triple and perhaps a more powerful driver I would buy another.

@Jaxman - re: the glue, the other thing to consider is that as shown in your OP, it's quite excessive. Unless there's some proprietary sauce in there that allows the heat conductivity to exceed (or even match) metal<>metal (in this case, I'm assuming Cu (300+ W/mK) to Al (200+ W/mK) thermal conductivity, only enough should be used to fill the micro gaps between the two mating surfaces. As a general rule re: glue, less really is more, and anything in excess is counterproductive for heat conductivity since even the best thermal epoxies (10+ W/mK) pale in comparison to the two aforementioned metals.

The E2L looks promising, good luck with the sales.