+1 for that
I used Arctic silver 5 in the middle of my Convoy S2+ and Eagle Eye X2R and arctic silver 2 component on the edges
Liquid metal is not good on aluminum as it corrodes it
In the next days I get special solder that is advertized that it can be soldered on aluminum, that should be the best heat transfer possible
Soldered star to brass pill shows how good it is as it gets a lot harder to solder the wires back on the star
Normally I use MX-4 unless I need something for a super special applications, MX-4 has a great balance of performance and price. Also use a gallium alloy TIM when I can. If I recall pastes normally work better than epoxies given a good level of pressure. Pressure is often just as important as the TIM you use.
Yup, I would highly recommend using a thermal paste + screws rather than a thermal epoxy.
Better performance, easier to swap out LEDs, and less damage.
Well, when trying to solder it to something that is intended to be a heatsink it will be really hard to get it to melt…
Make sure you have a 60W or more soldering iron and remove all drivers/o-rings/plastic from the light before you heat it up to 200C+
Since a flashlight is built like a heatsink, getting the head to 200C will probably make the rest of the body sit at over 100C.
Long ago I tweaked my PCs
Water cooling and high end stuff
Arctic silver was the way to go
Then a completely overclocked PC with several water cooling loops and a real expensive video card was my pride and joy
It scored really high on several tests but alas it sprung a leak after half a year of operation.
While looking for what to build next I ordered a basic really cheap motherboard with onboard graphics that accepted my CPU.
It wasn’t long till I realised that despite much lower benchmark scores this setup did what I wanted and not feel slow.
So I waited a bit with ordering a new setup. I looked through my parts bin, and measured all components temps, stuck heatsinks on all that became hot.
Lol I had so much heatsinks just the silent fan of the power unit gave enough airflow to keep all cool.
Holy dang, this PC was silent and fast enough.
On top of that after half a year I received a letter from the energy company and got a refund twice asbhigh as the parts that I bought to get it going had cost me.
One of the things I bought with my order was a big syringe with cheap thermal paste
I did test it and compared to the Arctic silver it had my CPU 2°C higher at burnin tests.
But the stuff cost me FL2 (like €0,80 $1,10 ) for a huge amount where the Arctic stuff was$6,50 for a tiny amount.
I used it but it got lost during the move here, I ordered something similar for I think $1 or $2 on AliExpress and it works nice.
Just fyi, heat is measured in watts not degrees, so 2C doesn’t really say how big the difference is.
2C drop on a 150W CPU is far more significant than 2C on a 50W CPU.
Also a big reason why you pay more for high quality thermal compound is so that it can last many years without drying, because when it dries then the performance drops.
How do thermal pads rate as a comparison? We use them for led modules/cob with an output up to 4000Lm.
We also use what looks to be a metallic type thermal pad which is extremely delicate and tears easily.
Just to note, these thermal pads are used on lighting for shopping centres and are on constantly. 5 year warranty. Never had one fail yet.
May be worth a test and see how they do in a torch