I generate 0-60v from two 30v power supplies all the time like this. You connect a POS and NEG to each other, and set them aside. (aka wired in series) Then you use the remaining two wires for your 60v
You're power supplies must not have DC negative sharing the AC grounded to the source negative within them. If they did (I believe most do), you would be shorting positive of the first supply to the negative source of the second supply.
EDIT: Maybe it will work if the 2 units cases (if matelic) don't touch. I'm not sure. Too tired to think it through right now. I would just be very careful. I have always floated DC output on subsequent series connected power supplies for safety's sake. Of course, the floated power supply should not be used with out a grounded power supply before it (the first power supply).
EDIT2: I'm talking about A/C powered power supplies. It just occurred to me that you may be talking about front-end (I think that is the term) DC powered power supplies. I haven't ever looked into that. So I have no idea if what I said would apply to that situation.
If you connect the output of one of these to the input of the next, the second one will work just like the first, it will have the same max output voltage and current.
This is how I tested my second unit when I first got it, the voltage does NOT add up nor current wired in series.
Pretty sure that is the norm. DC common grounded to AC earth. I can think of only one unit that I have tested that didn't have continuity between the two.
Bought the DPS5015 and case some days ago and was able to get the DELL EPS-470 from a german dealer today on Ebay (not as cheap as the US sources). If there is no 48V power cable included (http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/network-switches/f/866/t/19646456) I would like to get the 3-pin connector to make my own. Does somebody knows the name or a cheap source for them? Is it Amphenol …?
I gut wire harnesses from cars to get high-quality wires of all gauges and connectors for cheap. An auto wire harness will not have the right shape plastic connector, but you can de-pin the connectors and they will have high-quality female pin connections that work really well just on their own. Add a couple layers of heat shrink and you are good to go!
(pictured is a smaller wire/connector that I had at my desk.)
I never took the time to mess with the memory settings, I just manually set it each time. The only memory I have wished I had programmed is 4.2v and 3A anyways, it is what I set it to by default generally.