What did you mod today?

Had this light (Ultrafire V10) waiting for a mod for ages (think it is slightly big for a 16340 light) but yesterday I modded it with lighted tail (lime, orange, red), BG bistro driver (with fix), and Nichia 219B V1 sm453 R9080 led (from the great effort of Clemence et al.) on 16mm Noctigon. The driver floating above the contact plate, lighted ring version with 3x2leds (3x5.9KOhm+5.9kOhm in series with everything).

The lighted tail needs the leds a bit more balanced in output some time, and I had to add the extra 5.9kOhm resistor to restore the user interface, so it is quite dim now (which is ok) and everything works.

The beam has a ring in it from the bezel, but nothing annoying in real life. It throws a good spot, with 450 lumen @30 seconds max (well over 3A current), and the great bistro UI takes care of all other modes. The rosy tint with total absence of yellow is not 100% my cup of tea , but the clarity and colour contrast of this led is sublime!

Sweet mod right there djozz :wink:

Wellā€¦
The protruding bits turned out to protrude too much, so set out to shave some off with a dremel fixed to a bench, but the mill bit grabbed itā€¦

So i was really dumb to not make sure the thickness was as should be before soldering the LED to the boardā€¦

Changed the optic on a HC30 to a 45 degrees TIR.


Now it has a nice even spill when working outside.
Though I kept the lens, to press the O-ring down and keep it waterproof.

good fit Carclo 10140
http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?t=31892

Nice mod on the MCPCB Jerommel. It deserves a new led. :slight_smile:

FourSevens Mini AA Titanium

Looks really classy CRX! I read the build thread, nice.

Today I balanced the leds in the flashlight from post #2607 a bit better. The resistors are like this now:

Looks better now, but in reality what looks green is more towards lime andcwhat looks yellow is more orange.

i have been taking more steps towards casting my own aluminum stockā€¦ i am going to start a thread in the DIY on itā€¦

A very fiddly driver spring bypass, and a rather severe grinding job on the retaining ring to increase the internal diameter:

Wired up my 219C tripleā€¦just need to attach the NTC resistor, once the silicone cures, and itā€™s good to go.

I wasnā€™t happy with the wire solder job, so Iā€™ve since preheated the pill and resoldered the wires. It looks a bit better now.

Considering itā€™s my first reflow (using a clothes iron, no lessā€¦thanks lampyris!), Iā€™m pretty damn pleased (and rather surprised) that it actually works. :smiley:

What driver did you use? Good job on the ring, I hate opening them up. The dremel and I always swap blood.

I can state success for the Narsil build with the E-switch plus forward switch

Tom E changed the code so that the light gets always in turbo mode when the battery is conected here

This is the same as it was in the Klarus XT11GT light.

the normal narsil is running on my mopdded Skilhunt H03R
also adjusted the thermal calibration, works perfectly

black and white goes to swich with indicator LED which is feed by pin 7 over a 4.7kOhms resistor

left with TA 21mm driver, on the right stock with TIR both with identical high drain cell
left 4.55A right 2.45A

Looks like one of led4powers drivers. LD-2

Yup, itā€™s a 12A LD-3.

Some copper tube

Thorfire VG10 quad with the new spacer from kiriba-ru I have version #1 see discussion here :

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/38581/721

Picture of the parts, I forgot to include the actual spacer in the photo :person_facepalming: :

The spacer and parts was a perfect fit and it all came together nicely.Setup : Nichia 219C D320 5000K and a MTN-17DDm driver with Bistro firmware.

The VG10 is build like a tank and handles the heat very well, I also have a Convoy M1 quad with the same set-up but somehow the VG10 seems more solid.

Another great spacer kit from kiriba-ru.

I bought a light off of taobao and modded it. Hereā€™s the work I did: changed out the OP reflector to a dual stage smooth reflector (much like pflexproā€™s hybrid reflector) (I had to trim the reflector shorter to fit in the light), mtn 7135+FET driver w/ Bistro, bypassed springs both driver and switch, blue tail light switch, xpl2 v5 4000k led, blue GITD led centering ring, and epoxied a magnet ring on the tail end of the light.

Finished putting my S2+ 219C triple togetherā€¦again.

Learned a very important lesson in the process, if youā€™re soldering a Noctigon to a copper pill, check it in the host with the optics to ensure that itā€™s level before soldering the driver wires. :person_facepalming:

Managed to nudge one of the LEDs out of place in the re-reflow tooā€¦not my finest moment, but at least I got it back together and itā€™s working!

ā€¦a Jaxman E2L with 3000K 80CRI Nichia 319Cā€™s. Not great, see a new EDC light of 2017- JAXMAN E2L - #277 by djozz

Latest ThorFire VG10 that has spacers under emitter to compensate for bad design.
Rebuilt this light using an M2 Convoy reflector left over from an M2 Quad build. While it does physically fit into the head of the VG10 with spacers removed I did have to file/sand the top of the M2 reflector for the thicker Noctigon MCPCB and reflector spacer used. Also the choice of O-ring will determine how much material need to be removed for the bezel to seat properly.

Used 20mm Noctigon with XM-L2 U4 1A and an A6 Fet driver.