Nice progress Rufusbduck, this is a major mod, very hard to do. A bit of advice for cleaning /polishing the inside of those cooling fins: put it in a wise, find a tight fit rope and polish it (with polish paste) until satisfied moving that rope back and forth. Apply moderate pressure.
What brazing products do you use for this? I purchased a Durafix rods and they do the job great but don’t flow nicely like solder. It is thick material, very hard to sand.
What I’ve done in the past is spin the part on the drill press with a fold of successive grits of w/d paper in the gaps. Depending on the gap I’ll fold the sandpaper over different thicknesses of sheet stock to sand/polish the faces of the fins. I used to use only Radnor stay silv brazing wire and white paste flux but last year started using an SRA Products brazing paste/flux combo (similar to solder paste) for some things where secondary brazing steps favor the use of something with a lower melting point. I used the wire to braze both the main tube and the tube the spacers were cut from and the paste for the assembly. In both cases SRA Fuze Clean FS is used to dissolve the glasslike flux and heat scale prior to grinding and polishing. The reccomended water bath temp is at or above 160F. A sonic cleaner allows a lower concentration to be used so maybe I’ll get one someday. It’s pretty amazing stuff that completely removes the flux in a minute or less.
There are too much in my case. I do not know if I will succeed to remove all of it and to take this ring…
What you use to remove solder ? Solder wick ?
If I fail to remove all of it and not release the ring, it is good idea to solder driver directly on brass pill without a ring ?
All too malleable and yes it’s probably more for looks. They would need to be thicker and not annealed but at least they won’t stick out much past adjacent parts.
Yes. But the simplest way is to polish the copper and properly(thinly) applied lacquer should last… This is well known method for central heating pipes. They don’t oxidize after such treatment.
If they still use the same Nanjg driver then Biscotti will be perfect firmware for it. In order to have Bistro firmware you will need to swap the driver.
Just to echo that, yes, Biscotti is possible. Bistro is for attiny25, the included nanjg driver is attiny13a based.
Just pull out the pill. Unsoldered and carefully remove the led board (they used thermal adhesive). Push the wires into the pill. Using a small nail aimed outward toward the edge of the driver, give it a couple light taps and it should come out. They used a pressure-fit contact board that is connected to a floating nanjg driver. Good luck!
IMO I see nothing wrong with mentioning the ANSI standard throw numbers to the measured lux value. Using “usable distance” as a metric has no point because it is obviously going to be different for someone in Siberia compared to someone in New York City. There is a reason it is the ANSI standard - so that we can all compare equally around the world. It’s not perfect, but it is a standard that we can all use equally.
Using throw has its place because it is closer to how a non-flashaholic would rate a light - how powerful the light is scales close to linearly with how powerful it looks. Using kcd or lux is fine for flashaholics who understand the nuances of how that values is measured/calculated, but not real useful for the layperson who doesn’t know how light power scales exponentially.
edit:
On-topic: In B158 modding news, I used a dedomed SST-40 with FET driver and hit 270kcd. That was just quickly put together the other night, I don’t know yet if the SST-40 will be durable for long times with its low Vf and high amp draw. I tried chemical dedoming of an XP-L W2 for the first time last night, but it wasn’t clean and it left silicon remaining on the phosfor and didn’t hit high numbers compared to dedomed XM-L2 U4 and dedomed SST-40.