Ah, that makes sense. Newer chips are usually much more power-efficient. Given a driver with flashing vias, Iād love to play with a tiny841. Not sure what Iād do with all that space though, since the last thing I made barely comes to 1300 bytes.
I havenāt had a chance to try OTSM yet, but it sounds cool. Instead, the SRAM decay method has been working pretty well for long/short press detection, as long as Iām careful to check for partially-decayed data, and as long as one doesnāt mind rather short short-presses.
I couldnāt get the SRAM decay method working very well with the 85V. Things wouldnāt start to decay until about 4 or 5 seconds, making short vs long press duration checks pretty much useless. OTSM is so far the most accurate method Iāve used.
My first mod thread just went up yesterday. Iāve always enjoyed reading the mod threads around here, but never contributed one of my own. Well, now I have. Itās not much, but itās a start, I guess.
@ZozzV6,
Say, where did you get the premade a PD68 lighted tailcap board? I can find only the ones with 2 LEDs and built-in switch (from Kaidomain I think).
Itās certainly a pain to adjust the timing on the decay method. Itās probably just dumb luck that the components on a nanjg driver happen to give it a reasonably useful timing. With different values for any of its components it probably wouldnāt work. And then most of the BLF driver designs copied it, so the method continued working, mostly.
OTSM would definitely be more flexible and more accurate, given hardware capable of doing it.
I made myself. I think my english tricked you. I tried to say that I made the lighted board before the host arrive to just put them together when I get the host.
Found some copper pieces about 0.5mm thick and stacked them up to fill missing space.
Soldered them together, put some thermal paste and itās perfect now :+1:
This is my first light to break the 3k barrier for lumens
Really impressed on how it handles the heat. The spacer was a nice snug fit. Painted it with silver and the light can last almost 4-5 min before it gets too hot for me.
XPL HI V3-3C and Texas Avenger driver now inside
Narsil with full brightness when forward switch connects battery
a few days back I used my reverse lens adapter to make some nice makros
with a powerful flashlight light I got to F=18 16-35mm lens reversed on crop 1.6 DSLR
Made another Texas Avenger driver and reflo 3 Nichia leds from a Kaidomain triple to a Noctigon XP20 triple.
Before heating up. I like to see the small solder balls in the paste through microscope Fun to watch them melting together.
Anyone familiar with this driver? I took it out of the TrustFire ST-80 that is running SST-50 led. Goal is to change it to one mode only but I did not expected to bi so complicated.
Other part of the driver (not shown) has 2 mosfets K3638, sense resistors and a coil on itā¦