My sample still use the old green pcb.
Both driver seems okay, no grounded pin.
I’ll to buy several pieces again and make another try.
Yes, but what green driver is it? 105C, FX-12, or something else? Could you share a photo of yours or a link to what you’re buying?
The drivers taken from S2+, I change with A6 and like to play around and learn how to flashing new / different firmware with it.
One of them is like the pic.
TWN, that appears to be the FX-12 I’ve been asking about. If you flip it over, you’ll likely see “FX-12” in white print on the board. And if you look closely at your driver, you’ll notice the same grounding issue that TK pointed out. These are pretty much the same driver, just a different color.
Either swap out for a different driver (like the nanjg105c) or try cutting that trace to isolate pin5 of the MCU. I recently did the same exact thing with a driver from the S2+, cut the trace. But I found out that some of the components (the capacitor?) must be slightly different. The method being used to track fast presses (for advancing modes) kicked in around 1 second instead of 1/2 second. Anything shorter than that didn’t even register as a press. It was pretty strange. If you have easy access to drivers, I’d recommend ordering some of the 105c drivers. Fasttech has them at a good price, see here.
You can see the trace that is grounding pin5 of your mcu. You can try cutting around pin5 - make sure to cut all the way through the trace. Even if you end up ordering a 105c, this will allow you to test your clip in the meantime.
On mine, I managed to either cut the voltage divider’s trace or cook the resistor; not sure which. So, mine now has no LVP or battcheck and it takes forever for the SRAM to decay since it has no path to bleed off its charge. Oops. At least I finally got it to flash though. 
The nanjg/qlite drivers are much easier to deal with.
Thanks for the link, gchart. Appreciate. I already made couple of new USBASP yesterday, well, just in case.
About the drivers, I’ll consider it. For now, I just take some pictures, at least the 2 drivers I’ve taken out from the original flashlight to play.
Here the pictures, one show FX-12, the other just Convoy in the back of the driver.
And the zooming out of the MCU PIN as below:
However, to be frankly I don’t know what is the grounded trace between the mcu pin 5 and the other stuff. Is that the “darker green” on the pcb ?
Because what I thought so far about the ‘trace’ is only some soldering which connected between some part, not the ‘trace’ under layer pcb.
Thanks for all the help and information.
The trace is like a thin copper wire, most of which is covered up by “solder mask” to prevent accidental contact. It shows up as the lighter area.
I’m on my phone, but let me see if I can find something to sketch on your image with in a sec.
Thanks before. If the “lighter green”, just like shown by ToyKeeper, this picture?
So I need to cut like the yellow line?
Cut here
Edit: just follow this curve. Cutting where you have the yellow line won’t quite do the trick.
I get it know. But it doesn’t have to ‘rounded’ cut, right?
I can make 90 degree cut for the same purpose?
I’d like to try, but seems it’s more easy for me to make that way.
Thanks a lot, gchart!
Edit:
Okay, I try to make similar like this, just same as your sketch.
Yup, that works! Try keeping it close to the MCU pin. You don’t want to separate the resistor from the 7135. And if it doesn’t work after your first cut, go over it another time or two just to make sure it’s cut all the way through.
And no problem. Good luck and happy flashing!
For me a straight cut has worked best.
Thanks for the real example, Lopan. :sunglasses:
I try to flash driver but got error and not working driver as result. :cry:
Also tryed to flash original fw I saved from driver but same error.
Error
What I flash
What I read
Any advice?
Sorry, I don’t have any experience with that software. I use Linux for my building and flashing.
I apologize if you’ve done these already, but here’s a few questions to try and isolate the issue:
- Have you successfully flashed firmware using this same clip before?
- Have you successfully flashed firmware using this software before?
- Do you have another driver you can try?
- Have you tried going over the cut on the trace again just to make sure it’s fully cut? If you have a multimeter, set it to continuity check and make sure pin5 isn’t connected to ground.
It looks like probably a pin mismatch between the clip and the flashing device. That can allow flashing to appear like it’s working until the verification step.
- Yes
- Yes
- Not at the moment. Ordered.
- Yes. Tested and it’s not connected
Weird thing is I can write fuse settings and EEPROM and even erase chip, but when I write Flash i get mismatch.
Forget it. Tryed now with MVH AVR which newer worked for me before and it flashed it. :+1:
Maybe my PC has some problems I don’t know about. :person_facepalming:
Thank you for you help anyway.
I really like this thread, but I feel the numbering of the pins would be much easier if all the diagrams were consistent. There is no need to have different numbers in different diagrams for the same pins. I found this pretty confusing when trying to wire up the clip, and it took me a minute to realize the numbering was not consistent.
Also PLEASE add a note that if you use the wrong fuse #'s you will brick your board (Like I just did trying to flash my atiny25 version of the MTN board). The fuse values for atiny25 were not in the .c file but in the bin/flash-25.sh file http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk/view/head:/bin/flash-25.sh The values in the .c file appeared to be the same, I figured I would give it a go and just re-wipe the chip if something went wrong, I didn't know this was irreversible and would brick the board if you used the wrong values and thus I have bricked my driver. Boy do I feel stupid now!