I think he ment 68400 lux (cd) measured at 6m and calculated to 1m.
It will require a vice and heat but it is possible. I have done 6-7 now. I use an old leather belt with channel locks as a strap wrench. I oil the leather to keep it from ripping.
I have done it as well used wood to protect the light in my vise, best to put a snug fit protected battery in the tube, as you may overtighten it and ruin the tube
Then remove the switch cover and use wood and a smaller vise to twist on the head
heat up the connection between tube and head to about 100°C
from there its really easy to twist the head off
Ok, thanks for the tips. 100C with the cell inside?
Dont boil the light
Just focus with heat gun and narrow head or a small gas burner to the point where the glue is
The whole light with battery will heat up when settled maybe by 10K
I have unused zippo and rarely made fire with it, so I will turn it into real “light-er”.
This is initial mod, nothing fancy yet, battery must be detached to turn it off.
I will add reed/magnetic switch in the near future.
Cool idea! 
I made a Lumintop IYP365 nm…
SEE WHAT I DID THERE ? SEE THE JOKE ? AHAH ! I’M FUNNY ! :person_facepalming:
I used this LED from Ali and a ZWB2 glass from Simon’s store
Along with my UV collection :
I think, yes, but we will have to wait until my xhp50.2 arrive and see
Today i did yet another led swap in my Convoy M1, this time sliced XP-L2 V6 5000k led. It makes about 1500 lumens and 28500cd. To be honest i expected a bit more.
At least the beam is very nice, no green hue around the hotspot at all.
How much current is it getting?
How did you dedome it so cleanly?
A lot of current, 8.5A with VTC6 and a bit more with 25R. The led it is not fully dedomed, the dome is sliced of the led as close as possible to the die and also i scraped the phospor that was surrounding the die, all i used was just a sharp knife.
Swapped the driver in my Jaxman E2L for a DrJones H17F.
I tried swapping the star too, but that sucker is royally glued in. I think to get the star out I’ll need to drill a hole through the shelf and then use a hammer and chisel. That will reduce the available shelf-space, but is probably the only way to get it out. If I try that hopefully the tube near the bezel won’t collapse while I’m hammering.
I was not impressed with how the light performed with the FET driver. The head would get burning hot in seconds. And the H17F’s temperature regulation wasn’t kicking in fast enough. Even with AS5 thermal grease over part of the driver it still got way too hot.
This is the disadvantage of pill-less tube lights. They’re better at getting heat out of the LED than having a pill…. but that doesn’t help much if because of the lack of pill they get dangerously hot in seconds.
I can run this light at the second highest possible setting on the H17F driver without having it get too hot. (2nd FET setting). Output will dim quickly as temp regulation kicks in. However, this is still better than my cut-down S2+ which requires me to have turbo set at the 3rd highest setting (3 amps).
If you care to use the stock MCPCB of your E2L, you could try to reflow new leds with the MCPCB in place, by heating the complete head, at least that is how I did it. I had rather have the board out to make sure it was flat on the shelf with a thin layer of AS5 in between instead of an unknown gooey of unknown thickness, but as you say, there was no way to get the board out.
Today I swapped the 7 XP-G2 leds of my DQG26650tiny for Nichia 219C 3500K R9050 leds, and in the process managed to screw up the switch cover.
Ok, someone before me probably has taken the switch cover out as well, and found as well as me that no one in the world will get it back in, and probably even posted about it. But I managed to miss that. That ss ring around the switch appears press-fitting the rim of the switch cover and that is a one-way thing, once you pull out the cover it will not go back in the groove, And that ring will not move, may be glued as well. I finally got the cover in position without the rim in the groove, and by placing a steel ring (bottom ring clipped off a spring) behind it on the inside, which is held in place against the edge of the driver, all functions well. But I don’t think it will keep the water out if the light would get submerged. Rain should be fine.
Originally I planned to swap the leds with my new hot air reflow machine, but I wanted to have some experience with it before trying this 7-led swap. So I decided to postpone the hot air method and go for the hotplate method, with the gutted DQG head on top of a chunknof copper. Had to fire up the heatblock to 275degC to get the reflow done.
The beam is great, the tint can’t be better, it is just a pity that the switch cover never got back properly 
Was it not possible to get the MCPCB out, without removing the driver and switch cover?
I did not even try that, I must admit, after DBcustom’s report of failing to get it out. I could have had a go at it if I thought about it.
Thermal transfer foam might help, if you can fit some directly between the MCU and the back side of the MCPCB shelf. I finally got some and plan on trying it out soon while I make some new thermal regulation code. In theory, it should allow the driver to respond faster and more accurately compared to having an air gap between the MCU and the pill.
I should get some of that. It’s probably less messy and costly than trying to fill the area above the driver with AS5. :smiling_imp:
Now that Mountain Electronics has E2L hosts in, I ordered a couple. Better than trying to drill and hammer out the stock star. That white stuff they used to glue it down is STRONG!
Today flashed an S8 with Biscotti and added white lighted tailcap to it.