FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Well, the size of this light is still excellent, under 95mm.

I will buy at least one for sure.

We are talking to a Chinese party. Cannot say more for now.

Driver is needed close to the LED for the thermal regulation of Narsil to do its job, though a driver in the tail is clever indeed :slight_smile:

I agree.
I set out to mod it but i have put it aside for later…

Yeah, it’s a shame they didn’t use a metal PCB (alu or copper), that would have solved the heat problem it has.
But when you put a triple in it, you gain space for a MCPCB on the shelf.
And since this thing here has a triple set up, i thought it might be just as short as the DQG.

I was post #14 and you did not put me on the list………………

“No Soup For You”

Great looking light, and design. Please add me to the list.

Please put me up for one…

This is really going to be a multilingual enterprise. I guess 3 languages is 36 times more challenging than 2 languages.

At my age you want lumens. If there is to be a CW version, put me on the list for one.

The add-on in my eyes automatic translates CW to other parts of the spectrum. :sunglasses:
To compensate for my eye-sight I have certain other means of perception.
In my crystall ball I can see versions with wood tubes (RBD) and carbon tubes (CRX) due to the double tube.

PS: Please hit the “rude”-button if I (mis)quote lines from popular UK made TV-series.

I know who said that :person_facepalming:

I would like one. Please put me on the list. Thanks

just checked my balance, too bad, i’m so broken
i need an oscilloscope instead of 1 more light :person_facepalming:

I’ll take 2 please.

Please add me in for 1

Don’t know who said it but sure not right I missed you Stittville, will correct it next time list gets updated, sorry.

I know, I’m probably too much the technical perfectionist (or anal or something) but…

The tail cap is not meant to be taken off to change the cell, so why does it have knurling on it? With the design calling for the tube to be removed for a cell change the tube itself should have knurling to make it easier to take the sections apart. Right? Then that little groove on the tail cap could be left solid so the threads would be that much stronger.

I’m saying this because of the square threads at the head and the retaining ring on the driver. There are normal weaker threads on the tail cap and no retaining ring on the switch PCB, hence, battery swap through the top.

Is this something that can be addressed?

I’m so forgetful I’d forever and always be removing the tail cap to get to the cell, like all the other lights I own.

That’s a very good reason.

It would be great if there were some Nichia options, as I have little interest in the XP-G3. I’m interested either way though; I can change the emitters myself.

I can not else but love it? Well done Fritz!

The clear ano would not be my idea, and it will have huge problems running on the FET (15+ amps, on XP-G3 while 3A is sensible for a skinny light like this and already gives lots of light), but still I’m in wholeheartedly. :slight_smile:

Put me up for one, thanks.

I would like 1

1 for me please :slight_smile:

That is a good idea and I thought briefly about it but was not comfortable with the Battery+ being so close to Battery- (the microcontroller for example needs a connection to Battery+). In case of a short between the two tubes (for whatever reason) you’d fry the battery. With the current design the worst thing that happens is that the light gets turned on and you still can operate it by loosening and tightening the head.