The illumination is way lower than moon or firefly. If it’s normal, it’s not a bad way for me to tell if I have turned tailswitch off, since I don’t have illum switches.
v1.2 has low voltage protection, but no temp control. If you do have temp control, then you have v1.4 and no lvp.
I understood it that tail switch modes had to be programmed into the firmware. They are not user adjusted. Lexel told me it was a few lines of code that had to be altered to get the tactical setting.
I specified temperature control, and they were marked as such, so I guess it is V1.4.
I misunderstood those tail switch options as being user defined. Turbo is the only way to have a momentary function, so its not bad in that respect. And a quick click of the side switch turns it off.
Looking across my acreage, I can quick scan a lot of ground in momentary mode in a second or two with it.
The ramping is awesome, and a lot more user friendly to fine tune the levels than I expected.
The faint LED could be an Infineon vs SIR800 difference, guess we’ll see.
There’s only one 7135 on there so it looks pretty easy to swap out. Maybe you have an old driver you don’t need that you can strip a 7135 off of. If not, MTN Electronics sells them super cheap.
I actually have a stip of 7135’s, just have to get some more practice in before attempting. I think dealing with these itty bitty parts is how I messed up my original driver (resistor mod), total noob, and not steady 63 yr old hands. BTW, there’s 8 7135 on one side and the single on the other….???
Oh yeah, post #102 shows the backside. So 9 in total. I wish I knew how to narrow it down to find the faulty one.
Removing all of them and cleaning the pads is not too hard, but soldering new ones would be a pain by hand. You’d need a hot air reflow station and solder paste to do it quick and easy.
Its some pretty bad luck. If you really want to fix it, maybe ask Richard at MTN if he could do it.
Package delivered today. I’ll force myself to wait for the solder station I ordered that’s scheduled for delivery wednesday before starting on the lvp mods for the 2s light but will install one as-is in the D01. I’ve been searching for another grey D01 but the major sources are out of stock so it will remain 1s3p until I find another, make a 2s battery tube, or cut and extend the 1s tube.
For you guys with L6’s and who want to know when your rear switch is on and off as well as more easily find the side switch in the dark, then check out this thread starting at post 265.
I try my best to describe how to make a lighted side switch that comes on when the tail switch is on. It’s handy whenever you have a driver that can turn the flashlight on and off with the side switch.
I haven’t installed my TA driver yet, but I have the pads labeled where you would connect the switch and led power. I’ll be confirming all this soon.
2 decently bright leds caused a 0.4 milliamp drain. I use my light for brief blasts here and there at work and the tail switch stays on roughly 40 hours per week, then I recharge the batteries. This extra drain has no effect at all for me.
Now sitting on a shelf with the tail switch on for months at a time I’m sure would drop your battery voltage. Then again, if it’s going to sit and not be used, then turn the tail switch off. Duh. Lol
Amp draw while on standby was 0.48 milliamps. About 0.4 of that is the LEDs I added. So the driver itself is only about 0.08 milliamps. That’s lower than I expected. My Kaidoman version FX30 driver had a 1.45 milliamp draw all by itself.
Installed one of the narsil TA drivers into my skilhunt h03 tonight. Every thing is working great, except for the indicator led which I’m sure is user error. I’ll open it up later and figure out what I did wrong.
Thanks lexel for putting these together. They all look great. Now I got a few more projects to keep me busy for a little while.