Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

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BrianK
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Sorry, I could have been more explicit. I only meant were the design specs met on the copper LED board? Not the actual measurement.

Tom E
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BrianK wrote:
Sorry, I could have been more explicit. I only meant were the design specs met on the copper LED board? Not the actual measurement.

Yes! Only design spec changes we asked for from round #2 was width and diameter:

  • Old width was 1.2 mm, new is 2.07 mm (yes was a typo - "King Typo" stuff smile)
  • old diameter was 36 mm, new diameter is 38 mm
The Miller
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OOPS indeed 2.07mm
More info on stock Q8
ledboard
2.07mm thick
38.05mm OD
right amount of thermal paste, evenly, not too little and not too much
integrated shelf stripped of ano where the ledboard sits, nice

Thickness integrated shelf 5.85mm

BrianK
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Thanks! The end is looking closer with every passing day.

djozz
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Some Q8 proto3 experiences:

I had proto3 with me on a school trip to Amerongen and took it on a night walk to some prehistorical grave hills. An I must say that apart from it being quite a chunk of a light, it is an enormous pleasure to use: tons of light with quite some throw, despite the 5000+ lumen it does not get hot anytime fast, in the open air (21 degC, it was a warm night) after 5 minutes it still is not too hot to hold, the operation is logical and smooth. Here's two beam shots in the woods (one of these i already posted abovem thanks to khas):

This morning I took the light apart:

I did not disassemble the switch.

 

Some things I found:

*the ledboard shelf is not extremely flat, but considering the enormous contact area and the board being screwed down it works more than fine:

*the holes in the ledboard and in the shelf do not line up completely, but the screws are a bit narrower than the ledboard holes so they screw down smoothly anyway. You can see that the leds are reflowed in the middle of their solder pads (more about that later):

*where the ledboard got hot from soldering (or from my rather hot de-soldering sealed ), the traces delaminate from the ledboard base (they bubble up near the solder blobs), I expect this not to be a functional issue, but it is not great of course. Also at one of the sides of the board the solder mask curls up a bit. In this picture you can also see the nice fat traces on the board:

For fun a picture of the double springs:

After this, I re-assembled the light and I found that when I press the reflector down with the glass lens while screwing tight the screw on the underside, I actually centered the leds a bit better than how I got the light. Centering is still not perfect because the solder pads on the ledboard do not align fully with the holes in the reflector (this is a bad thing and we noticed this before but we are not going to make a deal of it because the beam is fine like this):

Finally I did an output measurement with the partly depleted 30Q cells. They were 3.9V which is close to halfway full and the voltage is quite steady at that point. The output of the Q8 I expect to be as steady as it gets now:

After switch on:

3 seconds: 5300 lumen

30 seconds: 5085 lumen

120 seconds: 4958 lumen.

So after 2 minutes we are still at over 90% of the initial output, sounds good to me!

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

mutts13
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I am interested in one as well

ryukin2000
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djozz wrote:

Some Q8 proto3 experiences:


I had proto3 with me on a school trip to Amerongen and took it on a night walk to some prehistorical grave hills. An I must say that apart from it being quite a chunk of a light, it is an enormous pleasure to use: tons of light with quite some throw, despite the 5000+ lumen it does not get hot anytime fast, in the open air (21 degC, it was a warm night) after 5 minutes it still is not too hot to hold, the operation is logical and smooth. Here’s two beam shots in the woods (one of these i already posted abovem thanks to khas)

Finally I did an output measurement with the partly depleted 30Q cells. They were 3.9V which is close to halfway full and the voltage is quite steady at that point. The output of the Q8 I expect to be as steady as it gets now:


After switch on:


3 seconds: 5300 lumen


30 seconds: 5085 lumen


120 seconds: 4958 lumen.


So after 2 minutes we are still at over 90% of the initial output, sounds good to me!

Thanks for the Pics. excited to have one of these.

dekozn
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Thanks for all the pics, this is great Thumbs UpLove

Don’t know if this has been discussed before but are there any tir optics that would fit the Q8 without to much modding?

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Hello Jos,

What size have the screws of the tailcap board? Is this M3 or smaller?
I think they should be M3 at least.

Delaminating traces are not verry nice. I hope thats why you used too much heat.

Thanks for the pictures. I want to have this flashlight as soon as possible. Wink

djozz
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I’m away for the weekend now, the screws are M2 I’m guessing, but perhaps one of the other prototype people can confirm.

I’m not sure how much harm the loose traces can do, Tom mentioned (and I have experienced that too) that the KD DTP-boards do that too. It is certainly a concern that we will communicate to Thorfire. Is there anyone who has experienced functionality loss or danger from the delaminating of KD boards yet?

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

Texas_Ace
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The biggest issue with the traces de-laminating are first that without the heat sinking they could overheat, although they are pretty beefy so this should not be a big issue.

The second possible issue is they could possibly short out against the mcpcb base since the substrate is obviously not that great.

Although this could just be due to a bad manual reflow where they overheated the mcpcb, I have done this before. In which case with a proper production run where a reflow oven is used, this should not be an issue, hopefully.

hank
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Quote:
the holes in the ledboard and in the shelf do not line up completely, but the screws are a bit narrower than the ledboard holes so they screw down smoothly anyway.

That would mean that only half the threads are actually engaging with the holes, leaving it very easy to strip by overtightening.
Just thinking about eventually modding when better LEDs are available, it’d be better if the parts lined up correctly.
They need to align them using a jig, not hand-drilling.

Wieselflinkpro
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I have reflowed some kd-board and did not had any issue.
But with very high overheating I had this on a sinkpad. Or I had Problems with a Nitecore EC4S.

If you dont want to overheat the MCPCB by soldering, use a good soldering iron with external soldering top. I have good experiences with the following: https://www.amazon.de/Ersa-0920BD-L%C3%B6tkolben-Multitip-230V/dp/B0009Q...
It is classes better than my former soldering irons.

DavidEF
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hank wrote:
Quote:
the holes in the ledboard and in the shelf do not line up completely, but the screws are a bit narrower than the ledboard holes so they screw down smoothly anyway.

That would mean that only half the threads are actually engaging with the holes, leaving it very easy to strip by overtightening.
Just thinking about eventually modding when better LEDs are available, it’d be better if the parts lined up correctly.
They need to align them using a jig, not hand-drilling.


There are no threads in the LED board, so no problem there. I don’t recall anyone mentioning the threads in the shelf being loose at all. As long as the screw has a snug fit in the threads of the shelf, and the head of the screw holds down on the LED board, all is well. Wink

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

djozz
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Correct David, the board is clamped in well and tight. Actually, I tightened all screws more than Thorfire did. I even think (imagine) that the better clamped tailboard boosted output a bit. 20A is a b*tch for any connection!

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

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The Miller wrote:

The $8.50 solution, liked to in this topic many times:

Note that I thought I had silver spraypaint but it was a very light grey and is not reflective, when I come around to it I’ll buy silver reflective paint to have the big diffuser shine more sideways.

So far the best coating/paint i tested for lantern diffusers (to reflect & disperse a flashlights focused beam) is flat/satin white on the opposite end of the diffuser. it reflects the most of the output compared to silver, chrome, or even shiny white paints. One trick to make the flood of the diffuser warmer tint is to use an “off-white” or cream flat/satin/matte color paint if diffusing a cool white flashlight.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

The Miller
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Talk about preoccupied.
I was baking the Q8 this afternoon when a storm broke
Hail and thunder
So I get outside to protect a very small olive tree and when I came back in it was raining inside.
A tile or probably even a few must have been broken by the hail.
And a beam guided water Creating a nice waterfall
And below that beam, my notebook, soldering iron, box with Q8 parts.
Dang dang dang.

Quickly to the shop to get rice and roof tiles
Notebook in a bag with a kilo of rice.

And a sloppy fast assembly … Oh will it work, yes light!
So rest asure the Q8 lives!
(Not able to upload pics or edit OPs till my notebook is dry Wink )

The Miller
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Ah and M4DM4X has started an action for cells
Here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54513

NKON has a guy in Helmond add the buttons, and Dutch labor is expensive so I bet Martin has a better price.
Thanks Martin!

The Miller
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DBSAR wrote:
The Miller wrote:

The $8.50 solution, liked to in this topic many times:

Note that I thought I had silver spraypaint but it was a very light grey and is not reflective, when I come around to it I’ll buy silver reflective paint to have the big diffuser shine more sideways.

So far the best coating/paint i tested for lantern diffusers (to reflect & disperse a flashlights focused beam) is flat/satin white on the opposite end of the diffuser. it reflects the most of the output comared to silver, chrome, or even shiny white paints. One trick to make the flood of the diffuser warmer tint is to use an “off-white” or cream flat/satin/msatte color paint if diffusing a cool white flashlight.


That is awesome I have several white toned spray paint cans, so will add a layer or two tobtge now translucent grey, thanks!
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The Miller wrote:
Talk about preoccupied.
I was baking the Q8 this afternoon when a storm broke
Hail and thunder
So I get outside to protect a very small olive tree and when I came back in it was raining inside.
A tile or probably even a few must have been broken by the hail.
And a beam guided water Creating a nice waterfall
And below that beam, my notebook, soldering iron, box with Q8 parts.
Dang dang dang.

Quickly to the shop to get rice and roof tiles
Notebook in a bag with a kilo of rice.

And a sloppy fast assembly … Oh will it work, yes light!
So rest asure the Q8 lives!
(Not able to upload pics or edit OPs till my notebook is dry Wink )

Sorry to hear about your indoor waterfall. Hope the rain stops soon so you can fix it.

TLC told you not to go chasing waterfalls. (Ugh, sorry. I had to.)

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The Miller wrote:
… it was raining inside.
And a beam guided water Creating a nice waterfall
And below that beam, my notebook, soldering iron, box with Q8 parts.
Dang dang dang.

Somebody call a digital doctor!
Anyone know how to do CPR on a computer?
Or, anyone know who to call for a little techno-necromancy?
I hope the ghost will stay in the machine.
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Oh Miller (or should i say Molenaar? Wink )
Lucky you! Must have been a nasty storm, but luckily your notebook and the Q8 survived!

Now time for some home improvement Smile

Thijsco19 wrote:

a regular symptom of flasholism Big Smile

“Flasholism is the most severe form of flashlight use and involves the inability to manage your flashlight use habits. It is also commonly referred to as flashlight use disorder. Flashlight use disorder is organized into three categories: mild, moderate and severe. Each category has various symptoms and can cause harmful side effects. If left untreated, any type of flashlight use can spiral out of control.”

The Miller
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Heheh notebook not clear, I let it sit in the bag.
It is a 17” that is easy to take apart so I’m sure it’ll work or I get it going again if not.

Q8 is fine that is good!

And well did do a leak in a lower placed roof a while back, this shows its time to check all.
Also that ugly satellite dish on thw high roof needs to go, it messes up the beamshots Big Smile

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hank wrote:
Quote:
the holes in the ledboard and in the shelf do not line up completely, but the screws are a bit narrower than the ledboard holes so they screw down smoothly anyway.

That would mean that only half the threads are actually engaging with the holes, leaving it very easy to strip by overtightening.
Just thinking about eventually modding when better LEDs are available, it’d be better if the parts lined up correctly.
They need to align them using a jig, not hand-drilling.


If your worried about stripping thd threads you can get some longer screws and maybe some metal washers for the top to spread the load better.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices

djozz
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JasonWW wrote:
hank wrote:
Quote:
the holes in the ledboard and in the shelf do not line up completely, but the screws are a bit narrower than the ledboard holes so they screw down smoothly anyway.

That would mean that only half the threads are actually engaging with the holes, leaving it very easy to strip by overtightening.
Just thinking about eventually modding when better LEDs are available, it’d be better if the parts lined up correctly.
They need to align them using a jig, not hand-drilling.


If your worried about stripping thd threads you can get some longer screws and maybe some metal washers for the top to spread the load better.

Or even longer screws and nuts under the shelf. But hey, the screw holes are ok! Smile

link to djozz tests 

“I used to think that top environmental problems were biodiversity loss, ecosystem collapse and climate change. I thought that thirty years of good science could address these problems. I was wrong. The top environmental problems are selfishness, greed and apathy, and to deal with these we need a cultural and spiritual transformation. And we scientists don’t know how to do that.”   (Gus Speth)

ToyKeeper
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The Miller wrote:
Notebook in a bag with a kilo of rice.

FWIW, I’ve had pretty good results from placing a notebook in front of a fan or a space heater for several hours. Haven’t tried the rice method.

However, I also live in a pretty dry place. In a humid area, a fan might not be very effective without heat.

Jtm94
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Rice is phenomenal for phone saving. It’s definitely effective.

BrianK
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Speaking of which… how deep is the hole/thread in the Q8? I want to get some threaded d-rings for slung use.

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“Anyone know how to do CPR on a computer?”

Sort off, have been building my own computers, and overclocking them since a 700 MHZ cpu was like “ OMG who need so much calculating power”

But i have never worked on a laptop, in my small circle we tend to agree laptops are for students and kids. Big Smile

Still have my dualcore AMD machine as it was one of the Opteron CPUs named Denmark, and the 1700 MHZ coy did / do 2500 MHZ with ease.
Always nice to have a fallback,,,, computer

Also have parts to build a 3.0 GHZ Northwood quadcore machine, just to be on the safe side of things.

Okay i have not done overclocking for a while now, dont seem to be needed and i have other things to use my past time on.

ToyKeeper
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sparkyDK wrote:
“Anyone know how to do CPR on a computer?”

Sort of…


It was a rhetorical question. Wink

Sounds like he’s got everything under control… except the roof. I hope the roof won’t be too much of a pain to fix.

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