One reason is I doubt you would see a difference with a spring bypass. You would only measure a bit higher.
Another reason is that it would probably have to be done by hand and that adds to assembly time which adds to cost.
Double springs were chosen over bypass wires for the above reasons. Performance should be very close. It’s definitely better than just single springs.
Tracerfire, I’m not going to get this 100% accurate, but I’ll get close…
In industry it’s a given that 90% of issues can be addressed relatively imexpensively, the other 10% are solved much more expensively. This light achieves over 90% IMO, and does it inexpensively. But that was achieved by the volunteers on the team keeping costs down (in more than one way). When it involves anything but volunteer labor from the team that becomes purchased labor and costs go up. Some things can be done relatively inexpensively, and other things drive up the cost. The goal was an excellent light for $40 shipped. I know you weren’t knocking the light or anything else, but when one figures out what this light is and that it was accomplished for $40 shipped, that’s just amazing!
Tom, in looking at the coated lenses I saw the difference in thickness also and was going to ask about potential problems. Thanks for beating me to it! I think I’ll just live with the stock lens. Frankly, I’m not planning on doing anything to the light at all.
MrsDNF, OK, don’t go swimming with it, but it would be OK in the rain like any other quality LED light? I just want to make it clear for my pea brain. I think that’s what I got from your statement regarding sealing. (About the water, not my pea brain )
Yes the goal was a good SRK like light with nice LEDs, BLF software, square threads connecting tube and head so it can be used for a long time.
Then the 4000 lumens were specified
And we have reached these goal and beyond.
A big copper DTP ledboard was a mere dream, lighted switch was ditched from specs to save costs yet TF did it, double springs, tripod hole…
This switch is neat, the rubber translucent part is both to press on but it is shaped in such a way the ring holding it presses on a part below it so it acts as waterproofing as well, yorlur typical SRK switch has a loose metal button and is much less capable of resisting water.
Good news, roof is fixed, needed to replace 2 tiles, saw a cracked one a couple of meters away so in the end replaced 7 tiles and it should be good now. Since I was up there and had some shards I could also clean the top of the chimney pipe and concrete slab that acts as roof for it. So got rid of a lot of creosote, nice!
For cost and weight reasons, I plan to use either one or two of my existing 4.35V LG cells, instead of buying another 4 new cells. I hope the max brightness doesn’t suffer too much.
I just built a small light with a large emitter that required opening the emitter hole in the existing reflector so the reflector could sit all the way down onto the substrate. This effectively lowered the reflector approx 1mm. I solved this by removing the wire from a 20ga Turnigy wire leaving the empty silicone sleeve and then using this like an o-ring between the lens and bezel to, in effect, act like a spring to push the reflector down and keep the lens from rattling. Water sealing is from an o-ring on top of the reflector, between it and the lens, so this Turnigy sleeve is there only to make up the difference.
Easy to do, effective, and inexpensive.
I have some idea’s about boosting output on this light that I will implement and see what shakes once the light arrives.
Blinker you can up your order to as many as you want. Eventually no one will be able to do that at the $40 price, but they’ll be available at full retail. But that time isn’t now.
When the time comes you’ll be sent an e-mail with instructions telling you how to order. There’s more to it than that, but it’ll all be made plain when the time comes.
Yes Brian explains it well
A link and code will be in the PM people on the list receive
We don’t know what price will be after the groupbuy, we don’t know how many runs will be made (I hope a lot) but I do know the first mass production run is going to be based on the amount spoken for on the list
There is no limited amount people can ask for now, there will be a system of several codes with limited use later which combined with trust that people order the amount they asked for should make it all work fine.
My first reaction was to say that you can just ask to be placed on the list again but it is all good, if people want more then they order initially the chance of TF seeing there is a demand thus making more gets bigger
Personal Message, like email but within the forum.
The Miller has all of us that have expressed an interest in buying one or more of these lights divided up in groups. He will send a link to make the purchase (as well as the coupon code to lock in the price) to groups of us at a time, in order to make it more efficient to “email” 1300+ people. When the lights are ready, we will be notified, and it will be up to us to only buy the one or two or whatever we spoke up for.
It’s amazing sometimes seeing people’s preferences for tint. There were a couple cheap zoomies laying around which appeared to have a 1-something and 0-something emitter, respectively. My sister liked it and snagged one, and she chose the 0-something tint because it looked brighter.
I can’t even call a 0 tint “white” any more. It’s so blue I’ve been tempted to use one to make an “ice blue” light saber.
Also, given a choice between a Nichia 219b 4500k 92CRI light and a XP-G2 ~5700K light (NW and CW L3 L10), she chose the XP-G2. Same reason.
OTOH, my mother filled her house with 2700K bulbs and doesn’t like 5000K bulbs. Everything there looks yellow to me.
I guess I’m the odd one out because I like daylight tints, 4500-5000K.