pardon if this was covered, but - simple question:
does it cutoff when the cell voltage gets too low?
does it also let non-rechargeables go all the way to 0V?
(the old XTAR WK42 did this, when you put in a new cell, it looks at voltage and decides if this is rechargeable or not. if it is, then it cuts off at at 2V or so. otherwise it lets non-rechargeable go all the way to 0V)
this light [i got one] is good enough for the price
i was annoyed at myself though
i thought it had L M H for some reason
instead it is like all super cheap lithium-ion-capable lights - H L BlinkyUseless.$#$#$&%&
oh well
my bad
not sure why i thought it was H M L
(is it so expensive to do L M H?
if i am using a tiny battery, i don;t want to use H or M unless necessary
what about HML for AAA lights, they all seem to be one level except lumintop, who annoyingly does M L H)
—this is what i reviewed it, on aliexpress:
——
it is pretty good for the low price - LED color is cool white, nice whitish tint - no purple or green - always starts on HIGH, i would rather it start on LOW, - i don’t like strobe mode at all but the cheap ones always have it - light is well made, good quality, i think it is probably waterproof just not for diving - it does not produce 300 lumens with a CR123 battery - probably needs 16340 li- ion for that - pattern is ok, has a hot spot in center, with some usable spill - it COULD be shorter with a TIR optic, instead of reflector and glass- overall GOOD FOR THE PRICE….
—-
I put a 4000K Nichia E21AT sm403-D200-M1-R9080 in it with a 30° (i think) pebbled TIR on a single mode boost driver (for CR123A) at around 2.5 Watts (estimate) and it’s just lovely.
I replaced the switch though, because it was horrible…
I used a Ledlink TIR from member kiriba-ru. (i had to reduce the diameter though)
But i have a growing collection of TIRs because i just buy some here and there sometimes so that i usually have something useful in stock.
Could be, wle.
But i had an identical one (form another light) and it was just as bad. I threw both in the trash…
I put one of these in there in stead: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Flashlight-reverse-switch/1572591646.html
They’re my favourite reverse clicky switches.
I had to file down the corners a little to make them fit, and then i soldered it on a modified 15mm board with a spring.
I also used a better suited switch boot.
So in all more extra work i didn’t anticipate, but i guess that’s the hobby…
So, i ordered another one and i got it in the mail today.
There’s no more stainless steel bezel, it’s anodized aluminium now…
Bummer huh? :weary:
The glass lens seems to be thicker, it’s very thick, because the alu bezel is less deep…
It did come in a color printed cardboard box this time, matte finish with glossy brand name embossed, but i would have preferred a simple bubble wrap and a SS bezel and no expensive box…